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It could just be it snagging on something though. Have you tried running the print again and staying around for it to see what happens? Or maybe recording it with a phone or webcam if you're busy.

You don't have to update the firmware, the older versions work just fine. I just like some of the newer features. That is true, the steppers assume they haven't skipped steps. I said to disable always check endstops because sometimes EMF from the motors/heaters can cause false a false trigger of the...

I'd guess that either you're getting cross talk (interference from motors or heaters) on an endstop or two at some point and it is causing it to trigger and skew, or your motors are skipping a few steps, getting caught on something. Make sure the bowden tube and wiring aren't getting caught on anyth...

Try this out

Ok, ill upload a proper confog here shortly. The endstops are wired slightly differently.

Im betting the endstops are wired NO. Send M119 and it should tell you if they are triggered or not. If they are then some firmware changes are needed. Do the carriages move the correct direction?

It is the Horizontal Rod radius at 0.0. Looks like its good.

I prefer the mechanical connection of a screw or clamping mechanism. Don't get too worked up, the Zortax has a proprietary firmware without a lot of the safety features implemented in newer versions of Repetier and Marlin. If that machine were running Repetier I have 99.9% certainty that what happen...

No, as in Repetier has that feature implemented through the LCD. Its a stock feature. It can't be accessed outside of that menu.

I made a basic config with this tool http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/ Be careful when uploading this, I'm not entirely sure about your configuration, it seems that you have a Diamond or something funky set up. Try uploading it and seeing if things start to behave a little better. You can chang...

Thats a special feature. Its an illegal move except in a firmware implemented exception.

You're also fighting loosing torque, and the stock EZstruder doesn't have much torque to give in the first place. The QR should help, also the fittings are a lot better (thats where most of the tube flex comes from on a stock MAX). Its a lot more $$$ though, might be cheaper to try the airstruder fi...

Your symptoms are quite interesting. I'm not sure what is going on. I just uploaded the firmware I built onto a spare RAMPS board I had and plugged in my LCD. The LCD works, I don't have any motor drivers to test if the motors work, but all the EEPROM variables work fine. I noticed I accidentally sw...

Thats the trick isn't it. I'm not sure, I don't have the new carriages, the older ones are much easier to worry about. Perhaps you could design a bracket that clamps onto the existing arm mount with a hole to attach a strap to? Thats sort of what the fly-n-strude from trick laser does.

Ive done it with a redesign of the EZstruder mounted on my printers arms, but an airstruder with the EZstruder should help you. The main problem is the hysterisis that comes up (flex in tube and filamemt) because its so long. A geared extruder would do a lot but shorter tubes go a long way

I think if they had a better mounting solution for the thermistor this would be a non issue (also most modern firmwares have thermal runaway protection which should stop this from happening in 99% of the failures, repetier has panicked at me just because a heated bed couldnt keep temp or my hotend o...

Lots of hotend and printer manufacturers use 3mm filament (Ultimaker, Lulzbot). The problem you describe isn't unique to 3mm filament, and it likely jammed before it dug the whole. Its likely due to a problem that occurred with the hotend. If you mean Nylon and the like when you say "hot plasti...

The power resistors are quite fragile, and if you are not very careful when assembling the hotend (IE if there is a small pocket of air next to one of them) they can build up too much heat and rupture. The cartridges are so much more robust, and I'm sort of disappointed that SeeMe still hasn't desig...

Motors should be fine from like 5V to 30V I think. I don't think mhackney has an all 24V system, he goes for the safety of a relay controlled bed. I do have a mostly 24V system on my X3 Pro, but the heaters/fans/LEDs rail is on a separate 5A power supply, and my bed draws less current (TAZ 5 silicon...

One of the resistors may have burned out. Both in parallel should measure 3.4 ohms.

Your problem is right up at the top, EEPROM_MODE should be any value between 1 and 255. 0 disables EEPROM. I would just set it to 1. All the EEPROM_MODE means is if its > 0 then it is enabled, and it stores the value in EEPROM. Then if you reupload the firmware with a different EEPROM_MODE value (sa...

The airstruder should work without modification, the motor gets clamped onto the mount (no screw holes). In practice it might prove to be different though.

I would, but I dont have a laser cutter (unfortunately).

The Mattercontrol setting likely doesnt do anything. I'd recommend using the LCD interface (set z 0 in config menu)

Where are you getting your firmware from? Can you post the config.h file thats apart of it?