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Since the forum update (and apparently for some time previously), the forum wasn't sending out emails alerting folks to posts or new users to account activations. This has been resolved!

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I would contact support and ask about the 0.5mm nozzles. They may have stock that's not added to the store.

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It sounds like you've simply got a bad pot on your hands. The value is probably fine.

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When you measure the resistors, you need to disconnect them to make sure the RAMBo circuitry isn't part of the measurement. You should get 3.4 ohms. If you have a stock hot end, there's two things that can cause what you're seeing. First, you may have an inner liner that has shrunk. The inner liner ...

Because the resistors are tied together, you're actually measuring both of them in parallel, which is ok. I was wrong in the value I told you - 6.8 is the value of each resistor. In parallel they should read 3.4, so you've for sure got at least one dead resistor. You can pull the resistors out of th...

I wouldn't have replaced the power supply without making sure you're seeing less than 12v while it's heating both the bed and the hot end. :) (That being said, getting a beefier power supply is never a bad move.) If you disconnect the power leads to the hot end from the RAMBo, you should read around...

Filastruder is usually the go-to source for Duet Wifi boards.

Your issue with stability may indeed be related to the compiler version - I've seen some truly odd behavior due to that issue.

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You're welcome! I forgot to mention that you need to use v1.6.0 of the Arduino IDE to build the firmware, otherwise weird operation can occur. They made some change past that version that can cause issues due to the large size of the RAMBo firmware.

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*Snarkosaurus Rex arrives in chat!* "Ah, yes. Of course! Despite many thousands of people building & using the v2 without issue, the DESIGN must be the problem!" If you have a skipping problem, replacing the hotend isn't the right solution. Going to an HE280 will make your life dramatically simpler ...

If you address the thermistor issue, the "dry run" message will likely go away. I would highly recommend you buy yourself a multi-meter. They can be had very inexpensively at places like Harbor Freight, or even your local auto parts dealer. Note that when checking a thermistor, you need to disconnec...

If the extruder is skipping, it's likely due to excessive pressure in the hot end. You may have a blocked nozzle or a restricted PTFE liner in the hot end (if you're using the stock hot end).

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Those JST connectors are pretty handy.

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You're welcome!

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If you didn't change the name of the printer in config.g, you can access it via http://artemis.local. If you renamed the printer, make sure there's no spaces in the name - you can access it via http://my_printer_name.local.

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Shorter by how much?

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Ah, yep. That's an internal power supply. Were you aware of this: https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/c/Droplit_V2 ?

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Can you post a photo of the power supply?

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The power supply is external I think... isn't it? I haven't looked at a v2 in years...

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There's two advantages to the Duet. The first is "nice" - that's the ability to control the printer via a web browser. With the addition of the "DuetRRF" plugin to Cura, you can fire jobs straight to the printer from Cura. The second advantage is absolutely huge. Since the Duet uses a 32 bit CPU, it...

Take a look at the "pre print" g-code in Cura. I'm not in a position to run Cura right now or I'd attach a screen shot. I bet this is where the "prime" operation is happening.

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Doug68, for an extra $50, you can get a Duet 2 Wifi. Couple that with either an SE300 hot end assembly or a Duet Smart Effector and your existing hot end, you'll end up with a dramatically better printer. Duet 2 Wifi: https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-wifi Smart Effec...

You can just re-run the bed mapping process. I don't recall the command off the top of my head.

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If the hobbed gear is grinding filament away, it's because you've got a clog in your hot end or you're feeding filament too fast for the temperature you're running. Cleaning out plastic from the gear is trivial. Get a dental pick and spend five minutes cleaning it.

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It almost looks like you're too high. Home the printer, do a G0 Z0 and then using the movement buttons in the interface, move the nozzle to where that part is printing poorly. Take a look at the distance between the nozzle tip and the bed. If there's a "big" gap there, you might try re-running the c...