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Are you using repetier? If so, there is an EXT0 option that let's you specify a pin to be turned on when the extruder is turned on. I'm not sure if it's accessible through eprom settings.

My 1.2 has the pluggable terminal block. I had bought it directly from UltiMachine with the intent of updating my H1-1 to 16X microstepping, but instead purchased a RostockMax kit and stuck it in there. My 1.1 Rambo that came with the RostockMax has the terminal strip. I assumed the on-board termin...

I'm sure the have inventory to work through. I purchased my 1.2 directly from UltiMachine. My Rostock MAX came with a 1.1 also... so now I have a spare.

My 1.2 has the pluggable terminal block. I had bought it directly from UltiMachine with the intent of updating my H1-1 to 16X microstepping, but instead purchased a RostockMax kit and stuck it in there. My 1.1 Rambo that came with the RostockMax has the terminal strip. I assumed the on-board termina...

UltiMachine has confirmed removal of the jumper for the logic power select on Rambo 1.2. For those who did not get the correct documentation with their Rambo, the correct link is below.

https://github.com/ultimachine/RAMBo/bl ... f?raw=true

Thanks, will try the JST for the hot end. The primary connectors are the same including the required headers for the smart controller. Some of the auxiliary/specialty pins have moved around a bit. The bolt hole pattern is the same. From an assembly guide perspective, the logic power select is the on...

It looks like Rambo 1.2 dropped the logic power jumper option. I'm assuming it's now pulling power only from the mains instead of the USB port. I've got a support request into UltiMachine to verify. Might be worth noting in the documentation. Also, an recommendations for a hot end connector somewher...

I ran into the same issue. I just shaved down the short edges of the tabs as needed. I would avoid touching the widths of the tabs (.25") if at all possible and leave those snug in that direction. I left the Tri-Supports alone, as they set tower locations and hold them perpendicular. I only adj...

An option prior to paint is to seal the edges with a dewaxed shellac. It won't swell the MDF and helps keep the moisture out. The quick way to apply it is to immerse the whole part and quickly wipe it off the melamine. Old cotton rags work best. This completely saturates the edges quickly. Any remai...

Looking forward to seeing the end result. I've been working on a design for a enclosed delta based around seemecnc parts. After calculating out print time on my old h1-1 to be over 120 hours, I cried uncle and just ordered a new Rostock MAX with the intention of adding an enclosure mod. I'm trying t...

How about using a dryer vent to control the air flow direction? It would help keep the cold out and I would think a little bit of static pressure would help stabilize and slow the air flow.

It's aluminum that I machined out of bar on the lathe down to a .38" diameter.

I think nylon spacers, hard wall copper tubing, hobby tubing, etc could be used as well.

Great suggestion adding the .062 aluminum plate.

Has the plate done anything to limit the maximum obtainable temperature or only better distributes it? I'm struggling a bit to reach temp with my H1.

Thanks,
Craig

My Steve's extruder had been running along happily for awhile until I notice the dreaded extruder squeak other members have encountered. After a close look, it was apparent that the side walls near the thru bolt had collapsed inward and there was no tension on the bolt itself. This pitched the gear ...

The link below contains pictures for my endstop configuration. https://plus.google.com/photos/104481479716946411043/albums/5835639556518418289 I have mine configured for all of the axis to home at the max position. For the y-axis, you should be able to use one of the extra 90 degree bar clamps that ...

I tried the Monokote on glass a couple of days with even better results then the polycarbonate. I ran the bed at 90C and got good adhesion, but still easy enough to remove easily with damage to the part or Monokote with a putty knife. It gives the bottom of the printed part a very nice glossy surfac...

I just ran my first large print on my H1 using some polycarbonate from Mendards with good success. It was .095 thick. The next best so far has been the green "Frog Tape" on glass, but I was having difficulty getting the first layer to stick. I got not get Blue painters tape to work at all....

I switched over to a stock Marlin firmware and problem solved.

Not sure what the issue with Repetier is. I also noticed that temperature control / PID is more better in that it does not overshoot and it is much steadier.

I switch to stock Marlin firmware this morning and everything works out of the box with Rambo.

It polls the heated bed temperature from the correct input and turns on the correct heated bed output.

I am struggling with Z-Axis moments on a new H-1.1 build. I am using Rambo with the https://github.com/johnoly99/Repetier-for-rambo firmware. It am also using Repetier Host. End stops are set at maximum position for all axis. The end stops are wired per the Rostock max directions with wires connecte...

I agree the probability of a blown fuse is high if using the 2nd extruder output. I was using the firmware from https://github.com/johnoly99/Repetier-for-rambo . I ended up making some modifications so that it turned on the heated bed output and would read the temperature at the 3rd port instead of ...

Splooshy,

Have you found the solution? I am running into the exact same issue. The output and temp sensor connections that Repetier host turns on is for the 2nd extruder instead of the heated bed connections.

Thanks,
Craig