Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

So in the past few months, my printer has developed a real problem with layer shifting, and I'm just not sure what else I can try that I haven't already. Here's what I've done: *Tightened belts *Loosened belts *Made sure the belt drive pulleys are tightly screwed in and well aligned/not rubbing *Rep...

Welcome, and I'm sure you'll have a blast building it!

Definitely good to know! The Duet Wifi definitely goes on my list of eventually upgrades...I didn't realize there was such a significant difference between the TMC 2100 and 2660.

... since they're reported to have a high pitched whine when running 12v.... I've been supporting the Duet WiFi since launch and this is the first time I've heard that claim. Can you point me to that report? Maybe it's just an issue with the Trinamic TMC2100 standalone drivers then? I've seen tons ...

My RMax V1 (heavily upgraded) was always a pretty noisy beast, but has been much quieter since installing some astrosyn dampers. However, I didn't like the effect they had on softening sharp corners/causing minor overshoot on high acceleration...I even noticed it was possible to wiggle the motors by...

This thread is causing me so much pain, I hate you all.

AlanZ wrote:I am not getting 'blobs everywhere' in my prints with S3D.
I made a short video of my current setup... are your results substantially different than mine?
https://youtu.be/A_a9GofByKY

Care to share your toolchange Gcode for S3D? ^_^

I've been happily running my RMax V1 for a long while now, making incremental upgrades along the way; I replaced the original giant extruder, bought carbon fiber arms, swapped the hotend for a Prometheus. About 6 months ago I bought the new molded carriages, ball joint arms, and matching effector, a...

For PLA you generally need to lower retraction speed significantly, it should be around 25mm/s.

My guess is you're probably in absolute extrusion mode instead of relative. So if you tell it to extrude 3mm, it'll do it, and then when you send the same command again, the printer says it's already at 3mm of extrusion, nothing to do. You'd have to say extrude 6mm to get another 3mm. Or go to relat...

Wow, if you're making a bondtech skip steps, something is seriously wrong. What are your retraction settings?

I hope your bed temp isn't actually 180

Awesome

In SLA category, you'd definitely get the precision you're aiming for, but as Michael mentioned your build volume would be pretty small. What size parts do you want to make? And the other trade-off with using leadscrews or ballscrews is the added rotational momentum of the screw itself. So again ver...

Personally I'd just try another slicer, maybe Cura or Kisslicer.

Mind posting your Mattercontrol settings? I'm also fighting some stringing.

I'd be interested in the details.

If only I lived in SF! Sadly that's too far to drive from Seattle. XD Why are you parting with them all?

Seconds Gene! Super cool!

geneb wrote:So...corner case.

g.

The moral of the story: don't stick your thermistor directly to the glass XD

I'm glad you guys found a workaround, but that seems like a pretty nasty bug that SeeMe might want to address. :/

Yep, what Noircogi said. Your print quality is really excellent, layer alignment looks spot on, with smooth extrusion. So if you want to minimize layer lines, you'll need to go for finer resolution. In the settings you posted, you're at .2mm layer resolution; you could certainly print at .1mm instea...

Thanks for the review! How's the heat up time on the bed to get to pla or abs temps?

What kind of extruder are you using? The stock Ezstruder it something else?

Maker geeks is always good stuff, high quality and made in America. They're also pretty cheap and have a much less expensive annealable PLA than you'll find other places. Anand if you only care about the type of filament but not the color they have a grab bag option: http://www.makergeeks.com/mafigr...