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It's probably pretty close in size to the E3D heat block - I'd measure it and check.

g.

I don't have much advice for you on the stringing, but the best way to work out the issue is with a pair of 10mm cubes about 6mm tall, spaced 7-10mm apart. It's small & fast and is good at working on stringing problems.

g.

Nicely done! That's just screaming for heat-set inserts.

g.

Without knowing what the error code you got actually means, I can't answer that precisely. SD cards do have a limited lifespan. I would ask the Duet3D folks to explain what the error code is - that would help.

g.

You may need to replace the card. I'm not sure though. Are you able to put the SD card in your computer and back it up?

You might want to post this on the Duet3D forums and see what they've got to say about it.

g.

This is your clue: "Warning: Z probe readings not consistent". Is the nozzle perfectly clean? Does the bed glass move at all? Also make sure that the bed heat is off during calibration - the magnetic field created by the bed heater will interfere with the strain gauge circuit in the hot end assembly ...

What happens when you issue an M119 with none of the end stop switches triggered? Test each one - hold an end stop closed, issue the m119 and make sure it reports the right switch as being triggered.

g.

That file looks good. Can you also post your bed.g file? That will tell me what RRF is doing for the calibration.

tnx.

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Please post your config.g file.

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Please post your config.g file.

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Glad to hear you got it sorted! I've got a WhamBam plate waiting to be installed on my BOSSDelta 300. Maybe I'll get to it over vacation.

g.

If you've got a WiFi network with both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz radios AND use the same SSID for both, it could cause that issue.

g.

Thanks! Helped me remember a few things. ;) Here's the defines for the first fan: #define EXTRUDER_FAN_COOL_TEMP 40 #define EXT0_EXTRUDER_COOLER_SPEED 400 The first one sets the fan to turn on when the hot end temp exceeds 40C. It will also cause it to shut off when it falls below that value. The ...

Ah, now I get it!

Can you paste in your copy of Configuration.h? That's where the hot end fan speed is set.

g.

Extruders don't have cooling fans, so I'm not sure what you're referring to.

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Extruder cooler?

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I would send an email to support. I'd be surprised if they didn't have one or two on hand.

g.

That's what happens when you overheat the pads.

g.

I would attach a voltmeter to the power supply and then try heating the bed. I suspect the power supply isn't capable of putting out enough power (or the heated bed or its wiring is shorted) and the power sag causes the controller to crash.

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\o/

I think it's because PLA can leak around it. I'm not sure. I've never used the jet insert.

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The heat break in the SE300 is made from stainless steel, so it should be fine. I'm pretty sure the thermistor used in the Volcano is the same one used in the SE300.

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There's no TPU inside the stock SE300 hot end. I don't think the Jet is available. I just re-read your post. I thought you were using a 0.6 nozzle, not a 1mm nozzle. You will NEVER print fast with a 1mm nozzle on the tiny heater block that the SE300 has. The incoming PLA is going to cool the ...

In order to keep the hot end at a temperature that can melt the PLA at the required flow rate for the speed you're printing at, you need to go higher than 220C. The larger diameter nozzle is increasing the flow volume and the hot end at a lower temperature can't keep up. The PLA moving through the ...

The extruder skips because you're trying to push filament through the hot end faster than the hot end can melt it. You either slow down your print speed, or turn up the heat. Do some test prints where you continually bump up the temp while increasing the print speed. You'll eventually hit a point ...