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I'm not sure. You might want to email support about that. ([email protected])

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Printing with ABS is 3D printing on "hard mode". I would suggest you learn on PLA before moving up.

What slicer did you use for the model you show? Is the printer 2nd hand?

tnx.

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Welcome to the zoo!

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You're welcome!

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You mean EZR? Who told you it wouldn't work with that kind of filament?

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If you want to upgrade the entire hot end and you don't want to also upgrade to the Duet controller, then the HE280 is the one you want. You'll get basic, but usable auto-calibration with the upgrade since the HE280 contains an accelerometer that is used as a Z probe. If you want to upgrade to a Due...

Cory, take a peek at the 4th ed of the v2 build guide - I seem to recall putting something in there about a way to do belt tension that works pretty well. I'm busy with work right now, otherwise I'd give you a page#, sorry!

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\o/

You can use the 3.2 profile, just change the travel speeds to under 200mm/sec and you should be fine.

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If the RAMBo/HE280 combo is working for you, then there's no reason to change it. It could also be that you have a marginal connection on the whip (or it's partially lifting out of the connector on the HE280) when the print reaches a certain height. If the connector is lifting a bit, there's a clip ...

Have you tried printing from a PC (it can't go into sleep mode during the print though!) or the SD card?

You CAN update to a Duet Wifi board, but you'll need to replace the HE280 with an SE300 due to the differences in communication methods between the two.

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Ok, if you've got the hot end heating and you're getting the .14-.16 at the terminal block, you've got a blown MOSFET.

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I look forward to seeing how it works with the new carriage shells installed! Nice catch!

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You're welcome!

You need to go into the End GCode section of Cura and remove the M84 - it turns the motors off and that's why the hot end sags into the print.

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The FSR kit would work as well, yes.
It's not going to be as good as the strain gauge though.

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I don't know how it mounts - I've never had one in my possession.

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I'm going to take a guess that the "13" and "13-5" mean that the "13" is 2.4Ghz WiFi and the -5 mean it's 5Ghz.
If you've done the WiFi setup correctly and haven't changed the printer name in config.g, you should be able to reach it by going to http://artemis.local.

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I don't know for sure how the Smart Effector does it, but the SE300 is set up such that the nozzle hangs slightly below the cooling fan shrouds. 90% of the hot end is above the plane of the effector. As far as I know, the v3 metal kits that 713maker sells are totally complete - you just supply the e...

It appears that you've got the meter set up correctly - my apologies. Can you check the power input connector on the RAMBo to see what the meter shows? If it's around 12v, do you see LEDs lit on the board? If so, it could be a blown MOSFET on the RAMBo. If the F3 fuse (https://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_...

I'm not sure what the wire count is for the Smart Effector, but it shouldn't cost you any Z height.
You might consider moving the electronics up top. That way you'd only have power & heated bed wires in the towers.

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Welcome to the zoo!

I'm pretty sure we've got a for sale board floating around here somewhere.

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I had no idea you were using a mechanical probe! I have a vague (and I mean /really/ vague) memory of being told that micro switches can have a repeatability error of +/- 0.100mm. For some reason I thought you were using the Smart Effector, which has a strain gauge built into the PCB (that's what th...

Cory, does that pattern change if you rotate or flip the glass? Try turning it 90 degrees (make a mark on the glass edge so you can more easily track how you've rotated it) and see how that goes. I'm curious to see how (or if) the results change. I wish I could get my hands on your machine for an af...

It might have been an issue on the browser end of it.

Glad it works!

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