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Its a strange one. Probably some little thing causing all the fuss.

I'm putting a PT100 on one of my deltas today in fact, just as a reference point. Should be interesting.

Yeah, I've had a pre-production one for a few weeks (since before MRRF). I am getting the production parts soon so I can comment on the actual production unit. Now that we've sorted the retract speed issue and I'm able to do retracts up to 25mm/s I am getting some nice looking parts. It really is a ...

If you are getting jamming printing PLA then 1) don't expect a PT100 or themocouple to be miracle cure and 2) you have some other issue and my bet would be on too long of retracts or too high extrusion temperatures but there are many other reasons too. An E3D V6 can print PLA reliably all day every ...

One thing you can try is to feed the filament by hand and try to determine if you feel anything odd or if it takes excessive force. This is usually a good approach if you've routinely fed by hand to test so you have a feel for the force required but it's still worth doing if not.

It sounds like you should completely disassemble and look at everything under magnification - especially the heat sink internals. With 5mm retract, you were pulling filament up into the heat break. Not that this is your issue but 5mm is a lot of retract for this hot end on a typical Rostock Max Bowd...

I just posted on my blog: Understanding Probing and Trigger Z Height Why is this interesting? The simple answer is "So you get perfect first layer heights." Although this was written with RepRapFirmware in mind, he principles apply to any firmware that supports Z probing including Repetier...

It should be able to touch off Z=0. But, if that's all you want to do, why bother?

On RAMBo the issue IS NOT support for FSRs. With the JohnSL board, FSRs look exactly like a simple endstop switch probe. Exactly. So follow Repetier's guidelines for setting up an endstop probe. The issue is the firmware support to actually use the probing data to calculate delta calibration paramet...

Or use ABS filament that way you can dissolve it out with acetone if it gets stuck.

Yes, the spring is the way to go. I got a set of springs for tube bending from MicroMark and they work great.

You can edit all of the config files in the web interface and even create and edit macro files.

I should have said I pulled out the file names and linked to the WiFi version. That's what most of us here use, at least at this time.

Versin 1.18 now available: https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/tree/dev/Release/Duet-WiFi/Stable Release notes from David - READ THE UPGRADE NOTES, there are changes that you will need to make from previous versions. There is a preferred order to do the upgrade (unique to this version, 1.19 will ...

Great, can you PM me your email and I'll send it on to her please.

Thanks Brian, first she needs the step file! I'm looking of CAD designers who can do that for her.

Cool, I will PM you with her email after I run it by her. Thanks.

I'm helping a friend who has a product idea and needs a CAD model drawn up. I simply don't have the time. I know there are freelancers out there and I recommended she check out Cadcrowd but they came back with a quote much higher than I thought and out of her budget. Anyone have any contacts - espec...

Set screws on the pulleys on the stepper motors. You may think they are tight but you may not have one of the screws on the flat of the stepper shaft. Been there, done that and it is hard to diagnose. But since you have done everything else, it's a place to look. And as Gene asked, can you correlate...

There are other issues though, the molten plastic "die swells". Die swelling is a function of a lot of things and nozzle diameter is one of them. Your dimensions will be off a bit in finished parts. For my parts, that would cause problems, for a Yoda statue it wouldn't. Of course, the smal...

Gage wires is the best way. Get a set of tiny metric drills and use the shaft side as the gage or buy a specialty set. And as Xenocrates correctly stated, you can not drill precise holes with a standard drill. If you don't have reamers, drill undersize and sneak up on it in at least 2 increments. No...

I have 2 - one came off my V3 and has had little use. PM me with an offer I can't refuse. If you are in the US I can ship 2-3 day priority for $5.25.

It's got a few rows of headers but I don't have docs for them.

photo links broken, please repost.

626Pilot wrote:Formlabs' high-temp resin is rated for 289C at 0.45MPa. I wonder how it would stand up to thousands of shots of ABS. According to this, it is recommended for injection molding, and also not recommended for injection molding!

That does and doesn't contradict itself.