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I tried to find something like this with the search function in the forum, but didn't succeed. So here we are: A new cooling fan and shroud for my Rostock Max V2. I'm very satisfied with the performance - as cooling is much better than the stock fan. Hence my prints with PLA come out great, especial...

Check whether your glass plate is still flat. Mine seems rather tilted - and I don't know why. It's just like a 'chinese hat' - higher in the center. To solve this I could did some calibration as you did but it keeps changing, especially when heating the bed. Now I've decided to go this route: I ord...

There's no belt alignment issue because you move the gear to offset the thickness of the damper. g. Nope - nothing at all. I was concerned about this too, but the gear rotates accurate on the "shorter" motor axle. Print outs come out well - or even better. At least they are being printed ...

Thanks to all for your answers. Qdeathstar: For me definitely worth the time when looking at the result. It appears that the hot end moves much smoother over the printed part, it literally flies since there is really almost zero noise. I get the impression that printing result is better too - it rea...

Since I have my Rostock Max V2, I was annoyed by it's noise during printing. A overnight print job was difficult - my wife complained about the noise. :( Now I have installed some motor vibration dampers I've got from here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/NEMA-17-23-stepper-motor-metal-Damper-NEM...

my firmware is original - no mods made.
Anyway - I think need to find a another way without negative Z playing around

...but interestingly it does when using the knob at the front panel...

It appears that a negative Z probing had been already discussed in 2014 in this forum : http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4667 Even there are other suggestion to calibrate with the screws, I think that using the Rostock Max V2 internal Z measuring can be helpful to calibrate it -ins...

Thanks Eaglezsoar for bumping!:-) It's not Mattercontrol that doesn't do anything as I can see the command G1 Z-0.1 being sent on Terminal. The Rostock Max V2 or most probably Repetier prevent me from doing this via a Terminal command. Of course the knob would be possible but via the buttons on Matt...

In order to do some calibration stuff, I'd like to move the nozzle to a negative Z value. (e.g. when at 0 the head is for example still 1mm above the bed). It seems that I can't move the head lower - the command is simply not executed (G1 Z-0.1 or clicking Z- on the controls). The Z position value h...

Thanks a lot Rolffeof6 !

How do you go about calibrating with this method? do you have a custom script you run? or could you possibly point me in the direction of a guide as i have read a few different things and cant seem to get it to work. i also have the harbor freight dial indicator. any help would be greatly appreciat...

Thanks Jason128 - I assume this is one of the big blop of silicon between the ONYX bed and the glass?

Captain Starfish - you might be able to assist me here: I'm looking for a instruction how to do filament change during print with my Rostock Max V2. (maybe for a two color print) According to this thread pressing Pause will lift the nozzle for some 25mm (or 100mm when using your suggested special G-...

Thanks for the nice tip Span24!

Jason128 - even I can follow your explanations it would be great if you could post some pics of what you have done for others to do the same!

Thanks a lot!
John

I struggled for months trying to get it calibrated before realising I had the same issue. I ended up removing the snow flake completely, fixed the onyx on spacers through the same holes. Also holding the bed onto the onyx, which was also warped, with 3 big blobs of silicone. Was intended as a tempo...

Why that DeltaCon? The silicon for sure withstands higher temperatures than the bed ever would have. (Like never above 120°C). This would be no issue for silicon - what problems do you think would occur?

Read my posts on this - the bed is constrained in 6 places around the perimeter. Most materials expand when heated to these temperatures. That expansion needs to be accommodated in some way, in this case by a bowing movement. I posted last week about this and the benefit of using 3 oval holes to at...

Thanks to all suggestions - especially mhakney for the oval hole suggestion. Will definitely look into this!

After doing my Rostock Max V2 calibration using a depth gauge (as shown here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10027" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) I checked it with a cold 23°C bed temperature. The gauge indication on this Youtube video was 0.60mm (just ...

Ok, cool. A ball that rotates during the moves? Still I would suggest to do the lifts between individual moves - you might add a few steps on each axes do get more values between. If you have even light friction between the gauge ball head and the bed, you will even have undesired forces from the si...

I would suggest to lift the hot end for some 2..3mm when moving the gauge to avoid any sort of scratches etc. on the glass & hot end!

Thank you both for your answers. I'll get in touch with matter control's support once to get their response on this!

some other 'scratch movement' - see below