Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Really looking forward to this.

Sanjay- what are the specs on the included water pump? What type of plug and voltage requirements does it have?

Is the percentage printed increasing or staying at 0? If it is staying at 0, the printer is waiting for both the hotend and heated bed to reach temperature. Once they hit the temperature in the Gcode they will begin to print. If the percentage is increasing I don't know the answer. What OS are you u...

You may still burn out the fan using the fan port on the Rambo. I believe the port is PWM which means that when you run at 40% you are still hitting it with 12V but only 40% of the time. With the PEEK fan there is little need to control it from the Rambo. If you have a regular computer supply you co...

I haven had any issues with mine either on the metal gears (not nearly as many hours as mhackney). But I do think the plastic gears will be a little more forgiving on slipping as there will be a larger contact patch to the belt versus the metal gears. Also due to the larger diameter they won't put a...

On your bearing insertion into the gears they are supposed to be recessed into the gear. When I first installed mine I went flush. This created friction and misalignment in the gears after assembly. I went back and used a socket to recess them and all the issues went away. Not sure if you checked to...

Excellent write-up as always. What I would warn is that if aluminum foil is used as a deflector, care has to be taken to prevent shorting of the resistors or thermistor. Don't want to damage the control board. I also found that the PEEK fan should be positioned on the opposite side that thermistor i...

I have a 25mm fan pointed at the PEEK section of my hotend. I plugged it directly into the power supply. It really doesn't need to be controlled by the Rambo. I will warn that you have to watch the airflow around the hotend as it will cool the nozzle also. I used some Kapton tape to act as a deflect...

You can upload the photos directly to the posts. When you are writing the post at the bottom there is an "upload attachments" tab. Use that to place the photos on the site server. I am not sure if there are size restrictions on the uploads.

Thanks for the answers. From those pictures it looks spot on. Congrats.

What material did you print it in? Did you measure it for accuracy? Did you use a scaling factor?

One thing you can do is to run the PID auto-tune again. It may not have a significant impact but if there was a modification made to the hot end, even an air flow change, it may need to be retuned. Hopefully, someone else will have a better idea.

What OS and Version are you running? Not sure if it will have an effect, but have you set up the printer settings in KISSlicer yet?

I have had issues with popping from the beginning. I did reduce a lot of it by eliminating retraction. However, recently it seems my prints have been getting more popping. I am experimenting with slightly lower temps for extrusion which has helped some but has not eliminated all of the pops. I do st...

Take good notes and pictures. I see another sticky as this has happened to a couple of RAMBO's. Always look forward to your write-ups.

@mhackney- I actually commissioned it to be built for me, but I normally build and design my own. It is my graphics on a Peter Lynn Ray. An article I wrote on it is located here on Gomberg kites. By the way it is 32' across and 80' long. One reason for the 3D printer is for custom kite fittings :-)

You need to measure the temp next to the brass nozzle. Preferably the inside of the nozzle to get the melt zone temperature. If the PEEK is at 225 you are risking melting it and destroying the PEEK.

They look pretty good. If you are still having problems with the " L" vertical you may want to take mhackney's advice on a fan. You could also slow your speed down. Either method has advantages and disadvantages. On thin tall structures, especially solid ones, heat builds up in the parts a...

I did read that some people had a problem with sharp teeth on the drive gear. That could damage the belt over time also.

Sorry didn't look at the patent. Pretty much what I had in mind. And yes I kind of did some back of the envelope calcs. I went with .5" balls because I thought I would get a slightly better magnetic field as the ball has less curve. The wax idea is a back end way of getting around a Teflon fric...

One of the thoughts I have on ensuring contact is to use wax from a candle and fill in the void between the ball and magnet. Maybe heat a ball to get a really good wax surface. I have looked at the patents and although they use a ball mill type of interface I still think a ring interface will give s...

I am still working the kinks out. I did have a slight bevel in some of the designs but was having problems with my layer adhesion. Part of it was orientation when printing. The last one showed the most promise as it had some really good centering characteristics. Thinking I might go with a thicker t...

When you say your arms swing freely did you check in both directions? E.g. up and down or side to side. The "side to side" swing is influenced by the pin to hole interface on the arms. This is corrected by "shaving" the hole on the arm. The up and down is the Ujoint to carriage o...

I know a couple of people, myself included, have been drooling over the berrybot magnet joints. So I decided to attempt one on my own. I did impose some limits to make it more accessible to the masses and something I can produce without purchasing any tools. I started with obtaining magnets and ball...

I am still refining a cup ball magnet setup. But I do plan on using carbon rods that I have on hand. I normally use them for building kites. Another option for rods are arrow shafts. Diameter wise I will probably select something about .25". Should give sufficient stiffness while having a good ...

When you did your calibration, did you have you heated bed at temperature? From your first post you said you are printing on plexi, it may warp at temp and can affect the zeroing process. Also take a straight edge and verify that the plexi is flat in all directions (when heated). Also when you adjus...