Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Not the best pics..

Held drill in a pin vise and hand turned it in until I got all the plastic out-no power.
Fan on heat sink is running.

Ok,
how do I "torch the thing clear" for future reference?

Gene, I disassembled the hot end and cleaned the heat break with .068 drill, reassembled everything, and started over. I deleted the config-override.G file and the heightmap.csv file. I reran the Firstprobe macro. I also replaced the ezr drive gear thinking maybe that was worn. I tried again printin...

Gene,
I did 4 different cold pulls bringing heat to 250 c and letting it cool to 100c. I still cannot see light when looking down through filament path with a bright flashlight aimed up through nozzle.
Also tried slowing down to 80% on printing speed-same problem.

The temp. that is shown on web display of printer shows 235 deg.( also is the set temp. in S3D)
Yes I see a notch on filament from it spinning on it.

ok, I checked all connections. I resliced the part in S3D with the Artemis profile I got off this website. All default settings. The part printed about 1/2" off bed this time and stopped extruding plastic again. The hot end was at 235 deg. (according to software) and the ez struder is turning b...

Gene,
no I was trying to convey that the ez struder is working normally. Not clicking/skipping like when the hot end is too cold. When I have found the failed prints the hot end has been at the set temperature 235 ABS and 215 PLA. according to the software.

By fail I mean it just stops laying down plastic. Temperature is good on hot end and bed. There is no noise coming from the ez struder-(like when its too cold down at hotend) Forgot to mention before that I have run my filament rolls in a dehydrator for over 24 hours to rule out moisture. I will dou...

Hi, I did the 3.2 upgrade and also upgraded to the 350 watt heated bed last year. Have been amazed how much better, smoother, and quieter the printer is with the upgraded S300 hot end. I have printed over a hundred parts with it. It's been super reliable. Recently I started having known good {-as in...

Printed the parts from this Thingiverse project: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796438 Used 6mm Luan subfloor for panels, 1 piece of Lexan for window in door. Total of about $40 including a can of white paint. Used garage door foam sealing tape around door. Aluminum duct tape on all interior pan...

Hi, I have tried several times to print Proto-Pasta Silver Smoke HTPLA on my V3 and have had problems with adhesion. So far I have stayed with standard PLA settings like they recommend. I have tried with bed heat both on and off. I use the purple glue stick on bed after cleaning with alcohol. All pr...

Before thinking about dual extrusion as some sort of panacea, you should go and read some of the older dual extrusion threads on the board. We are starting to see some viable dual extrusion solutions now, but the classic put two nozzles next to each other solution is more pain than it's worth unles...

Jim, I've had some success with similar features designing in single nozzle width walls supporting the perimeter and the edge of the hole, then removing them with scissors, diagonal cutters, needlenose pliers, files, or whatever other tools are convenient. The ultimate in good surface finish on sup...

PLA is notoriously difficult to remove support from, ABS is a lot better. I've messed around with support in slicers for years and always been dissatisfied with the results, I do still occasionally print things with suport. People will rave about Simplify 3D's easy to remove support material, but i...

I use Camworks solids so it's easy enough to convert an .stl back to a solid model, edit and save back to .stl format. Good idea, thanks.

If you feel like configuring a new slicer, you can try craftware. It has customizable supports similar to s3d, but also has some control over how the support actually gets laid down. From what I can tell based on the settings, it modfifies the extrusion rate and travel speed to make sparser support...

For critical parts the only way (imo) to get good support is to design it into the part (and only after you've explored other design options that do not require support). Jonathan Rocholl's "zipper" support for the mini kossel ball bearing carriages is a great example. It zips off a criti...

OK,maybe a better question to you guys with lots of experience printing would be, do you have a rule of thumb when you look at a part that you know right off that you will need support material? Say for instance if the part has thin sections or small diameter weak features? I'm sure this would vary ...

I've done a few prints now with our new V3. Most of them good. A couple of big fails. I have noticed that the support structure is difficult to remove from prints-what settings will make it easier to remove? I am using Mattercontrol 1.5.-Larger or smaller interface layer? Pattern spacing? Thanks for...

@pswindler: Worked great. Got Octopi working tonight and am printing a test with the PLA profile that was in a thread posted by mhackney.
Thanks again.

Beautiful! Thanks.

That would be great, thanks.

Great, I was hoping it was for the pi. In step #12 in the guide an arrow points to a Micro USB for power. Where does it connect to Rambo?

Can someone tell me what this is for? Seems to be an extra included with my V3 kit.

Hi, I just finished building my Max V3 on Saturday. I have been watching the progress of the Max since V1. It is my first 3d printer so I am a total noob. I am a CNC programmer/machinist by trade-30+ years now (yikes!). I have an 11 year old daughter that assisted some with the build, and a 14 year ...