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I've had really good luck printing high strength parts out of Atomic's Carbon Fiber PETG (https://www.seemecnc.com/products/1-75mm-carbon-fiber-atomic-filament-petg-1kg-spool). Lots easier to print than nylon, great layer adhesion, and insane strength. Just make sure you get your temp up to 250 to p...

Which power supply you use doesn't matter, but remember that you'll be pulling close to 20 amps through it, so it'll need to be a beefy one. All of them should have their voltage and amperage ratings written on them. You're looking for 12-14V and at least 19 amps to run everything without issues. Th...

Does this only happen in mattercontrol? What happens if you set the temperature manually on the LCD?

The only way to adjust the wattage is to turn up the voltage on the power supply. When you're heating it's already driving the hot end as hard as it can. If you end up doing this, you should be OK to go to about 14 volts.

Then it sounds like you've got a heater cartridge that's bad. Check it's resistance. It's probably too high, and ohms law plays no favorites.

Regarding it coming down high on the plate, you probably need to adjust your Z probe height in the EEProm. If the print head is too high, you want to increase the value in the EEProm, then run the calibration again. If it's sitting 0.3mm too high when it's printing, add 0.3 to the value, re-probe, a...

At a guess, it's because the firmware assumes you have the 40W heater cartridge from the HE280, and the E3D comes with a 30W cartridge. Try PID tuning your hot end and see if that fixes you problem.

M303 P0 S250 X0 //Replace 250 with whatever your Max print temperature is

Sounds like you've got a problem with your endstop wiring. You can troubleshoot them by following the steps in this guide: https://seemecnc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/a ... ing-Issues

The easy way to fix the problem (assuming you've got the newer hot end with the probe) is to connect with MatterControl (or whatever) and open a terminal. Run M502, M500, G29. This will reset the EEProm to stock values, Save, then calibrate to set your endstops, z height, and horizontal radius.

Check your bed height the entire way around the bed. It should feel uniform. If you've got some areas that are higher than others, you probably have some of your bed supports flipped up-side-down. If you can see any marks from the ejector pins on the bed supports looking down from the top, those are...

Even better. JJ posted the STL for the mount to repables: https://repables.com/r/861/

Image attached.

I've got a Titan Aero with the accel board on an H2. Works great, but you have to remove the silicon cover from the nozzle when you probe.

The heatsink fan gets a constant current, it's not under pwm control. Putting a resistor inline would be the easiest way to quiet it down. I've regularly run my rostock power supply at 14V with no problem.

It's possible to use a FSR, but you're gonna have to hack into the code to make it work as the current version of the firmware has been customized to run the HE280. If you want to do it, you'll want to comment out anywhere that's looking for the the accellerometer.

Looks like screwing in your X tower endstop screw would get the endstops close enough to avoid the error.

1. Double check the wiring in your whip connector and on the connectors going into the rambo. Specifically, check the order of the green and white wires. If the thermister wires are backwards, it's going to cause problems. Also, is the heatsink fan coming on when you turn on the machine? When it's p...

Do you have a barrel fan blocker installed? If not, you can print one (http://repables.com/r/828/) or buy one (https://www.seemecnc.com/products/barrel-fan-blocker) and you've got good odds that it'll solve your problem.

Also, what gcode are you sending to do your PID tune?

You can swap the pins for E0 and E1 in pins.h, then plug in to E1 if you want to test that. The rambo will still call it E0

I would also go back to using PLA to test it to lower the number of variables in testing

Take a close look at your second extruder. Make sure it is gripping the material well and doesn't have bits of it stuck in the gear teeth. If that still looks fine, try heating up the hot end and doing a few tool changes... does it have the same problem?

Is your PVA properly dried out? I've had issues with it when it's absorbed too much moisture. Drying it out in an over (or a filament dryer if you happen to have one) can solve this issue. Not to say that it couldn't be something else, but that's what fixed my problems with it. Also assuming you're ...

If you're willing to build the printer, the H2 is the same price and a much more capable printer. I'd recommend it way more than an Eris.
https://www.seemecnc.com/products/h2-de ... rinter-kit

Sounds like a slicing error. Please post what slicer and settings you are using.

Known bug when using Octoprint to control a Rostock over usb with dual extrusion enabled. We're crazy with out move right now, but the short fix is to print from the SD card and shut down the PI. It'll print right every time.