Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Have you tried printing from a PC (it can't go into sleep mode during the print though!) or the SD card?

You CAN update to a Duet Wifi board, but you'll need to replace the HE280 with an SE300 due to the differences in communication methods between the two.

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Ok, if you've got the hot end heating and you're getting the .14-.16 at the terminal block, you've got a blown MOSFET.

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I look forward to seeing how it works with the new carriage shells installed! Nice catch!

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You're welcome!

You need to go into the End GCode section of Cura and remove the M84 - it turns the motors off and that's why the hot end sags into the print.

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The FSR kit would work as well, yes.
It's not going to be as good as the strain gauge though.

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I don't know how it mounts - I've never had one in my possession.

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I'm going to take a guess that the "13" and "13-5" mean that the "13" is 2.4Ghz WiFi and the -5 mean it's 5Ghz.
If you've done the WiFi setup correctly and haven't changed the printer name in config.g, you should be able to reach it by going to http://artemis.local.

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I don't know for sure how the Smart Effector does it, but the SE300 is set up such that the nozzle hangs slightly below the cooling fan shrouds. 90% of the hot end is above the plane of the effector. As far as I know, the v3 metal kits that 713maker sells are totally complete - you just supply the e...

It appears that you've got the meter set up correctly - my apologies. Can you check the power input connector on the RAMBo to see what the meter shows? If it's around 12v, do you see LEDs lit on the board? If so, it could be a blown MOSFET on the RAMBo. If the F3 fuse (https://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_...

I'm not sure what the wire count is for the Smart Effector, but it shouldn't cost you any Z height.
You might consider moving the electronics up top. That way you'd only have power & heated bed wires in the towers.

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Welcome to the zoo!

I'm pretty sure we've got a for sale board floating around here somewhere.

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I had no idea you were using a mechanical probe! I have a vague (and I mean /really/ vague) memory of being told that micro switches can have a repeatability error of +/- 0.100mm. For some reason I thought you were using the Smart Effector, which has a strain gauge built into the PCB (that's what th...

Cory, does that pattern change if you rotate or flip the glass? Try turning it 90 degrees (make a mark on the glass edge so you can more easily track how you've rotated it) and see how that goes. I'm curious to see how (or if) the results change. I wish I could get my hands on your machine for an af...

It might have been an issue on the browser end of it.

Glad it works!

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It won't even preview in Cura.

I'm not sure what to tell you - you might want to ask dc42 either here or on the duet3d forum - he's the genius behind the Duet boards.

I'd like to try S3D, but it's decided it's not activated and won't reactivate. Time to kick some ass I suppose. Jerks.

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No. SeeMeCNC doesn't provide customized versions of the firmware. All the customization with RepRapFirmware is done through the config.g file.

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This is the first time I've ever heard of the problem you're describing - you might want to contact the guys at duet3d.com and see what they can tell you.
What version of the firmware are you using?

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Enable CRC checking like it says.

Do you have a Duet 3?

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I would strongly suggest watching some YouTube videos on how to use a multimeter. A ".16" reading indicates that you've got the meter set up incorrectly. If you can post a photo of the meter showing the dial, I can probably point you to the right setting.

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I think my total printer count is around 15, so...yes.

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The main feature of the SE300 is the strain gauge that's built into the PCB. Unfortunately, there's no 8 bit firmware capable of handling the output (that I'm aware of). If you want to update your Rostock MAX, an SE300, assembled wiring whip, and a Duet WiFi will do the job nicely.

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I don't use the Smart Effector. My two v1 -> Duet upgrades use FSRs. The Smart Effector wasn't a thing when I did those updates.

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...is actually pretty easy! When you start a topic, there will be a three-tab box below the editor window: three tabs.png Click on the "Attachment" tab and then click on the "Add files" button. add files.png This will open a dialog that will allow you to pick your image file or other attachment. Whe...

Well the ball cups are on the ends of the arms you already have. You'd remove the "bar bell" ball assemblies from your old effector platform and transfer them on to the 713Maker plate.

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