Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Cool looking prints! Great job.

Correct. I'd skip the heat spreader anyway. The new Onyx is half the thickness of the old one and may heat more evenly. That being said, there's nothing stopping you from adding a nylon bushing or stack of washers under the clips to help them clear the spreader height. g. Good tip with the washers ...

Has anyone found the files on Thingiverse and can provide a link?

The instructions for the bed mount are correct. The glass is not supposed to be perfectly flush - it sticks up about 1/16" above the surface of the base plate. Understand that what you've done may work for you, but that's not how it was supposed to be assembled. :) g. Gene, I have 5/16 aluminu...

Excessive stringing can be caused by the retraction settings so I would experiment with different lengths and speeds to try to minimize the strings.

Eagle, the comments on the hot end really only apply to the old design. The new hot end's thermistor is positively locked into place with a screw and RTV gives no real benefit. There's also no need to wrap the heater block any longer. The heater cartridge puts out a ton of heat and the layer coolin...

Great looking machine!
Good job and thanks for the picture!

See this link for some thoughts on using RTV on thermistors. The Thermistor on the bed can better be held in by some Kapton tape on the back of the heat bed. The same can go on the hotend wrapping the tape around the hotend where the thernistor is located. Screw in thermistors are the best for hoten...

Thanks! I look forward to your new build thread!

They appear to be shipping with a .5mm nozzle. My advise at this time is to contact support at Seemecnc.com and ask if they can ship one with the .4mm nozzle.
These are so new that I do not believe that they have had time to work on providing different size nozzles but support can tell you for sure.

Most of us do not have the Version 3 yet, anyone that does is welcome to jump in and answer.

I have rumors that an upgrade to the V3 will be offered but they need to catch up with all the orders coming in.
I would anticipate a wait of months.

Congratulations on getting it up and running again!

Good Job in getting it working.

Thanks for the great build and the wonderful pictures.
If I ever get the time to finish my Max Metal I will certainly use this to guide me along.
GREAT JOB!

The first thing that I would do is to reverse the LCD connectors, sometimes it is hard to get them right even though the board has key marks.

I invested in the tiny metric drill bit set that includes 0.4mm and .5mm bits, link is here:
https://www.amazon.com/Awakingdemi-150- ... +drill+bit

His head is not too big but it does contain a lot of knowledge.
Knowledge that he willingly shares with the communities that he is on.
I am looking forward to Mhackney's build thread of the V3.

They make the fuses in 10 amp also, it may be worth a try.

The original 5A fuse is
LittleFuse 0451005.NRL

The 10A version is
LittleFuse 0451010.NRL

Both available at Mouser and Digikey.

I am from Columbiana, OH if you have ever heard of it.
A small city of about 8000 people but it has been my home for most of my life.
I don't follow any sports so I will not comment of the teams in Cincinnati.
Have a great time printing!

Welcome to the Forum Jshel2000. The Rostock Max V3 is an excellent match for your school, in fact many schools are using the V2 and V3. You can ask questions on this Forum and someone will help you, later on you can help others on the Forum as you gain experience. I wish you the very best on your co...

FWIW I blew F2 or F3 the same week I built my printer, I ordered 10 5A and 10 10A, that was almost 4 years ago, and I've not blown one since.[/quote]

I think you have a guardian angel!

We all learn something everyday and now you know about the fuses, how to test them and where to get them.
I also hope that your fuses get to you promptly so you can get back to printing.

If the Pi version you purchased is the WIFI version and if you have WIFI in your home that extends to where you place
your printer then you will not need a hard wired connection at that location.

Good Job! Thanks for the picture.