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Looks like some great deals! I'm sorry to see you're closing!

I fixed the url in your post - it ended "..caFor".

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Great!

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They're kind of hard to brick. It's more likely that the either the wrong firmware was uploaded, or the right firmware with the wrong configuration was uploaded. You can grab the firmware from here: https://github.com/seemecnc/Firmware/tree/master/Repetier%20Firmware Go through the Configuration.h ...

The plugin may need to be updated for the latest Octoprint. I don't have the time to do it, sorry.

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I have no idea, sorry. You might want to ask Part Daddy directly.

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It absolutely is.

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It hasn't been discussed here. It's basically a dick move on Flashforge's part.

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What happens when you flip the glass over? Same result?

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The delrin balls were the first version. The aluminum didn't come until much later. There's no reason I know of to prefer the Delrin version, but you might want to email them about it.

You might want to let them know about the URL issue.

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Delrin vs Aluminum for the ball assemblies depends on your use. If you're going for maximum print speed, you want maximum stiffness in the motion system, which means going to the metal ball assemblies and carbon fiber arms. The Meanwell LRS-350-12 is a good choice. Single rail power supplies are ...

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I would check for belt wear and to see if the belt drive gears are still tight. Barring that, you might want to email support.

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I'm running retracts at 25mm/sec and the retract length is 6.5mm. I'm printing at 60mm/sec with an infill speed of 100mm/sec. This is for my BOSSDelta 300 though. (it uses an SE300 hot end, so basically anything that uses the SE300 can use those speeds) I'm wondering if your retract speed and length ...

I contacted HQ and asked if they could build me an upgrade kit for my shopping cart. They said there was no direct path from v2 to v5, so in short, no. My plan: 1. order a duet 3. My understanding is that they run the same, but the 3 is the future and can handle more current if needed: https://www ...

Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLW3MNV

The idea is to put that tiny metal bead at the end of the probe all the way down into the hot end so that it touches the inside of the nozzle.

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This is very strange. I had to do some digging to refresh my memory on how the E3D v6 was put together. I couldn't recall whether or not it has a PTFE liner or not. (according to the doc sheet I found it doesn't) The repeatable timing on the skipping is just *screaming* "heat creep" at me - you're ...

1. Each roll of filament is going to have its own "sweet spot" for printing. Try bumping the temp up 5c and see how it prints. 2. I tried it out on a 7 year old spool and it worked great. 3. No idea. :) 4. Ahhh, I didn't know you were printing from Cura over USB. I thought it only did that with ...

If my memory is correct, T-Glase is going to suck up water, so you should really dry it out (google "filament dryer" - you can make them out of food dehydrators) and it won't print well until you do. The skipping on the first layer is because your nozzle is too close to the bed and the filament can ...

If it's a *reliable* 20 minutes to failure, you're experiencing heat creep into the cold section of the hot end. This results in the filament swelling inside the cold section and that will cause that particular dog to bark like mad. Is the cooling fan on the cold section working properly?

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I wouldn't mess with the flow % - it's not relevant to the extruder skipping problem you've got. The nozzle diameter in Repetier doesn't matter if all you're using it for is to send gcode to the printer.

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Ok, I vote for "Barking Extruder" to replace whatever the previous term was - it's so awesome I can no longer remember what it used to be called! :D What is happening is that because the extruder can't push filament through the system quickly enough, the bowden tube and filament are forming a kind ...

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Best bang for your buck would be a Duet3D controller and an SE300 hot end (or a hot end of your choice and a Duet Smart Effector).

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