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Yes, there is a fan blowing over the PEEK section of the hotend. I can push the filament into the hot end by hand, but the PTFE tube shoves itself out, so I can;t get a good idea if i'm just not shoving hard enough or if it's a temperature issue. I set the printer back to 185 and the extruder starte...

Ok, starting over in a new thread. I'm using a V1 Rostock Max with the default nozzle. SeemeCNC Black PLA (also happened with white) with the temp someplace between 190 and 220. (Been trying everything to figure this out) About 20 minutes into the print the extruder skips repeatedly. (click, click, ...

Well, this has to be something in the hot end. When it started grinding in the extruder again I disconnected the bowden tube from the hot end while it was running and it extruded perfectly. So the jam must be past the bowden connection to the hot end. What I don't get is why it would be happening 20...

This is not happening as often after I cleaned everything up, but it does happen sometimes. Mainly now when it heats up. Perhaps i'm not giving it enough to to totally come up to temp? Not sure., hand-extruding works fine just before I run a print and yet it jams.

Back to the drawing board.

Hrrm, after pulling things apart I found this inside the bowden tube. [img]http://www.lasivian.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10001/normal_IMG_0421.JPG[/img] I run a fine file over all the extruder parts, figuring something must be catching inside the extruder body. I reassembled and tried to re-ins...

The more I look at things and ask question in #reprap on Freenode.net the more I think it's related to the extruder. http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accesories/products/ezstruder-cold-end-kit" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Partly because, well, nothing else makes sens...

A vase won't have any retracts at all. Do you have a v1 machine? g. Not sure. I think it's a V1, only one sheet of wood on the top. When it fails it doesn't matter what the print is, or how I slice it. (IE, the picture is a vase but it's done it on "normal" prints too) If anything it seem...

Resurrecting my old post because the problem is still happening. SeeMeCNC PLA, printing at 210c and the extruder skips (click, click, click noise of the extruder gear skipping I think) about 15 minutes into the print. I reduced the hotend temp to 195 and it happened 7 minutes in. Everything seems fi...

Eaglezsoar wrote:Have you tried a different slicer such as Cura or Kisslicer to slice one of your vases to see if it makes a difference?

Damn, never thought of that. Duh.

Thanks

No temp differences that I can find. No fans in the room, no heating ducts even. I cannot find any outside influence for it.

Thanks

so, making vases, and they come out perfectly, until it gets about 3" high, and then it starts not leaving a good line of plastic. It's happened three times now in the exact same place. [url]http://www.lasivian.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pid=3839[/url] [img]http://www.lasivian.com/coppermi...

Right now i am at

Esteps: 120
Temp: 210 (PLA)
Retraction length: 2mm

We'll see how that goes.

I actually made some progress.

The perimeters have always looked great, and layers without retraction. So I shut off retraction and got nearly perfect fill but lots of strings.

Trying to split the difference.

Having a bit of a problem

[url]http://www.lasivian.com/coppermine/displayi ... p?pid=3833[/url]
[img]http://www.lasivian.com/coppermine/albums/e ... G_0026.JPG[/img]

Already up to 210c for PLA and increased my E-steps more than 20%. Only running at 30mm/s

Eaglezsoar wrote:How does that fit the door? Does it fit in the space where the LCD is on the inside of the door?

It fits into the door behind the LCD.

Are you talking about the E-steps on the extruder? Er, yes. I was getting very gappy fill. Once I upper the temp (205 with ultimachine PLA) and the Esteps by 10 it's looking better. Running the .35 nozzle. Last night I printed the LCD door fan insert and it looked really pretty. [img]http://www.las...

The parts I am getting are about 1.5mm smaller in each axis. Thanks 1.5mm smaller versus what target dimension? If it's a printer configuration dimensional issue, I'd expect that the % error would be constant in every print, so if you're off 1.5mm on a 100mm dimension, you'd be 0.75mm off on a 50mm...

I finally found it

[url]http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=6 ... 104#p31104[/url]

For now tho leaving the LCD door open seems to give it enough air.

Eaglezsoar wrote:Edited, superceded.

that was good info, why did you remove it?

Thanks

geneb wrote:I wouldn't reduce it at all. I'd add a cooling fan to the back wall of where the RAMBo is mounted, or print that neat fan shroud that Chrissi designed that fits in the LCD door.

g.

Do you have a link to this at all? I cannot seem to find it.

Thanks

I am getting a tiny jerk and a click after I print things. Triffid_hunter in #reprap said this is likely due to the stepper driver overheating. But I am seeing that on the Rambo the current is set digitally not with a pot. So I am assuming it is correct. Suggestions/ideas? Thanks EDIT: The thermisto...

geneb wrote:What kind of a size difference are you seeing? What's the actual vs expected?

g.

The parts I am getting are about 1.5mm smaller in each axis.

Thanks

Hrrm, the size and arm issue might be because I started with the Tricklaser Carbon arms on the printer. Anyone else have numbers for adjustments after adding those? Thanks! On page one of the Xnaron Arms topic http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1704" onclick="window.open(t...

Hrrm, the size and arm issue might be because I started with the Tricklaser Carbon arms on the printer.

Anyone else have numbers for adjustments after adding those?

Thanks!

geneb wrote:Do NOT change the steps per mm for the x, y, and z axes. Those are calculated based on the gear tooth count and diameter.

g.

Ok, so how am I supposed to get properly sized prints from the machine?

Thanks