Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

So they don't offer the same extrusions in black (with one side closed) and the other pieces would be special order so he's not interested in offering a black version. I can't say I blame him with it being backordered as it is. Thanks for all of the replies!

I sent Brian a PM, I'll update with what he says in case anyone is curious about this in the future.

Oh, no kidding! Nice! I may have to inquire about that then.

Now that you mention it, I suppose I'd only really care about the towers being black anyway since I can paint the rest without it affecting anything. Thanks for the link, That thing looks awesome!

I considered that, but I'd imagine the paint would wear off where the trick truck wheels contact the vertical extrusions and may not be properly even with my spray painting ability. Lol

Hah I can only imagine what that would cost. Just out of curiosity, in what country do you live? And you think it would be a negligible loss? It's admittedly not very important, I just thought it'd be neat to have black Max Metal -- of course I can make whatever parts I print for it black, so I've g...

All good points, Thanks! I still haven't resolved it, but I'm leaning towards selling my GoPro and ordering a Max Metal frame (as I mentioned in that thread about making a black one) just to eliminate the tower lean variable as much as possible. If I still have issues, at least it will be very unlik...

Thanks for all the replies! I think I'm just going to pass on having it anodized if it'll screw with the dimensions/accuracy. Also Brian seems like a pretty busy dude and the frames are back-ordered as it is, I don't want to be the guy in the drive thru making an unnecessarily complicated order when...

I was just wonder what would be the best, and most cost-efficient, way to make a Max Metal frame black -- or if it's even feasible without spending a ton. I know it's really not ultimately important, but if I'm going to rebuild my Rostock I'd like to make it as nice to look at as I can in the proces...

Thanks for the info. I'd just seen a couple in Google Images that were Acrylic and thought it might be a good way to go, but I'll stick with the Melamine until I can get a metal frame kit. Is there any practical way to make the melamine frame more rigid and hold square (assuming that's what my issue...

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to check towers for square and then perhaps that bed piece. Would having all of the Melamine piece cut from acrylic make it more rigid and hold it's square better? I really wish I could afford to order a Max Metal frame. Lol

Well I don't know what happened. I checked my tower alignment as bet I could and made sure everything was tight, upgraded a few parts, and everything seemed to be working well for the past 4-5 months. I didn't seem to have the bed level issue between towers anymore. I went to print a large part a fe...

Wow, thanks for the replies! All of those ideas seem like an improvement over my Molex connectors. I guess I just wasn't sure that latching connectors would be sufficient, but obviously they are! I'll definitely have to take a look at that Yellowjacket board, too.

I can run 8mm retracts on PLA and PETG without jamming issue on my Prometheus. The long polished one piece barrel is forgiving for the long retracts. I've got some crappy PLA that is super stringy hence the long retracts but the better PLA's are typically a 3-4 mm retracts for my current configurat...

Just found this thread. I am an avid Prometheus V2 user. Assembly was easy with their guide. You'll have to update and let us know what you think! I never get jams -- ever. I chose the 0.4mm nozzle initially, but have since also bought a 1mm and a 0.6mm. I'm playing around with 0.6mm now. I've also ...

Hello, all! So I've done a few mods to my Rostock Max V2, one of them being MOLEX connectors to most of my hot end wires (not layer fan, that's coming though) and for my extruder stepper. Anyway, my wire job is functional, but it isn't great. I want to rewire from the top of the machine (after the w...

I was thinking about zipties as well, but I think a small strip of heat shrink over the connection might work and might look cleaner -- or it won't work and I'll end up resorting to zip ties. Lol I've just now put them back on for now to see if they continue to pop off since someone commented that t...

heat shrink won't be elastic enough to stay on and perform the expected function of the lash straps - print new connectors that are fractionally bigger and with more rasp on the teeth and install them - should sort it out I wasn't going to replace the rubber with heat shrink tubing, I was only goin...

I installed the new arms and they're great, but from day one they won't stay on so I've just left them off. I'd like to have them on though. I just can't risk them popping off while I'm not looking and falling on top of the part while it's being printed. Has Anyone experienced this? I'm thinking abo...

Installed Tricklaser CF arms recently and it seemed to have really helped, but I also started over completely with bed leveling and tightened everything up to be sure nothing was loose. So far it's looking good. It's an ongoing process of trying to improve accuracy little by little, even if it's pri...

I might try that to calibrate with a little more precision. So far I seem to be having better luck. I'm printing a ~3 inch diameter Saturn V model with pretty decent success. I do want to get an angle finder to double check tower lean, if for nothing else than piece of mind. I'll probably also get a...

Ah, good to know. I realized that it may not solve the issue, but I'm still crossing my fingers, and at least it'll make printing potentially more consistent, especially at the 5.5" radius. If this doesn't solve the issue for me then I guess I'll be looking into an FSR mod. It is weird how this...

Ha! Hell yes! He's my favorite physicist. So anyway, I ordered a new product from TrickLaser which they seem to think will, or at least may, resolve the dreaded triangle issue. They're just longer CF rods. They offer 300mm and 325mm. You do give up some build height, but I plan to eventually get lon...

Hm. I'll have to look into an FSR setup. I did notice that after reflashing my FW and Eeprom, and then reinputting he values from before I reflashed, the towers are now out of level, which is interesting. I changed horizontal radius and endstop offsets back to their values and all that. Idk. I'm goi...

Thank you for that link, it does look promising, but I don't have a Z-probe at the moment. I'll have to look into what I need to get one.