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I don't see any "edge overlap" parameter in KISSlicer.

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Ahh. See I went to a .4 nozzle diameter and bumped the flow to 1.2.

I'll try bumping it to .7 and see how it does. Did you notice any dimension accuracy issues with that setting?

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What trick did you use to make your infill meet the perimeters like that?

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If you figure out how to cure the issue of the perimeter/infill gap, let me know. It's driving me nuts.

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I didn't include instructions on re-setting the Z-height because the Merlin firmware throws out fractional mm values and the new height is likely going to be a fractional value. When I get the chance I'm going to re-write the calibration section to use a much simpler and easier to repeat method that...

The trick to getting the right tension is to tighten the adjustment screws to the point where you can't stop the filament from feeding by gripping the filament with your thumb & index finger. If you find you can't stop it right off, back it off until you CAN stop it and then give the screws a qu...

Tom, if you look at the first post in the thread, Polygonhell lists the parameters that need to be changed. Polygonhell:Do you know if the Repetier-firmware author is planning on adding support for the RRD LCD interface panel? From the notes I read in the code, the interface it supports isn't wired ...

The new LCD Installation Guide is available for download from: m This guide covers the wiring of the panel, but not the mechanical installation. I may update the manual in the future if I update my machine with the new LCD door mount. If you see any errors, please yell so I can get the guide updated...

I'm really interested in testing this - I'll give it a shot when my new thermistors show up (blew up the one in the hot-end).

Have you sent your changes to Repetier to get them into the main branch?

tnx!

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The black dust is the remnants of the belt teeth. High velocity air moving across the mouth of the vacuum is what causes the static electricity. If the nozzle were to accidentally touch the circuit board, it could discharge the static electricity into components on the board, silently killing them. ...

v1.7 is now available with requested updates & fixes!

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That's one of the things that contributed to the demise of my belts. You would think that hitting the limit switch would stop the travel no matter what.

As to the sound, it'll be a vibratory "bumping" noise.

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That whooshing sound was the "standard or drop-d" joke rocketing over my head at some significant fraction of c.

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I said "gently" because I was concerned about people inadvertently doing damage to the idler bracket by abusing it. When I installed the belts on the cheapskates, I pulled them as tight as I could and then pulled them "fully" tight by leveraging the idler bearing to the top of it...

My understanding is that a properly tensioned belt should produce a bass note when plucked. Correct?

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I don't have a problem buying it if it works well with delta printers. $40 is peanuts compared to something like Inventor.

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What variable needs to be changed and what value should it be set to?

tnx.

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My biggest issue with Cura is that I've been unable to get it to support multiple objects on the print bed. It doesn't position them properly for the delta style configuration.

Does Kisslicer have good delta support?

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I used 3/8" split tubing. The length will vary with how you route the wiring. Buy a package with four feet in it and you'll have a lifetime supply. The Kapton tape prices are pretty good - you might want to check Amazon too. "kapton tape" for the search. I bought 1/2", didn't pay...

I had a few g-code issues that contributed to the mess as well. When you drive the carriage all the way to the top or to the bottom, that loud buzzing noise you hear is the stepper motors eating the belts.

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Thanks Dan. I'll get those updated this week.

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There are a couple of factors that resulted in your eaten belts - I have the same issue. First off, you may have gotten a set of drive gears that were not wire brushed after manufacture. This will leave the gear teeth very sharp. The other issue involves what you've already found - the hot end being...

Aluminum foil is used to increase the diameter of the resistor to give it a snug fit into the hot end. The aluminum foil must be in contact with the interior holes in the hot end in order to transfer the heat the resistors generate to the hot end. If they can't transfer heat, the resistors will even...

The idea is to slow it down - that's the guidance I got from John. If it's wrong, I can certainly revise the manual!

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Thanks, I'll get the PDF updated as soon as I can.

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