Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I use PEI and PETG without too much issue. Don't squish the first layer. Bed and 70 -75C for small parts and 80C for larger parts. Pop the plate in the freezer and they release fairly easily.

mhackney wrote:I haven't had any problems at 250° C probing and I've done quite a bit of it. Like you said, the touch is instantaneous so I think that prevents any issues.

Thanks, much appreciated!

I've been using PEI for awhile now... awsome stuff. My question is autocalibrating with FSRs while the hot end is at 250C. 250C is above the glass transition temperature of the material. The touch is very brief, but I didn't know if anyone had long term experience with the effects of probing the ...

Belt spacer clamps are not used with the TrickLaser brackets.

SeeMeCNC belting is thicker than some others and works better. If needed, a few layers of kapton tape or some other type of shim material placed in the slot will increase the clamp pressure.

Aflac wrote:

bob64 wrote:

Thanks! Did you use the latest FSR versions that don't overconstrain or did you use the solid mounts?

I did the solid ones but had them milled in aluminum, polished them and put some gun oil on to make sure I get smooth movement

Wow... those should look slick.

Have you tried reducing your motor current first? Much less work than adding fans...

I've been considering building a max metal as well... However in my mind I have no idea how to mount the heated bed. The snowflake in my current rostock max v2 has completely warped along with the top layer of the base. Anyone have any ideas on how to prevent this from happening and how to mount it ...

try looping the usb cable through a ferrite ring and see if that fixes the issue. (alternately, don't buy cheap LED bulbs. :D ) g. Good idea.. will give it a try. The USB cable I have does have a ferrite ring in it, but in may cases, they are not really tuned for the application and more there for ...

I've been having freeze issues with a pi2/Octoprint. It took awhile to narrow the problem down to a specific LED light on the same house circuit and at a certain time of time night of which the source is unknown. I'm dropping back to SDcard only prints. If this is your first printer, I would stick ...

I'm on my 2nd Trick Laser build right now. Can't say enough about build accuracy and stability of the machine. First machine was build with 1.8° steppers and the 2nd one get .9° steppers. I would recommend the Duet controller over the Smoothie based on first hand experience, and the Rambo will work f ...

PETG does not like to be squished for the 1st layer.

Just clamp it down with the glass. Make sure you keep the film size against the PCB to prevent shorts.

Looking good! I've add the Duet enclosure files to the Github Repo... Duet sub-directory Wonderful, thanks! Ha, your 153.6mm model is interesting on my 153.5mm bed: [img]http://ldhk.org/img/Screenshot_3_18_16__8_59_PM_1C9CDC0B.png[/img] Ohh My... at least the printer is "square"...

Not sure about what material you are using, but I am finding PETG is much tougher than PLA and resists layer separation.

Looking good! I've add the Duet enclosure files to the Github Repo... Duet sub-directory The untested files are clearly marked. I also have a cover version intended for use without the touchscreen. I should be able to print the remaining pieces this weekend. I'm printing in PETG so the parts are a ...

Welcome Brad!

Good work keeping the Solidoodle moving.. I'm sure it's been a learning process and much experience gained.

I'm impressed with the friction weld approach you took on the trucks. Once the belts are tensioned, there should not be much stress on the spacer. I'm close to releasing the enclosure parts for the duet electronics. The first print exposed some clearance issues around the board that need to be ...

Updated FSR specific mounts have been uploaded to the git repo. There were some height related issues that slipped in.

Everything appears to line up well. I will wire and test in a few days.

Very nice!

mhackney wrote:Quick question - are there supposed to be spacers for the top idler bearings? I don't seem to have these and the bearings need to be centered as there is way too much space.

I believe you just use washers to space and center. Brian posted an update somewhere within this topic.

ccavanaugh: is that similar to the sleeve material that's on the wiring that the heater cartridges use?

Yes... I've seen it used as sleeving for motor brush leads to prevent shorts

Thanks Gene, looks really good.

I end up with scraps of this http://www.mcmaster.com/#6172t11/=11ejp8m periodically and will slip this over the telfon sleeving and crimp as another protective layer and to bind the wires together.

My last ship expense purchasing direct from DisTech was $9.75 december of 2015 going to Indiana. I remember it showing up via USPS and took about 5 days to receive after I placed the order.

I can run 8mm retracts on PLA and PETG without jamming issue on my Prometheus. The long polished one piece barrel is forgiving for the long retracts. I've got some crappy PLA that is super stringy hence the long retracts but the better PLA's are typically a 3-4 mm retracts for my current ...

KAS wrote:I'm on my second sheet in six months, both don't fit the glass fully (amazon .040)

4 sheets from amazon also that won't fit either.