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Clearly you are not following the directions. I am thinking you have not put the endstop screws back in?

Hi, Here is a link to the original build manual with a good section on Repetier setup and calibration procedure. Go through the calibration setup a few times . Once you understand how a delta is leveled relative to the bed then all makes sense.

http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... dition.pdf

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, You say that SeeMeCNC doesn't play "those games". What games are those? Sending a printer to someone that could influence the decision of multiple potential buyers? That's just throwing a bunch of free marketing away, isn't it?. /quote] Perhaps this type of youtube big name would sell s...

I will start checking the wiring. The thing was such a pain to put together that I've avoided taking anything apart at all. I'm super limited on free time between work and family stuff so had my fingers crossed that it was software I'm thinking, if you thought the thing was a pain to put together (...

, I would have expected *someone* to review the Rostock for the price range that it is at. None of the big names on YouTube have done reviews on it. Most of the "big names" on YouTube are there because manufacturers give them the machines for free to review and they are good at yakking. I...

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Dampers can have an effect. If you are getting dust and the motors are twisting you may actually have the belts too tight. This will cause binding and on a delta even one belt binding will cause grief.

Def can also mean that it believes the temperature is decoupled, meaning that it's pumping in more heater power, and not seeing a temperature response. So if you have the center of the bed uncovered (where the thermistor is), and fans blowing, the thermistor can lose heat rapidly, and cause a decou...

Hi baba, > the 'def' signal means that the thermistor is not returning a valid signal to the control board. It's either an open circuit or a dead short. Since it falls outside of the acceptable range, the board shuts down the heater circuit to prevent runaway thermal damage. Note that if either the ...

I would agree with some mechanical play, probably not your settings except for speed. Make sure everything is tight. Make sure your hotend itself doesn't have any play. Print again slow, make your adjustments at that speed, then once you have a good print try speeding it up. What machine do you have?

Yup, those are ugly outline perimeters. Did you want me to tell you that you should ask a question?

Using a thermocouple will require modifying the firmware and wiring. I've done this on a pre-V3. Basically you have the thermocouple, which has a 'polarity' and must be wired the right direction, it goes to a signal amplifier board, and then you connect power ground and signal wires from the amp to...

If you connect the wires together that will create a dead short and surely blow a fuse. You are connecting a positive to a negative, a real no-no and if the fuse wasn't there for protection the wires would burn and possibly cause a fire. If this is a stock V2 and you are not using a peek fan then yo...

drewaustin wrote:

joe wrote:Your post does not make sense.

What's your malfunction Joe? I'm just looking for help and you post garbage like this?

Touchy. I merely stated I could not make sense of what the content of the post implied. I'm sorry you took offence.

Your post does not make sense.

I found this post. Sounds like what you want to achieve but doesn't use the he280 board.

viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9418&p=80586&hilit=Case#p80900

Xenocrates wrote:Those are usually a sign of imperfect retractions, as there is a little debris on the nozzle, and as it wipes off onto the part, it gradually moves against the build direction as it builds up on the side it approaches from.

I have to disagree. I believe it is temperature issue.

Awesome!
https://www.simplify3d.com/software/rel ... ion-4-0-0/

I usually try for 6 layers on a flat surface and up 12 for a curved top finish

As long as you're holding a steady temperature at your target temp you are good to go.

Sorryyouarehavingaproblem maybeelaborateonwhathappenswhenyouflickontheswitch

Does the extruder even spin backward when a retraction occurs? Shoot a quick video of the extruder during retraction. I'd like to see it in action.

When the firmware detects a broken signal from one of the thermisters it will display DEF. It has nothing to do with the heat settings. It is a bad thermistor or a break in the wiring, if only for a second.

If there was an issue obtaining the desired temp then DEC (decoupled) would be displayed.

Can you say "retraction setting" and "over extrusion" ?