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Hi Teoman, I'm not rich compared to the average American, I'm about average income for the UK The Rostock Max was the single most expensive thing I purchased in 2013. I bought it for fun, I have a couple of business ideas for the software side 3D printing, but they are pipe dreams for now. Tinkering...

Thanks Gene, I really appreciate your help over the years trying to get this working, sorry it was probably a waste of time!! Given that SeemeCNC endorsed CreativeMachines as legitimate distribution partners here on this forum, I do feel a bit ripped off. Does anyone know the exact spec for Max v2 t...

No Offence Taken Jim, I'm still not printing consistently after 160 posts and the collective wisdom of all the experts here, so please, don't you or anyone else waste your time going over my build logs again! The reason I have doubts about continuing to troubleshoot my build is because Jon says he c...

Hi Polygonhell, I know now that the UK distributed Rostock Maxes were not at all the same machine as that of the Kickstarter, or USA retail edition. Re pics/description: Over 160 posts from me, many with pictures - mostly about this machine: http://forum.seemecnc.com/search.php?author_id=673&sr=...

Hi, this is a request for advice and opinions from the Rostock Max community: I've been trying for over two years to get my Rostock Max v1 UK edition working, at this point I'm wondering: Should I try to fix it? Rebuild it? bin it? I bought it from the now defunct Creative Machines in the United Kin...

Haha, the search for the perfect tub! I spent a ages looking for a container big enough for a fat and reel and small enough to fit on top of the printer. In the end the best one I found was at my local 99p store (That's a $1.65 store at today's exchange rate) http://familyplastics.com/house-hold/Air...

Thanks Eaglezsoar, Good advice as always, but this troubleshooting is going round in circles! I went through the jumper settings issues back in february: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4161&start=70" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Motherboard issues w...

Hmm, interesting - as Eaglesoar suggested, the fact that chugging stops when there is no filament suggests more likely a hot end problem. Anyhow - the board overheating issue is ruled out! - one of the first mods I made was a big 40mm fan over the ramps board though, so I know it's cool! The only di...

No chugging if i print dry.. Yes, the hotend is definitely bad, But I think the problem is not as simple as replacing it (which I will have to do) I think the problem is, that I can't find working settings, so I am probably slowly killing the hardware because there's no known firmware config for the...

I'm using the EZstruder, I have a spare steve's extruder that I no longer use.

P.S. the main problem I had measuring temperature is that the marlin reported temperature and real-world measurements have different curve profiles, and I have never really known which curve to use in firmware - what tallies at 100deg does not tally at 200deg . I am of course using all stock seemecn...

Hi Gene, I always use a peek fan, the machine was not shipped with one though. I also bought a replacement peek fan from seemecnc just to be sure I am using exactly the right amperage and specification. I have purchased two different types of thermocouple to test the reported temperature at the hot ...

I totally agree with the "solve one problem at a time" ethos Gene. I'm unsure about upping my temp too much - for two reasons: 1: sometimes the machine prints ok for about an hour or two at 180 - 190 - this is the manufacturer's temp recommendation, and I am using premium filament. 2: I fe...

I retuned the pid and it's still chugging, temperatures are still up and down a lot. As usual my PID values seem wildly different to last time and totally inconsistent. I don't think it's a low temperature issue. When I extrude in to free air I am still getting chugging even as I nudge the temperatu...

So - I did a few more experiements and I think the temperature seems to be oscillating roughly once minute, anything up to +/- 10 degrees. It's new... I wonder what's causing that?? BAd thermistor curve I guess, although it was working for a while after I replaced the thermistor and recalibrated I w...

Once more I am trying to get my Rostock Max V1 working. I gave up again for a few months.. Recent repairs in February were a new hot end thermistor, crimp terminals on the wiring and new ptc connectors on the bowden. So... Now I find that I often get a chugging noise on the extruder motor - which I ...

Chipping in with totaly unexperimented idea here: Could capacitance be used for calibration?? Capacitive touch screens work by measuring a change in capacitance when a conductive object (metal nozzle?) touches the screen (glass build plate?) This is done by putting a capacitive layer under the glass...

Just copypasting my post from a couple of threads up as it could be of use in answering a couple if questions on this thread: If you are really bored waiting for slic3r to slice and you think it may have hung you can do this: select "show work directory" from the File menu of Repetier (alt...

If you are really bored waiting for slic3r to slice and you think it may have hung you can do this: select "show work directory" from the File menu of Repetier (alt+w) look at the file size of "composition.gcode" (assuming you have the windows folder set to view "details&quo...

Are you using Windows? I don't know for sure if this is your issue, but there is a bug in windows slic3r that means that sometimes you make changes to settings, and it won't get updated or saved properly. The workaround is to use the arrow buttons to change the values, after which the values do get ...

Hi Nitewatchman: in the slic3r config panel, go to the "Print Settings" tab, then under "speed", look for the "gap fill" setting. This will allow you to alter the speed of the oscillation or turn it off etc.. Here is the description: Speed for filling small gaps using s...

1ggy To share my observations about Silica gel: I do put a small indicating silica gel pouch in and as I seal the unit and each time the packet has gone blue in about a day! I am using ultra high quality dutch filament delivered vacuum-sealed. I can only guess that the filament ships at around 40% h...

Just sharing this for your benefit: I wondered if filament humidity might be contributing to my bad prints, so I made this: spool.jpg It is made from: 1 x Large circular airtight food container - placed upside down on top of the printer. 1 x Plastic Lazy suzan cut down to a 5 inch diameter glued to ...

Thanks this is just the sort of advice I am looking for. I really couldn't think of a name for what I need. I found I had to do something to get the proscribed number of ATX power wires into the terminals The wire bundles were just too fat and squishy to stay in otherwise... Yeah I have been using t...

16.JPG Old photo, but it shows the terminal blocks to the right. The issue I noticed is: for the power, I need to combine loads of yellow leads from the psu For the heated bed I nead to use really fat copper wire I twist and solder tin the strands, but to satisfy the requirements for pwer and resis...