Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

You're welcome!

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If you didn't change the name of the printer in config.g, you can access it via http://artemis.local. If you renamed the printer, make sure there's no spaces in the name - you can access it via http://my_printer_name.local.

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Shorter by how much?

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Ah, yep. That's an internal power supply. Were you aware of this: https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/c/Droplit_V2 ?

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Can you post a photo of the power supply?

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The power supply is external I think... isn't it? I haven't looked at a v2 in years...

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There's two advantages to the Duet. The first is "nice" - that's the ability to control the printer via a web browser. With the addition of the "DuetRRF" plugin to Cura, you can fire jobs straight to the printer from Cura. The second advantage is absolutely huge. Since the Duet uses a 32 bit CPU, it...

Take a look at the "pre print" g-code in Cura. I'm not in a position to run Cura right now or I'd attach a screen shot. I bet this is where the "prime" operation is happening.

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Doug68, for an extra $50, you can get a Duet 2 Wifi. Couple that with either an SE300 hot end assembly or a Duet Smart Effector and your existing hot end, you'll end up with a dramatically better printer. Duet 2 Wifi: https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-wifi Smart Effec...

You can just re-run the bed mapping process. I don't recall the command off the top of my head.

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If the hobbed gear is grinding filament away, it's because you've got a clog in your hot end or you're feeding filament too fast for the temperature you're running. Cleaning out plastic from the gear is trivial. Get a dental pick and spend five minutes cleaning it.

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It almost looks like you're too high. Home the printer, do a G0 Z0 and then using the movement buttons in the interface, move the nozzle to where that part is printing poorly. Take a look at the distance between the nozzle tip and the bed. If there's a "big" gap there, you might try re-running the c...

Where is the filament getting stuck?

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That's not symtomatic of tower alignment, that's an issue related the the calibration. What you're seeing is the convex path (low at the edges, high towards the center) of a slightly off horizontal radius value.

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If it's going out of square AFTER you squared it, it may be an indication that the melamine has been crushed and is allowing the towers to be loose. You're right that adding a larger washer behind the bolt head will get around this. Now that being said, is the amount of "out of square" that you're s...

It must have been awesome watching them all running at once.

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If the RAMBo is good and the power supply is putting out 12V under load, you've got a wiring problem. A bad connection or a wire broken fully or partially inside the jacket.

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\o/

The motor should be ok - I would check to make sure that the wiring is ok. There might be a nearly-failed crimp at the connector end.

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There are Top Men on it.

Top Men.

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There's been some issue with attachments - roughly 165 or so have gone missing. Out of over 14k, that's not too bad. I don't know if Trick Laser is still selling 3D printer parts though.

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The RAMBo board only supports stepper motors on the existing connectors along the bottom edge of the board - there's no more stepper driver chips for more than that.

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Outsider, things are still being worked on. I'll let the forum wizard know about the skin issue. Thanks for reporting it!

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Yes, the wire count was due to current capacity. A single 14ga or 12ga pair of wires from the power supply should be fine.

Yellow is + and black (as usual) is -.

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Congrats on the fix! You might want to look into getting a set of the new carriages & ball/cup arms. It does make a big difference over the u-joint system and finicky melamine carriages. BTW, the reason the SeeMeCNC firmware is stuck on Arduino 1.6 is due to the code size. The HE280 code is pushing ...