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I use Tri-crimps from Powerwerx for most different crimp connectors, since they are comfortable and reasonably cheap (And most of the other tools aren't meant to crimp power poles, so I'll take it and the interchangeable anvils). For the .1" pitch connectors, I use the cheap ones from Hansen Ho...

Looks like you're printing way over temp, and over extruding. I'd start with calibrating the extruder, and see how much that helps. You also want to measure your filament and put that into the slicer properly.

Looks like a poorly tuned restart length, or else the retract speed should be tuned. Likely lower, as you're likely using an E3D-esque hotend, where to avoid jamming, the maximum length should be 2mm or less, and the speeds rather low. I would also make sure that your wipe settings are adjusted a li...

24V is usually better, because you can use smaller wires and less current (and also, it can drive steppers faster with a given inductance), reducing the moving mass (and copper usage) for a given heating capacity. 1.75mm filament is going to be better almost universally, because of it's higher resol...

The SD card in question lives on the printer. Stop worrying about it, because you're not using it to print from currently.

If you rebooted or otherwise let anything reset the com ports (Such as unplugging or resetting the board), because it's a software port, it can change. Some USB hubs/controllers at the MB level will do entertaining things. I can't do USB to serial through front panel I/O if I have my power supply co...

Trust us, most of people are quiet, and tend to be pretty helpful. It's a beautiful piece of work with a lot of heart in it, and even if it was just a picture frame, which it pretty obviously isn't, it would still be a pretty awesome effect. Most pictures like that I've seen would need a major light...

I also would pick the duet, since the calibration firmware 618Pilot had for the smoothie, IIRC, had trouble fitting into the ram/flash constraints of the Smoothie, and more advanced calibration, or better web interface features would only make shortcomings of the tight resources more apparent. Howev...

I largely agree with using the right tools for the job. I also happen to be trained for industrial automation, so my perspective is a bit outside the normal for people regarding actually making stuff. One big issue is capital intensity. It's very expensive to buy an injection molder, and cutting too...

With the way the wiring harness is configured, no. You will need to add extra wire to the wiring harness, and potentially set up thermostatic control of the fan. You can buy somewhat quieter fans, but they can cost a non-trivial amount more, and or move less air. Along that line, I, and a few others...

I''ve got an ATC 60W model, which they currently sell for 2700. It came with an air compressor, closed loop chiller, extractor fan, ducting, and some spare limit switches, as well as a dummy resistor for calibrating the ammeter, as well as the laser cut software. It's been working pretty well, altho...

Is there an actual reason you want the modular drivers? Because I can think of several to avoid it. Heat dissipation through the drivers is done through the center pad to the PCB, not through the top of the package, so heatsinks are mostly band-aids, unless the driver board is designed to have a hea...

Mine is connected directly to the Duet. I'm not using the Max system, so the back EMF isn't as bad as it could be. You can also fit suppression diodes to eliminate the back EMF. The Rambo shouldn't have any issues, as it does have protection diodes, IIRC.

I mostly use just a Berd-Air for cooling with my effector plate. For ABS, which is what the enclosure helps with most, only minimal cooling is really needed, and when I want more cooling, it's usually for smaller, tall features, so adding part cooling fans in that case isn't a problem for me. You co...

I would go for the FSR system. It's more easily portable to different control boards (Duet, Rambo, Smoothie, Etc.), and seems to not have the same level of heat soak/EMI issues causing it to not work warm. Considering that the Artemis has gone to FSR's, I would say that the accelerometer probe, whil...

It sounds like you might be getting progressive damage to the thermistor wiring (because that would make the indicated and set temperature change while not messing with the actual temperature). How much of the wiring to the hotend have you had to change in attempting to fix the issue, and have you u...

The only recalibration would be to re-tune the PID on the hotend, and that can often be skipped as well, as temperature regulation doesn't always have to be exact (yet I say that as a guy who hand tunes the PID on mine to swings of less that .1 degree to either side of set point, since I want the pr...

To make sure it's the heater (which it's not too likely to be, since it worked in the first place), use a multimeter to check the voltage drop from one side of the fuse to the other. If it's near zero, it's the heater. Anything else, and the fuse needs replaced. If it is near zero, check the voltage...

So all of the printing specs seem the same on both except for the build height. How much print quality difference will there be? I'm leaning towards the Artemis because of the new rails but it seems like a steep price difference. I just had to jump in on this one. How much print quality difference ...

Welcome to the list that provides the Best Delta printer support in the world. Could you have over driven the Rambo getting that DYZE hot end up to 500? if you plug your original SeeMeCNC hot end back in does it still print? perhaps contact DYZE about it? this is the first I have seen about your DY...

It is going to be firmware on the little board, as that converts from the I2C parameters to effectively a switch, but I was mostly referring to using it with a Rambo. The Paneldue won't have any problems, the Duet wifi may have a few. I would point a fan at the rear of the board, and be careful with...

As an additional note, most of the noise issues seem to have been resolved with locking clips for the connector, new firmware builds, and other improvements. The main developer for the firmware seems to feel that the ferrite beads are a waste of time and effort (especially since the I2C connection i...

Additionally, a BL touch or other offset probe is a major disadvantage when attempting to calibrate a delta. If there is a dip, or other non-linearity in the bed or motion, an offset sensor will move that over by whatever the offset is, meaning that instead of compensating for errors, you move them,...

I could, but some of the interesting things like CF reinforced PEEK or PEI need some pretty extreme temperatures. I'm also interested in using the 95% copper filaments, since I have access to the right sort of ovens to sinter it down to a solid. Another big plus for me was the ability to have accura...

Additionally, you want the belt to be flat at the height it is above the linear rail. If not, over a travel of say, 400mm, assuming that you have a smallish gap between the pulleys and the rail, there is ~.7 mm of difference in the length of required belt, if you had a lift of only 5mm. At say, 10mm...