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YES!

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Poul, have you printed the calibration cube yet?

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You obtain the remainder of the wires from the other connectors on the power supply - typically the four pin molex plugs will have one red, one yellow and two black. As to where they go, it's pretty clear. You place the "triple" bundles on the far right terminals as shown in the photo in t...

Glad to hear it Tony! You need to post pics of your test cube.

I updated the manual again today with a clarification on the heated bed wiring. Yesterday got an update as well.

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I strongly suspect their choice of fuse was more due to real estate savings than worrying about the optimal part choice.

They could have deleted the fuses entirely and made it a very visible requirement that the end-user fuse all the power output lines.

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Yeah, the clarification to step 22.4 got lost when Word decided to go smell the flowers and contemplate its navel. The bit didn't get added back in after I restarted Word. New version is up that should clear it up. If not, yell and I'll tweak 'er again! Yeah, you need to be careful with the sanding ...

With regard to those annoyingly tiny fuses - I blew the one right under the 20A resettable and ended up soldering 24ga wires to the "top" so I could use it to attach a tiny automotive fuse of the same rating. Looks like hell but it works very well.

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Thanks g, You deserve huge kudos for the manual, it has been a great help. Thanks! I'm glad it helped! I went to a local electronics supply store and got the LED and resistor. The man at the store didn't recognize T-3/4, he said he thought it meant T-1 3/4, which is what he sold me. Could that be a...

JakeCShake, have you been able to print the calibration cube that I show in the manual?

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Posted a new update today. Added a formal table of contents and a few notes based on user feedback. Now up to 120 pages.

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That's really odd. I've run my machine for 2+ hours and haven't noticed any thermal shutdown issues.

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..aaaaand added to the troubleshooting section. I'll post an update today.

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You should be able to move it around using the jog arrows after you home it with G28.

What errors do you get?

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fredini, if it was me, I'd install the LCD door where the solid face door went. When I get the LCD for mine, I may design a partial enclosure for it that is open to the back and just attach it to the electronics door using a few neodymium magnets.

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The completed version of the Rostock MAX assembly guide is available from: ---------- First Edition for Indiegogo Machines ONLY! ---------- m You're welcome to download the PDF or the Microsoft Word 2010 (.docx) version, whichever works for you. ---------- First Edition for Indiegogo Machines ONLY! ...

You don't want to use heat-shrink tubing on the hot end anywhere unless it's rated for at least 260C. The wiring was damaged because the knurled nut at the top came loose over a number of heating & cooling cycles. I've added a note in the manual to take special care to monitor that nut. You migh...

The end-stop wire for the X axis should enter the electronics bay through the same slot as the power supply wiring does. If it's too short, how does it compare in length to the other "Short" cable?

Ok, now I understand the confusion.

I've added this sentence after the snippet you posted:

"This will help pin the leads in place so they can’t be bumped by something and short together."

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lv2311, Part 7 doesn't exist. I've written an assembly manual that folks seem to like. You can download it at m - it covers the entire assembly, wiring and calibration. I was working on the "Your first print!" section last night when things went all pear shaped due to my inexperience. *fac...

Hehe. I'm glad you like it! Those connectors are called Molex. "Molex" is a commercial brand that covers a wide range of connector sizes and styles, but they're typically the larger white nylon connectors commonly found in applications that consume a lot of power (appliances, etc). I doubt...

fredini, you're soldering the thermistor wires to the back of the board after you pass them through from the top side. The RTV (or Kapton if you have some) does two things - it affixes the thermistor tip to the board and it prevents the thermistor leads from shorting together from being bumped into,...

Six feet is more than enough. I use 3/8" as that's what I had handy. There's plenty of room in there for the wiring. It sounds like you've got the bracket mounted properly. If you are still concerned about it, post a picture and I'll take a look. You can use RTV to insulate the leads. However, ...

Barnett, I like the idea of using molex connectors as quick-disconnects. I'll have to swipe that idea. Don't be surprised if it shows up in an update to the manual down the road. I'm glad you're finding the manual helpful. I wrote it while simultaneously building my Rostock MAX. The steps for the mo...

That's a great tip Richard! I wish I'd thought of it! (I ended up using a Jorgensen clamp, doing one tower at a time.)

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Craftgizmos, the length of split tubing depends on how your route your wiring from the hot end. What I did was tape one end of the tubing to the hot end and then walked it along the wire path until I reached the point where the wires would enter the base. That's the point I cut it. You may have a bi...