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Alright, 3h and still printing. The "new" sound is still there and it's driving me nuts.
If it's normal, then why did it start just now? The firmware update was done weeks ago.

Thanks Mac for clarifying it, I don't where I read that.

Actually... never, only if a clog occurs. But that only happened when I was printing recycled PET
I think the E3D nozzles are not compatible with the HE280 hotend.

Brian is right. The lock rings of the 713maker align with the YellowJacket holes, but not with the Accel Probe.

[img]https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8221/2948 ... 8f3d_z.jpg[/img]


EDIT: too late, xenocatres beat me

FYI the voltage is set to 12.15vDC and it's rock solid. It does not drop at all when bed, heater and motor are running. I'm starting a print right now, I let you guys know if the printer shuts down. Regarding the SSR, I'm not using it nor the 24v PSU. I will be buying an Auber MGR-1DD80D100 as per ...

I did update the firmware like 3 weeks ago, but never heard this till yesterday when the issues started. Something else must be going on. (Please bear with me, I'm having a hard time to explain myself properly in english) Installed a new 12v 30a Switching power supply. The sound is coming from PSU ...

I need help please, a couple of things have been going on. Will try my best to keep it as concise as possible. I posted it first in another topic, but better make a new thread. 1) When I turn on the printer the bed temperature starts rising by itself. The bed is fed by a 24v PSU and a SSR, the board ...

Guys I need help asap, I think my SSR have just failed... When I turn on the printer the bed temperature keeps rising by itself. * It's a 100a Fotek. * It' has never gotten hot when operative. * No signs of a burnt. * There is no light in the SSR. How can I tell if the SSR is failing? maybe fix it ...

That looks so badass

Lighter? Nice, they do look heavier.
Good job, I love watching other mods.

Agreed, sometimes we follow instructions as per suggested, but we miss something or it was something else and we added another variable to the problem. It happened to me to misinterpret some tips due to not understanding it in english and ended up messing it all. In that case, when everything I ...

Actually. I don't recommend those converters at all. I've used them before. Unreliable as they can go bad with weird modes of failure. Stick with a dedicated 12v power supply (like a computer power supply) and generate that 12v from scratch. It's cheaper and more reliable. Oh man... why? Please ...

Why do people always assume that we have not tried everything? I spent hours, days, months trying to get the E3d v6 working. It never did work properly. I have poured more wasted hours into this 3d printer than I have ever done with any other hobby. As I type, the printer has failed again. These ...

I was considering making the board hole much wider (+/- Ø16mm), so it could pass through the V6 j-head.
But I don't know if that would damage a circuit or somehting.

Could you tell us more about those cheapskates?

You are obliged to share your update build
and with a lot of pictures, if there is a dog or cat I want to see it.

How much? +/- 0.1mm or a lot more of difference?
In the meantime, I would check the screws that hold the onyx to see if some of them are more tight than the others.

I really don't know, I've always used CuraEngine and it works fine. Never found the need to install the stand alone program.
If nobody else answers here, you could compare both G-codes and see if there is a difference.

Thanks John for selling the board alone.
I will be buying it one of these days.

I don't think it would make a huge difference to the airflow of the berd-air, but you could insulate the heater block for a better overall performance. If you have an E3DV6 you can buy their hotend socks or make one yourself as I did. I've one installed and it works beautifully, check it out: http ...

Great then, I thought you forgot about it
Please keep us posted when they are ready to buy.

Do you have some sort of counterweight system? Maybe it's too much weight.
Either way, it won't hurt if you add it.

Is your extruder motor running too hot that can melt the filament? The weird thing is that it continues ok after that part, but worth to check..

Indeed, I love those mini trucks!

Where does the adjusting screw that triggers the end-stops goes?

Beautiful hotend! Great job guys. I take this opportunity to leave a few suggestion regarding the shop. * Put more and bigger pictures of the items you sale. I know they are well designed and trustworthy products, so I will buy them always. But not everyone knows this. * Without looking at their ...

Quick update... All good.
I guess it was the RTV.

If the problem appears again I will update the thread, but for now... SOLVED!