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It will heat and cool differently depending whether it is melting filament. So it overshoots when pre-heating. If you tuned that out then it would be sluggish while printing; not what you want. But yes, the closer you can get it to working temperature before starting the print, the better. Except th...

PID is not going to affect the target temperature. It can do. The proportional element is proportional to the error. So the higher output you need, the higher error you are going to get. To correct that you use the Integral component. That has an increasing output as the error continues to have the...

Well one error was having the letters protrude 0.2mm below the rest, which obviously was printed without support. *blush* I've just printed one at half diameter. It printed well on clean glass with some variation across X-YZ. No this isn't the HE280. Probably still some levelling to do of the order ...

There is a huge thermal resistance between two objects just touching each other. You need to appy some pressure and preferably some insulation around them. Is there a good reason that nobody suggests IR gun-type thermometers? Maybe the active region is too large or the surface has the wrong emissivi...

That sounds like you have a font issue. It should be possible to configure Chrome to use a specific font instead of the one a web page mandates. People trying this who are not in the USA may have an issue with getting WiFi working. The WiFi standard allows different radio channels in different parts...

It's probably primarily a bed bonding issue. Plain, clean glass has worked well for smaller objects with solid bases, including one 90x60mm. But those long stretches of filament didn't stick and were being pulled off the bed. I think I have the Z height calibrated, but I haven't calibrated either th...

I think I have a way to go with my calibration circle

[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/966 ... 0x1000.jpg[/img]

KISSslicer is confusing. I am currently playing with the settings/files you provided but without a good guide (not the PDF) its poke and prod. If you are refering to the quick-start guide on the web-site, you might like to learn that there is a much fuller and up-to-date draft manual on their forum...

I do not know if SeeMeCNC quietly changed the casting die patterns for the red tensioner piece or not. Immediately after I bought my Orion, SeeMeCNC sent me a replacement of that red tensioner arm. I hadn't asked for it and there was no documentation saying why they sent it. I haven't had the coura...

I believe that is the power supply in my (new) Orion. It's the right shape anyway and the voltage selector is on the bottom (and accessed through a hole in the base.) Which matches this one.

Check your wiring harness; that's what is stressed when the Z height changes. It might be as simple as unplugging all the connectors and plugging them in again or one of them might not be fully inserted.

Please keep us informed. I also have an Orion that I'm keen to put a HE280 on when my funds have recoved and I'm more comfortable fiddling with the printer. Pedantic note: amperes are abreviated to "A". There is a unit that is abreviated to "a", it's the are: an area of 100 squar...

I'm an extreme newbie here, so I might be missing something, but I'm an embedded software engineer by trade. If it's dropping to room temperature as soon as printing starts, but it works again immediately afterwards to preheat, then it almost certainly isn't a resistor and it definitely isn't a ther...

Thanks for the replies.

Would this be caused by a significantly bad calibration of a single axis? Because there's a good chance one of the towers is/was not hitting its limit switch.

Has anyone experimented using infrared webcams or the Pi NOIR camera for monitoring thebuild? I'm not thinking of measuring the temperature as such, just that it would be nice to see something of the temperature changes as the build progresses alongside the timelapse or live-stream. Checking the phy...

You could put put a few 1N4001 or similar silicon diodes in series with your LED strips to reduce the voltage back to 12V. +1 around 0.7V drop for each diode, forward biased, of course. Depending on how the LED strips work, you might get more life out of them by running them under-voltage. LEDs use...

The location of the voltage switch has changed. It is now on the underside of the printer.

There is now a IEC mains socket and USB B socket on the caseing.

Together these now mean there is no need to open any panel, installing the LCD is all that is required.

I can take pictures if required.

Any ideas what's causing this? [img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/96640124/20160924_153916.jpg[/img] The filler isn't reaching the outlines, and there seems to be some distortion to the outlines. The printer is an Orion. The filament is the PLA shipped with the printer. I'm using MatterControl...