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I've done some more calibration today. First I re-printed the calibration circle another 5 times until I was getting extremely consistent horizontal rod lengths. I am confident that there is no more tweaking to be had in this department. Next I turned my attention to the slicer. I designed and ...

I use standard UHU glue stick and have no problems with ABS or PLA curling when printing. It sounds as though you have calibrated the z height accurately, but have you tried using a piece of paper? You should be able to slide the paper under the nozzle and feel it grab firmly, but not so much that ...

Take a look at the layer view in mattercontrol. If the first few layers are blank then you know the model isn't touching the platform.

Thanks for your reply In terms of the model design - the problem is twofold: - the raspi board doesn't fit into the case, even though the outer case dimensions are correct, the inner dimensions are not, because the walls are thicker than they should be. - the two halves of the case don't fit ...

Hi folks, I'm having some problems with dimensions on objects that I'm printing. I noticed this first when printing a raspberry pi case. First I tried this sleeve case: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:604915 I found that I couldn't fit the Pi in there - I figured I'd just try a different design ...

nice work, the lights are a nice touch

haha cool!

Have you tried printing from SD instead of from Octoprint to rule out the Raspi?

Here's two handy guides for troubleshooting print problems visually. I find it really useful when I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue as it gives the problems names that you can google for :) https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a ...

Check out Octoprint, if your laptop has wireless it will let you control your printer from another computer. You can do your slicing remotely (or even in Octoprint using Cura) and then just upload the gcode and hit go.

Interesting reading, are you saying that the glass bulges in the centre? Or is it the heated bed that is bulging, and you're 'levelling' the glass by adding the tape as a spacer?

Thanks for posting your findings

your avatar seems appropriate!

Finished! This came out awesome, really pleased with it. The fan clips are great - they're VERY snug and the fan goes on with a nice 'click' ! [img]http://i.imgur.com/UuEG40v.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/t6z0Q8z.jpg[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/VhBRSfe.jpg[/img] Timelapse of the print: https ...

You can 'tune in' to my Rostock Max V2 doing it's printing at the below link: http://3d.thedoble.com You can also view 1080p timelapses of previous prints if there's nothing printing at the time. I've done quite a bit of testing and configuration in Octoprint to get the best quality, fast, low ...

cool detail on the hands!

Xenocrates wrote:You play Eve Online, Don't you?

I used to the vexor is for a friend

jesse wrote: What did you use to generate this image?

It's auto-generated by repetier-server

You can take a look if you like - it's printing now.

http://3dprinting.thedoble.com
There's a webcam too

Looks good but you might want to make a provision for an intake filter if you are sucking air in with the fan Good idea, especially considering there's likely to be bits of filament floating around near the printer base. You could simply put a bit of gauze or mesh over the front of the intake. I'll ...

I got this idea from another design on thingiverse - added a 45 degree duct. This should direct the air onto the X/Y steppers and past the electronics. I made the plate able to be installed upside down so you can have one on each side of the base and get PUSH>PULL airflow throughout. [img]http://i ...

I've had the bumpy first layer problem too - it could be one of the below: - Your bed is a bit too close to the nozzle. During the print, the pressure is building up but not escaping, eventually it manages to break through and a blob of plastic is the result. - Related to above - Your first layer ...

I wanted to get a bit more airflow happening inside my rostock's base. I found my steppers get quite warm. I'm also learning a new design package - Autodesk Fusion 360. Coming from Sketchup, it's a beast! I figured this would be a nice, simple design so I can start to learn how to model in Fusion ...

IMBoring25 wrote:To state the obvious, if you have an alternate build surface over the top of your glass, the glass won't come with the print.

I might look into PEI for my new plate which I've ordered.

Eaglezsoar wrote:What are you using on the glass before printing?

Just UHU glue stick.

Congrats, surprised it powered up at all with the PS voltage set wrong

Can you use Grab to post a screenshot of your Settings > Printer tab?

Have you tried printing off the SD card?

I'm not an expert but it sounds like the EEPROM is not saving the z-height values.

Are you printing from a laptop or from an SD card?

Whichever it is - try swapping to the other, see if the problem goes away?