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The tricky thing about intermittent electrical issues is that they're intermittent. You get something making contact that's not supposed to make contact (or something not making contact that is supposed to make contact), but only when just the wrong vibration happens in the machine. Consistent issue...

That's useful info. High temperature is low resistance. You're probably looking for someplace that's not insulated properly and shorting out. Could be the thermistor itself or anywhere the two wires to the thermistor could touch each other.

If the temperatures are jumping abruptly up and down you have a thermistor wiring problem. If it's going smoothly, check wiring, drive voltage, and PID.

The cooling settings have a minimum speed, so as cross-sections get very small like that, the print speed stops slowing down and you still deposit plastic on plastic that's still molten. You need to kill some time. Printing a second copy of the part or a column spaced far enough away for a significa...

Your retraction is too fast for what I've found to work well with a v6 as well.

Is this part using the same roll of material as the ones that are working? Sliced with the same settings? I suspect this part is doing more retractions than the others, which reveals an underlying issue with a partial hot end clog or problem at the hobbed gear. What hot end and extruder drive are yo...

I'm on my phone and can't see the models, but there's a lot of stuff on the STL-sharing sites that is physically impossible to make without supports. A lot of times it comes down to finding or making a model with the functionality you want that is designed in such a way as to facilitate additive con...

I've never used KISSlicer, but you have to change it to actually use the coordinates you want to use. It will output completely different extrusion commands all the way through the G-code as a result of the mode you select. Putting the command in the start G-code just makes sure the machine will int...

That dip happens too quickly to be a real dip. I'm still saying thermistor wiring problem, which can also produce the noisy region and the sudden jump back up over the setpoint when clean contact is restored.

The noise, decouples, and some of the print quality issues will probably be because of an intermittent connection somewhere in one or both of the thermistor circuits. That needs to be fixed.

To opine on the printed part it would help to know what it was supposed to look like.

Every time it starts building the part in a different plane, it's losing track of where it is. This can happen if a belt or gear slips or if the nozzle catches on something and causes a motor to skip.

Hmmm - I'll have to take a look at that from the image on the instructions page, it looked like the chamfer was on the inside and it states that it goes into the single end of the Y adapter. I made the assumption this was to help guide the filaments as they would be changed often - and possibly nee...

I don't remember what the graphic in the manual shows, but full power during ramp-up would be normal. You might log the values and do some more tuning to try to kill that 10C overshoot, but it's not horrible the way it is.

The image of the drill bit was my way of performing the chambered edge on the bowden. I can make the wall thinner longer into the pfte tube, as well I can still make the 45 degree cambered easier than with a utility knife. I used several bits of larger diameter as I stepped the wall thickness down ...

Haven't done it in a while but I had PVA sticking to Kapton over glass.

My experience has been that PETG has inferior temperature resistance compared to ABS. I melted a PETG dashcam mount when I left it up in the summer sun. Its ABS replacements have not met the same fate.

There are several types of phones that, rather than producing a rotated JPG, save the file in a fixed orientation and set an EXIF tag stating that the image should be rotated for display. If the file is then displayed on a device or program that doesn't support that tag, it will appear wrong. Runnin...

The "Hacker series" designation kind of invites that turn of phrase to describe people who have distinct preferences for some of the higher-dollar electronic components on which SeeMeCNC is just an intermediary. I'm 100% sure nothing untoward was meant by it. Michael demonstrates a great d...

As I read the description I don't follow how that excludes the Bowden tube either.

M119 doesn't change anything. It just prints the endstop states to the console. I don't use it often enough to remember the convention, but the states are High or Low and they should all be the same when the endstops are not triggered and reverse when the corresponding endstop is triggered.

Use the gcode console to pass it an M119. An open on the endstop will cause that axis to think the endstop is triggered and it may not move or move only subtly. Just to rule out that possibility...

Plenty of people run v6s with the stock fan without this problem. I have been one of them and I have not been one of them. The difference for me was being completely OCD about seating the Bowden tube. Push it in and, while holding the tube in, pull up the PTC fitting. First, though, is it a genuine ...

If you are running the stock hot end and haven't messed with the thermistor settings in the firmware it sounds like a wiring problem. If you unplug the temperature plugs from the board and check the resistance at the leads you should get something near the 80-100 kohm range depending on your room te...

Knock wood, I've had luck so far with ABS stored long term with no special provisions, provided it's plain ABS. The transparent has been jamming on me after long-term storage.

I wouldn't assume you'll have to sneakernet until you've tried the Duet the normal way. I still have the Rambo in my Rostock and even without the Pi SD writing was agonizing (when it worked). I, too, have resorted to the sneakernet on the Rostock. Uploading over the Duet web interface on my Mendel i...