Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

...is actually pretty easy! When you start a topic, there will be a three-tab box below the editor window: three tabs.png Click on the "Attachment" tab and then click on the "Add files" button. add files.png This will open a dialog that will allow you to pick your image file or other attachment. Whe...

Well the ball cups are on the ends of the arms you already have. You'd remove the "bar bell" ball assemblies from your old effector platform and transfer them on to the 713Maker plate.

g.

Yeah, best you'll get with FDM printing is translucent.

g.

There's also an offer through the EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) to get SolidWorks for something like $40/year.

g.

\o/

Excellent news! The Duet controller really does an excellent job with delta printers!

Congrats on your upgrade. You need to post pics.

g.

That's just weird.

Check the terminals on the RAMBo for the hot end and make sure they're tight and undamaged. Start a heating cycle and measure the voltage on the terminals. You should see 11.9-12v.

g.

Try bumping your Drive Min to 205. Just to be clear, when you try heating the hot end normally, it DOES get very hot, correct? Is the temperature change not reflected in the display? If it does NOT get hot, I'm almost wondering if they accidentally sent you a 24v heater cart instead of the 12v one.....

That's just bonkers. What's your current PID values set to?

tnx.
g.

Jim, the stringing could be that you're printing the filament too hot - what material are you using? Are you slicing with one of SeeMeCNC's Cura profiles?

g.

You could always contact the TrickLaser guys and get the numbers from them - if nothing else it would allow you to compare what you've got. I'd also check to make sure that your steps/mm are set correctly (80 for 1.8 degree steppers) and that the drive gears on the axis motors aren't slipping or bin...

I'd be tempted to use a Smart Effector instead of the bltouch. The strain gauge may be more accurate and won't require all the extra plastic for mounting, thus would decrease the effector mass. It might be more expensive than the bltouch though. 713maker.com sells an adapter plate that will allow yo...

Nicely done! Did you put the Duet in the base or in the top?

g.

As far as I know, those parameters should be the same for the TrickTrucks.

Facebook has pretty much sucked all the air out of the room. Eventually people will realize the astronomically poor idea this was and will return here. We'll be waiting.

g.

It'll be around 94.6 I think. You can use the extruder calibration process in the v2 docs to nail down the exact value.

g.

There is no M114 at the end of the bed file. The file I pasted should be used as-is. You'll notice it also includes the M500 to save.

The extruder is going to be 182.0 if you're using .9 degree steppers.

g.

Try this bed file: (replace the block of G30 calls in your file with the below set) ; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware, generated by Escher3D calculator ; 16 points, 6 factors, probing radius: 140, probe offset (0, 0) G30 P0 X0.00 Y140.00 Z-99999 H0 G30 P1 X89.99 Y107.25 Z-99999 H0 G30 P2 X137.87 Y24.3...

This is a weird one, that's for sure.

Can you post the full output of your PID tuning run? You might also try "M303 S190" without the other parameters.
You can paste the results into a text file and then just attach the file to your reply.

Thanks!

g.

The steps/mm for the Extruder is completely bonkers if you've got the EZStruder on your machine.

Can you post the bed.g file as well? Sorry I forgot to ask for that earlier.

g.

A thought just occurred to me - you changed the hot end, thus how the hot end is heated (resistors vs a heater cartridge). Did you re-run the PID tuning process? If you didn't, that might explain why the hot end isn't heating fast enough. Give that a shot and let us know how it goes.

g.

Can you post your config.g file? There is no "v4 firmware" - RepRapFirmware isn't like Repetier Firmware. With RRF, 100% of the configuration is done with G and M code commands and there's no need for any firmware changes. That being said, what version of the firmware is reported by the web interfac...

The forum here used to be very active, but then someone had the bright *coughs* idea to create a Facebook group, and that pretty much sucked all the air out of the room.

BTW, if you want to see how NOT to finish a v4, watch the 2nd video. "Derptastic" is a pretty apt description.

g.

Both printers share the same motors, hot end, and electronics. The Artemis 300 is built a bit "beefier" than the Rostock MAX v4. The v4 is a point in the evolution in the Rostock MAX product line and includes components from the prior generation (3.2). The v4 is an easy to build kit aimed at folks t...

Also, the cold-section fan will only be running when the hot end temperature is > 60C or so. You should also check the fan output with a multi-meter after the hot end is at temperature.

g.

Have you contacted support about this yet? If not, you need to.

g.