Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Take a look at these:
https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-magnetic-filament-monitor
https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/duet-filament-sensor

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Do you have an active WiFi network in your house?

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What are you printing with where drying is such an immediate concern?

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*jaw drops*

Holy sh*t. Dude(ette?), that's awesome!

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If the LED under the Heat-2 block doesn't light up, you may have blown the MOSFET that drives the heated bed. Ultimachine does offer a repair service for the boards.
If you'd like to tackle it yourself, you can find schematics and board layouts here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo

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Ok, this is directly connected to your other thread. The Duet3D isn't able to generate a good bed map. In your config.g file, look for the "M558" command - it's going to be around 56 lines into the file. Change the "A2" to "A5" and re-run the calibration process. You should also make sure that the b...

Knowing what the error you were getting would help.

What printer are you using? v4, right?

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I actually didn't know the fuse would reset. I thought they were single-use only. You could try jumping the fuse for a print to see if that makes a difference, just take care to ensure that the jumper doesn't come into contact with the cooling fins. It's also not a good idea to leave a hot end hot f...

Have you tried printing with PLA on the v4 yet?

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I would suspect a dodgy connection in the thermistor wiring. It could be that there's a wire working its way loose out of the whip connector, or the connector itself is coming partially unseated - although that wouldn't explain the swings when idle. Check the RAMBo end of the wiring as well.

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Max Petg (testing).fff.txt You can also find profiles here: https://github.com/seemecnc/slicing-profiles/tree/master/SE300/Cura Cura profiles for the SeeMeCNC machines go by hot end type, not machine type - at least regarding all the Duet-controlled machines. I've never printed PETG, so I don't hav...

The enclosure will certainly help your ABS printing!

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Nice! Welcome to the zoo!

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\o/

Since the forum update (and apparently for some time previously), the forum wasn't sending out emails alerting folks to posts or new users to account activations. This has been resolved!

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I would contact support and ask about the 0.5mm nozzles. They may have stock that's not added to the store.

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It sounds like you've simply got a bad pot on your hands. The value is probably fine.

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When you measure the resistors, you need to disconnect them to make sure the RAMBo circuitry isn't part of the measurement. You should get 3.4 ohms. If you have a stock hot end, there's two things that can cause what you're seeing. First, you may have an inner liner that has shrunk. The inner liner ...

Because the resistors are tied together, you're actually measuring both of them in parallel, which is ok. I was wrong in the value I told you - 6.8 is the value of each resistor. In parallel they should read 3.4, so you've for sure got at least one dead resistor. You can pull the resistors out of th...

I wouldn't have replaced the power supply without making sure you're seeing less than 12v while it's heating both the bed and the hot end. :) (That being said, getting a beefier power supply is never a bad move.) If you disconnect the power leads to the hot end from the RAMBo, you should read around...

Filastruder is usually the go-to source for Duet Wifi boards.

Your issue with stability may indeed be related to the compiler version - I've seen some truly odd behavior due to that issue.

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You're welcome! I forgot to mention that you need to use v1.6.0 of the Arduino IDE to build the firmware, otherwise weird operation can occur. They made some change past that version that can cause issues due to the large size of the RAMBo firmware.

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*Snarkosaurus Rex arrives in chat!* "Ah, yes. Of course! Despite many thousands of people building & using the v2 without issue, the DESIGN must be the problem!" If you have a skipping problem, replacing the hotend isn't the right solution. Going to an HE280 will make your life dramatically simpler ...

If you address the thermistor issue, the "dry run" message will likely go away. I would highly recommend you buy yourself a multi-meter. They can be had very inexpensively at places like Harbor Freight, or even your local auto parts dealer. Note that when checking a thermistor, you need to disconnec...

If the extruder is skipping, it's likely due to excessive pressure in the hot end. You may have a blocked nozzle or a restricted PTFE liner in the hot end (if you're using the stock hot end).

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