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No one wants to pay high prices for a used printer, I get that. So, as an alternative, I would remove the Duet board and the display. I would return the original V3 display and the Rambo board. I would not spend the time to get everything running again on the Rambo, but it ran before, should have th...

So I did some work on the girl. Added FSR leveling. Still need to pass her on though. I normally get around .06 on glass. RepRapFirmware for Duet WiFi Firmware Electronics: Duet WiFi 1.0 Firmware Version: 1.18.1 (2017-04-09) WiFi Server Version: 1.03 (ch fork) Web Interface Version: 1.15a Decent pri...

This is probably not a problem, but in your config.g file, the M350 command for setting microstepping is missing the Z motor.

What would shipping be to mesa, Az?

pics?

So many new developments, It could be time to get rid of the old printer to make way for the new. My printer started out life as a V2. It has been upgraded with: E3D hot end Ir leveling probe Duet Wifi V3 frame Mosfet for the bed heater Trick laser mini carriages 713 maker effector frame Duel extrud...

Are the printers in the same room? Same airflow? printing ABS does create fumes but usually not so precisely directed that you smell it all the time. The more important detail is about the print quality. If the print quality is good, then add some ventilation to remove fumes. If there are quality is...

Check the belt tension and check for any binding or belt dust. Check for any loose or misaligned hardware. Sometimes these things can present like bed tilt.

It looks like some of the lines overlap the perimeters and some don't. Unfortunately there is not always a simple answer. Due to the randomness of the end lines I might suggest you try changing the temperature you are printing this filament. Does your first layer look the same way? What type of fila...

The Bowden tube is seated and the tube locks are installed. I am using a bondtech extruder, it is not clicking or grinding.

My prints are pretty uniform, nothing that would indicate there is a jamming problem.

In the advanced options of S3D are options to set slicer offsets for each axis. maybe you have a number in the Z box.

I will just add my situation to this thread, since it is relevant. I finally got my V2 to V3 conversion printing decent walls and now it is on to retraction tuning. References for this test are : https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/retraction-just-say-no-to-oozing https://www.simplify3d.com/suppo...

I was having a similar problem, i am assuming you are printing with PLA. It would not be the case with all types or brands, but ultimately I found I was printing at too high a temperature. I did regularly print at 210, now I am printing at 190 and getting better results. Especially at the first layer.

I think I see where my misunderstanding was. After more reading on G codes and some experiments I found that the G31 Z trigger number is not live data. I am probably going to state this improperly, but based on my current level of understanding, The Z trigger height parameter is used during auto cal...

Following mhackney's posts and Duet instructions, etc. I have my IR probe setup and working mostly. My config looks like this: ; Z probe and compensation definition M558 P1 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F600 T2400 ; grid compensation M557 R110 S15 G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.6 ; Set the zprobe offset and threshold (determine y...

Here is my current map:
And my step adjustments:

M92 X80 Y81.0 Z79.0

Ok, sorry I did not wait for a reply. Here is a new map after changing my Z motor counts to 79:
Is this normal? Is there some other mechanical issue that might be causing this? Belt tension perhaps?

Or should I be looking to replace that stepper motor?

So this is fun. Here is a picture of my current height map: map.jpg This is after G32 calibrations. I rotated my print surface and the map came out the same. So it seems I have an issue with my Z tower, but not exactly sure what. Axis compensation perhaps. But I am thinking this problem has persiste...

I switched it out for a Meanwell supply (Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt)

It was upgrade time for my V2. On my list was MosFet for the heated bed, Duet controller, and maybe dual extrusion. The V2 electronics are buried in the base of course and Some disassembly would be required. Then I saw the SeeMeCnC dual extruder adapter and the path became clear. The V3 electronics ...

OK, so let's review. I installed the original E3D V6 and enjoyed months of printing. Then something occurred that started causing jams. All extruder parts were replaced and still the problem persisted. These were E3D parts, not clones. I did find out that not all bowden tubing is the same but ended ...

I checked the rotation of the extruder gear / shaft, no wobble. I think the dark area in the picture is just a shadow, when I shine a light on it there is no obvious mark. I did a small adjustment anyway, moving the gear out a bit. Ultimately no change. Back to the filament that clogs so well, high ...

I did a close watch on an aggressive print (lost of short back and forth movement) The temp was stable, the cooling fan stayed on the entire time. I moved the wiring around to see if I could cause a problem but nothing changed. Here are some pictures: I think my extruder is aligned properly IMG_1975...

Which wire?

This is a print that did not jam completely, pics of the printer parts coming soon...