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Its decided someone is going to have to mount it on the ceiling, ,, sounds like an awesome idea. Definetly different, and would be cool as hell

Here's a pic from the inside looking at the door mechanics doors_inside.jpg I am having a few issues with the bronze rollers and its not quite as smooth as I would like it, might have to change or improve a few things as far as the space I do get the full length available, but the doors are at a 70 ...

So I thought I would show what Ive been working on. Well since adding the hood, thought I might as well just enclose the whole thing. Started on building the doors, wanted something different, its a pretty far out there design. They slide out sideways, I have a dc motor and timing belt mounted up ...

I had to get rid of those blue led lights and go with the white ones, they just didn't work out so well. With the smell of burnt plastic running through out the house when I was printing, added a exhaust hood. Not my best work by far. But atleast its something. Used one of those computer muffin fans ...

I dont know david, if I would take Dhaykus0418 deal , with that profile picture, I would hate to see what "Perhaps we can work out something." exactly is.

Thought I would post a small video of it running ,, blue led lights dont help much , might have to change them to white leds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCJqlfGZDgo

I had the same issue ,and could never find the solution until I changed the computer. I had mach3 on an old computer and once I changed the computer the slant went away..

Hahaha ahh man ,, my wifes been trying to push me into the basement for years .. Thats why I have been taking my sweet ol time refinishing it. She cant stand all my stuff sitting in my office area. Just your area looks exactly what I picture what I'll get stuck with... On a side note, I too have ...

Well I was able to solve the issue with only one side heating up ,, the screw type connector that I had solder to the board for running the wires to was bad, soldered a new one on , now both sides heat up, what was throwing me off, was the fact I forgot to account for the resistance from the led ...

where did you get your filament?

Run your nozzle around 255 degrees celius. Print speed looks ok , except for the non print moves, which is too fast. Your Z axis is too slow, you have too long of a pause when it needs to raise. Either your "steps per mm" is too low for your extruder, or your fill density is too low, because its ...

1.3 ohms with it all wired up,,, 12.25 V coming out of the power supply ,, using around a 14 guage wire from power supply ,and 2 positive and 2 negative strands of 16 gauge coming from ramps to the heatbed, using ramps I get about 10.88 to 10.93 V to the board. well I decided to test if one side was ...

WOw!! that thing is beautiful .... and huge .. But the price , any chance you guys going to be offering an el-cheapo bargain build kit? Trying to figure out how I can sneak this one past the wife is going to be tuff

For the life of me I cant figure out why I cannot get the temperature above 70 degrees celius on the heatbed. This is the first time I have been finally able to used it. I have 2.6 ohms on both sides of the board (I dont know if this is correct). I have tried it straight from the power supply to ...

Errr i mean "peace" ray.
I know! Earthquake machine, ,, can't wait to unlease it on my neighborhood

death ray? , ok perhaps a CNC laser cutter

I had a set of these , and wow are they a pain in the rear to get off, I think I ended up messing one up. If you cant make a puller to pry them off, then I would cut them off. Beating them out and your asking for trouble. Suprised no one makes a little puller for these. Who knows maybe someone does?

Well I have cooked two of my stepsticks. Apparently there is an issue I'm having between Marlin and slicer I think. For some reason if I put say 20mm or 30mm for speed I get some really high numbers in my Gcode for Feed, Like F11,700. And when the program runs on the printer, its crazy fast and jams ...

Here's a picture of it finished ... I did zip off a print the other day and it went pretty good, except for the new extruder, it jammed a couple of times, probably have the gears to tight or something. Everything is mounted to the printer,ie ramps, power supply so I dont have to lugg around anything ...

in order to zero your axis , just reset the emergency mode by hitting the [reset] button, and then hit the button [zero] next to each axis you want to home and it will zero out, its the button between the [ref all] and the digital display

Yeah , I dont know how its gonna affect the print speed, but I'll take quality or speed. But I'm getting ready to run some test to see how it will sortly. I'll try and post a video if I can.

Spent a week trying to get all the axis aligned perfect, but one side of my z-axis was giving me a heck of a time. And I just couldnt get it to work without jamming, , tore it apart only to find the acme screw was drilled and taped off-center , at $2.00 a pop think the quality would of been better ...

To be totally honest with you guys, I don't see much of a difference at all between old frame and the new one minus the color. I never had an issue with the clear frame, but thought I would still go ahead upgrade. But as far as flex and stiffness, its pretty much exactly the same. Except for looking ...

underneath view

Added the lcd for ramps ,, still got more work to do, waiting on the new extruder and still have to finish up with the limit switches. Don't ask about the screws on the lcd mount, nothing like spending time making something only to discover you measured wrong, and you sure don't feel like starting ...