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Or just ignore all parameters on a G28 command if it's a delta configuration. I see no functional benefit to homing a single tower and it's begging for an eventual crash. If you want to center the effector before homing that would be better accomplished with a G1 X0 Y0.

AlanKilian wrote:

Jrjones wrote:Why are you homing just the X axis on a delta machine?
I would remove the X0 from the G28 command.

Yes, this is the default end G code for the Slic3r slicer.
I changed it to a G28 Z0 and the problem went away.

It doesn't need a parameter at all. On a delta it's normally rendered as just G28.

That does sound like the issue. A single-axis home operation is likely something not really considered in the firmware development.

Well, it was both under load and basically in a greenhouse, but I left my first PETG dash cam mount installed on a summer afternoon and it failed quite spectacularly. I really should have taken pictures of it before I threw it out. Its ABS replacement so far has not met the same fate. I have persona...

Do you also have raw filament? I once had a print that cracked a little too much for its application and just held the part under the hot end and turned the extruder drive manually to fill the cracks...Basically the same thing as those 3D printing pens you see but more improvisational.

Without running the bed across an SSR, you're probably looking at melting down the bed terminals on the Rambo if you haven't already. There have been a few who have done so without overdriving the voltage.

That should work.

Actually, you can print in either mode, provided you (or the start gcode generated by your slicer) set(s) the appropriate mode for the setting you're using in the slicer.

M82 sets extruder to absolute. M83 sets it to relative.

G1 doesn't specify absolute or relative. That is controlled by the mode the printer is in when the command is passed.

The stepper motors are not closed-loop systems, so once they wind up somewhere other than where the electronics think they are, the machine will indeed have a mind of its own. They can wind up in the wrong place if the nozzle hits something or if there's binding in the mechanism somewhere, either of...

If it's right at the center of the bed and gets progressively higher as you move away from the center in any direction or vice versa, that should be horizontal radius.

The 0.8 does not have WiFi and has to be connected over Ethernet cable. Thus the new version...Duet WiFi.

What is leading you to have the 0.95 extrusion multiplier? That's just a fudge-factor that will tell it to do all its calculations and then spit out 95% of the calculated plastic, which will cause this problem, along with changing other things. Have you calibrated your extruder drive by disconnectin...

They are quite sensitive but it should take a screwdriver to turn it.

Download Slic3r as a standalone program and import the gcode. The integration of the bed shape settings in MC still isn't correct.

What are you hoping to accomplish? No sense spending money you don't need to if the stock setup is doing what you want it to. My stock v2 hot end literally came apart all at once (resistors, resistor wiring, and thermistor), which was the driving force in my deciding to go ahead and hang the v6 I ha...

Well, this is a familiar-looking question that I already answered over on the RepRap forums.

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?263,743819

Which machine and which firmware version?

I can't speak for other slicers, but Slic3r has a functionality called Modifiers that allows you to specify a second STL in the same coordinate system and treat it as a separate volume with its own settings, so you don't need 100% infill where you don't need it. Yes, warp is a problem with ABS, espe...

With those criteria you'll probably have to scratch build something or heavily modify a kit.

I'm kicking around the idea of a modified D-Bot that would meet those criteria, but the D-Bot isn't enclosed in stock form and nobody is kitting it.

But you can control the output current with the PWM modulation, right? I think that's exactly why it has it in the first place... But i've understand why the SSR... Baseline is to output more power than the RAMBo can run it... So for a full 24v swap, just fine tune PID bed, PID extruder, limit fan ...

To the best of my knowledge, it doesn't CONTROL the current, it just has a current LIMIT (more than 15A will blow the fuse). As far as I know, it just switches the supplied voltage on those pins, and with a bed that approximates 1 ohm, you'll drive a current approximately equal to the supply voltage...

The screw terminal for the bed heat is already borderline for the current at 12V and will not support properly-sized wiring with the ampacity to run a stock Onyx at significantly more.

That was the first time you said here how you were determining the convexity. Otherwise-intelligent people do sometimes miss or misinterpret instructions and then get their heads wrapped so tightly around what they THINK the problem is that they miss other possibilities. Someone who flipped back in ...

Do you have a reliable reference for flat or is this analysis based on how the effector is tracking across the bed? Have you calibrated horizontal radius?