Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Netfabb is pretty easy. I've attached the archived free installer (since pulled from the website, but it should still work). I've done some stuff with it, as well as using Maya and Fusion 360 for similar tasks, but Netfabb is way easier to just split things.

Reg, I'd like to point out that not only did you necro the thread (more than 1.5 years old), but that backing up to the same hard-drive, while useful against accidental deletions, and bad blocks (that many modern filesystems can correct reasonably well.), is typically useless against malware, hardwa...

If you are indeed getting 12v across the fuse, then yes, it's an issue with the fuse. Fuses aren't always visibly blown, especially ceramic and thermal fuses. As for 1, well, if you look at your picture, the knob should be on the left side, underneath the V adjust I think you're still confused a bit...

If by heater, you mean the thing on the hotend that wires go into, there shouldn't be anything like that. If you're referring to a metal box with a bunch of wires, unless you live in Europe, or somewhere else with 230V power, no, don't flip the switch. In either case, take a picture of what you mean...

It looks like you're not getting sufficient cooling for it to stay together, and is thus picking plastic back up, then redepositing it elsewhere as zits, or the PETG is too hot and dribbling out uncontrolled

You are using too new of a version of the Arduino IDE. try version 1.6.0

Depends on if you go based on resistance or voltage, as well as your criteria for acceptable versus bad. It's pretty unlikely that you wouldn't have at least a volt of drop across a blown fuse, no matter what sort of leakage you got from other electronics, and anything beyond 100 mV at these low of ...

IIRC, the Duet Maestro is a cut down version of the Duet board family meant mostly for larger OEM's to integrate it into more price sensitive printers (IE, fewer drivers, less expansion, but same web interface and computational capacity we know and love)

geneb wrote:I've got a mind like a steel trap

g.

Rusty and illegal in a few states?

No matter how you two feel age or illness has affected your minds, I would say you're both pretty sharp, and that even young'uns like myself have more than occasional moments of forgetting random things.

If you disconnect the strain gauge completely at the hotend do you see any change? Similarly, do you see any change if the Z-probe cable is disconnected from the board? Does the cable have continuity from end to end, and when unplugged, is there continuity between pairs? I hope support gets back to ...

That's a PID issue. I believe it's that the I term is incorrect, leaving an offset in the final temperature (It's either I or D. I just deal with PID so infrequently that I forget which one in specific it is)

I do believe Geneb mentioned checking it earlier in the thread, but the issue with a loose connection is that it can be intermittent. It's also a bit surprising that it didn't kick something back in octopi, as that should have prevented the board from powering on.

You could always set the startup temperature for the duet to be your higher temperature, or potentially see if adding another M109 helps at all.

That is potentially due to debris on the end of the heat break or nozzle preventing the two from butting together tightly, or possibly just them not being torqued together well. The two should create a metal on metal seal, preventing any molten plastic from escaping.

Yeah. It was a known, and discussed issue early on that it doesn't like calibrating on PEI or other bed surfaces (buildtak, etc). I think Fablam works, but isn't as durable as PEI is. I have pretty little clue what to do from here (since I dumped the Rambo a while ago for a Duet, I don't have as muc...

That is really weird. Could you check what value you have in configuration.h for SKIP_M109_IF_WITHIN Mine with a working firmware with PT100's(but not probing), is set to 2. You may also be able to set it to 0. And you can confirm that there are M109 codes to set the hotend temperature, yes? Potenti...

I suspect it's a combination of the facebook group, less interest in enthusiast 3D printing (trends indicate that consumer, meaning plug and play, and industrial, are both up quite a bit), and a series of new models pushing older folks out of the forum. After all, despite there being numerous V1's o...

Really cool looking. Fortunately for me, my preferred scale for trains is a bit smaller, so while I can't do cool detailed builds like that, they are faster to print, and a bit less work (I like N-scale, since it fits with some of my wargaming stuff)

This would take a lot of changes, actually. Longer arms, higher resolution steppers (to reduce the effects of the increased movement magnitude from the longer arms), more torque to hold the arms up, much longer towers (Each mm you increase the arm length by reduces the height of the top of the dome ...

It's quite possible that you have a draft, or colder air where you are now, that is causing at least some of the increased warping. An enclosure (Box, cabinet, or even a dedicated set of panels actually attached to the printer), may help, as would heating it (for the ABS). A slight increase in extru...

It looks like I can make you the part, and ship it for not too bad a price (UPS says ~13$ to ship it). However, I don't have double sided melamine around, and haven't been able to source any I can actually get. I do have single sided melamine, but it seems to be less heat resistant that Seeme's. I a...

Try adjusting your I-gain, and see if that affects your offset. Autotuned PID loops are not perfect, and some amount of hand adjustment is often helpful. Try some drastic changes with it, halving and doubling, to see what direction you need to go in, then fine tune. This should also reduce your over...

Def can also mean that it believes the temperature is decoupled, meaning that it's pumping in more heater power, and not seeing a temperature response. So if you have the center of the bed uncovered (where the thermistor is), and fans blowing, the thermistor can lose heat rapidly, and cause a decoup...

IIRC, the V3 has you remove the flaps, and has it lined up such that they endstop screws hit the actuator directly. I've only had a little hands on time with a V3 though, so i'm not entirely sure. You could also use optical endstops. I think it shouldn't break them often though. Mine have managed to...

It's connecting properly from the looks of it (at least in the first screen shot). Since you have no hardware connected, such as thermistors, endstops, etc, and don't seem to have a password or custom name defined, it's not really doing anything, but it's connected.