Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Thank you
Much appreciated.
J.

Hi all,
Does the Accelerometer have to be a aligned in any way with the E3D head?
It seems that its the case with the HE280 (as per instructions one side is aligned with the flat of the heated end) but there isn't any guidance for other heads?
Thanks in advance,
J.

All, Its fixed. A new Fotek SSR 100DD and it works as advertised. Yet to stress test it but it comes on when the bed requests it and goes off when its up to temperature. Now to stress test the Fotek and the PSU along with the new 24V bed. Thanks for everyones help, such a friendly, useful forum here...

Measured across solder points on the bed I get 0V when they are connected to the Rambo though I get 11.27V so close enough to 12v not to matter. The Resistance of both beds is around 1.2 ohms. Not measured the amps running through it yet as I only have a 10A Amp Meter so need to get one that can mea...

So, I changed the SSR to a DC to DC one. 3-32V in 5-110V out and rated to 60A. Its this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009AQN9CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Different issue. SSR still comes on buy there is no heat at the bed. Checked all connectors and 24V is being pro...

Not the one I used anyway. To be honest will be keeping an eye on the replacements. I have order 2 different ones, both from reputable suppliers (significantly more expensive too) and both supposedly handle 60 and 100 amps respectively so hoping now I have a proper DC to DC on the way it'll be fine....

I have only just noticed.
My SSR is DC in to AC Out. I think that might be the issue.
Looks like ordering a DC -> DC one and seeing if that fixes it
Jason.

Hi Dwight,
I am seeing a steady 12V at the SSR input.
The LED On the SSR is also lighting and goes off at the set temperature too.
So, I don't think its the input of the SSR that is the issue sadly.
Thanks,
Jason.

Hi all, Issues with my 24v Heated bed. Have set it up as per the picture below but have the same issue whether I use 12v or 24v beds (have a V3 24V Bed as well as the standard bed that came with the printer). So what happens is: 1. Switch on Printer, 2. Switch on Switched 24V PSU, 3. Set a temperatu...

Thanks Xeno,
Thats what I thought.
The resistor I had in mind is in that range too.
I just wanted to make sure I don't blow anything and check my understanding.
Thanks

Hi all, Long time reader, first time poster here. I built my V2 only around 4 months ago but took this long to sort out a faulty log in here. I also want to upgrade to a faster heating bed so the 24V route seems to be the right one. To do that I have bought a 24V 25A 600W PSU, a 24-280V 40A SSR and ...