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I don't know about the Rambo connections, but couldn't you just pull the 12V you need from the power supply? Not sure what they leave you there for extra wiring on the Orion.

I'll have to check out that bot. If it's heat related, then yes, stick to ABS. PLA is very durable though. More rigid than ABS. It's what you'd want to print gears out of, in my opinion.

I would definitely try a brim. Might make a world of difference.

As bot mentioned, maybe you have a bit more of a draft on that particular side of the build plate, or it's possible that your filament doesn't press down as much on that side, so you're not quite getting that full sticking of the filament. I would also try bumping the bed temperature up a bit if you...

Welcome to having a delta printer! This is one of the setbacks with the delta printers. At the towers, the Z height isn't bad, but between the towers and more away from the centre, you might notice you have high and low spots. There are a number of things that could cause this, and I believe they're...

Right on. Glad you got things figured out. At least it was a simple solution. Personally I use Cura as my slicer and just copy the file to the SD card. That way I don't need to keep my PC running too. I only use Repetier (haven't really dove into MatterControl yet) for calibration and EEPROM purposes.

Ouch. That's pretty rough. It looks like it's too hot or over extruding or something. If it's ABS, the temperature should be around the operating range. I run mine at 235-240C, but I don't know how long you'd want to run that temperature without a PEEK fan... Don't want to melt your hot end right of...

If you want to upload a picture, just below the text entry space, there are a couple tabs. One says 'Options', the other 'Upload attachment'. It's in the Upload areas. As for the stringing, is it just on the overhang areas? Or is it all over the place? You're also forgetting the 700 billion construc...

Welcome! Where in Canada are you frim?

What calibration issues were you having?

Just wondering if you could check things systematically by say, unplugging steppers Y, and Z and see if X goes down smoothly when you adjust the Z height. Then plug in a different one and try again. Might just be able to verify some things that way. As was mentioned though, the video doesn't let us ...

geneb wrote:Any excuse to buy a new tool is a good one.

I'd recommend a Hakko FX-888 if you want a really good, sub $100 iron.

g.

I've got the same type of iron only without the digital display. Just the dial. Incredible heat-up time. Best iron I've ever bought.

Awesome! I have a dc34 also and was planning on modeling something to attach a pipe for floors. You just saved me the trouble. Thanks! Btw if your battery on the Dyson ever craps iut, the cheap replacements on eBay work just fine on mine. Right on! Good to know about the battery. Haven't had any pr...

I had the same with some cheap ABS from ebay. Not possible to dissolve in acetone, bad layer adhesition, Need more than 245°C to print. Don´t know which material they used, but it´s not ABS. I had somewhat the same thing. My very first roll of ABS; thought I was doing something wrong. Wouldn't diss...

I had a Swiffer Vac that the batteries died in (rebuilt the pack and it lasted a little over 6 months before it too was useless) and I have a Dyson DC34. The Dyson is good for little things, but not floors. No attachments for floor use. They came out with the DC35 which does floors soon after and di...

Cool! What software did you make it in?

I would definitely say that there is something wrong with that 'ABS' if there is THAT much stuff in there from only 3 feet after being soaked in acetone. Regular ABS should dissolve completely.

I'll have to try those settings. I think a lot of it depends on the filament and brand too. Some PLA is super oozy and you can pull 10ft of 'hair' out of the hot end trying to break the stupid string and others will let go right away. That's a pretty quick retract feed. A while ago, I had found the ...

Does it kill the job as though it finished? Or does the hot end simply stop?

Very nice! Congrats on the build. Any separation on that large an ABS print?

Flateric,

Was it you that modified the extruder so that the bowden tube would go up right to the hobbed gear? I had read before that there were feed issues if that wasn't completed.

Nice! You'll have a blast.

I was fresh out of the gate when I got my Rostock too, but the manual written by geneb and with the help of everyone on here, it was great. You learn a lot really fast.

I've got lights on my machine too. It's typical that they dim/flicker slightly when the bed is pulsing on and off. Just a function of the LEDs with the V-drop.

If it makes any difference, I've noticed that with my printing that the filament quality makes a huge difference. Most jobs turn out great, but the ones that I've use my 'cheap' filaments on always have problems. Slight layer separation, poor surfaces, stringing, etc. I have my 'nice' filaments tha...

If it makes any difference, I've noticed that with my printing that the filament quality makes a huge difference. Most jobs turn out great, but the ones that I've use my 'cheap' filaments on always have problems. Slight layer separation, poor surfaces, stringing, etc. I have my 'nice' filaments that...

I've got mine set to 350 in Cura. As mentioned by others, I'm not sure if it's actually hitting that speed though...

Wow. Those are some nice lines... or lack thereof. What nozzle size was that to get it that detailed without the lines present?