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davidsf, the draft manual will take you up to the point of assembling the EZStruder. I hope to have the hot-end write up done soon. You might want to just ignore the original manual for your build - the 2nd edition, even in draft form is a much better guide. If you get stuck, feel free to email me ...

Flateric, the funny thing is that the guy that did most of the work on Artcam left and started Vectric and they produce VCarve Pro and Aspire. They bring Artcam quality to the table without having to pay Artcam prices for it.

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If John has it with him when he swings by, I'll try to get some better pictures of it.

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I detect a VCarve Pro or Aspire user...

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That's just nuts.

He'd better show it off when he stops by here next week.

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New draft posted, same link. Among other goodies, the instructions for the EZStruder are in this one.

The next sections will cover the power supply, RAMBo mount, Onyx install and the hot end assembly & wiring.

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Foshon: Updated the description with the link. Thanks!

dbarrans: This is the only RamboLCD kit I've seen, so I wasn't aware of what they were shipping before. Using a keyed socket is a good idea.

[8 hours later]
...wow. Forgot to hit "Submit". D'oh!

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzdWk5BtttA

If you ignore the fact that I don't seem to know the difference between a four pin connector, a six pin and an eight, it's not that bad of a tutorial.

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If you just ordered and they haven't shipped, contact the seller and ask them to modify the order, or cancel the transaction so you can buy what you want.

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It's too heavy to be practical. Mounting a heavy extruder to the hot end platform on a delta defeats the entire purpose of the configuration. (speed)

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Ordered!

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Matt is the guy from NZ that should only be allowed near tools marked "Fischer-Price". He did the YT smear videos of his Rostock MAX "experience".

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My intention is to completely re-write the calibration section and I intend to do a video very much like this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmP9JQPAlr4 but cover points specific to the Rostock MAX. I'm also going to go into detail showing how to calibrate the e-steps using a method someone ...

I didn't get a new set of bearing covers. I pulled all mine apart and put 'em back together again for the photos. :) I can certainly mention the molding flash in the current instructions. The draft is currently at 80 pages and covers up to and including the extruder bracket. The link is at the top ...

btw barnett, one of the things I really like about your design is that it looks like it would be very easy to "balance" the belt to keep it running in the centers of the bearings. If you tweak it a bit to add a nut capture pocket on the bottom clamp, you wouldn't need to worry about having a wrench ...

Thanks! Last night I added Dan Barrans(sp?) method of threading the drive belts into the Cheapskate. I show both methods and the builder can work with whichever one works best.

I'm trying to fold in everyone's suggestions that make sense.

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Yes, the Sonotube would be full eight and have a "lid" on the top of it.

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Do you have a small fan on the PEEK section of the hot end? To clear a jam like that, you normally heat the hot end to about 185C and quickly "jerk" the filament out of the hot end. There's a guide online where this is described, but I can't find it for the life of me. I suspect asking on the irc ...

The orientation of the idler bracket is only important when you're first doing the assembly. Check out the draft of the 2nd edition to see how I did the install there. Makes it a lot easier than eyeballing all six of them.

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Is that PLA? It looks like a classic PLA jam to me.

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That's really slick.

BTW, you know you've got your idler brackets flipped, right? The laser engraved alignment lines are supposed to be on the inside surface.

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Noted, thanks guys.

dbarrans, do you mind if I use your description & photo verbatim?

tnx.

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Considering what I got when giving Google "what is a #6-32 screw", I don't buy the "hour" bit at all. :D Running the end stop wiring without the upper idler pulley in place is just as easy as it would be if threading it through there with the bare extrusion sitting on a table in front of you. You'd ...

Ok guys, the draft is updated - it covers the main mechanical assembly so far. Did I miss anything? Is it unclear in places? cambo3d, stick your oar in here! Considering SeeMeCNC sent me all the updated parts for free, this manual is about as official and SeeMeCNC sanctioned as it's gonna get. :D g.

A laser cutter capable of cutting .125" aluminum is veeeery expensive. I'm sure he'd be happy to cut you one if you supplied the laser though!

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