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Just out of curiosity, has anyone mounted a PT100 to their x5, or should i go back to the stock sensor if i go with the x5?

So i've been noticing an issue as of late, with not one, but two rostocks. First is a personal unit, second is a friend's. Both are v2's, one is slightly older, and has the older pin/axle style arms/carriages. Both have been upgraded to an E3d v6, and both are running 12v 30a PSU's, one of which is ...

I'm actually coming up on 12km with mine, and aside from issues with the filament drive train, in total: -burning out the resistors for the hotend -burning out the PEEK on the stock hotend after the thermistor popped out (oops), upgraded to e3d v6 -replacing the PTFE tubing -Upgrading the extruder t...

I was considering writing a guide, considering i'm dong a second install tomorrow, but i think you have a bit more of a grasp on the subject, so go for it.

Xeno,

Just got done with the mod, wound up changing EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE to 1, and changing the table to the data provided. Table seems to be extremely close, was getting 340 at 2.43v, so .01v difference. Changed the pin as you said, and boom, working like a charm. Thanks!

My current sheet has chips on both sides. Been printing for about 9mos, primarily PETG. Last chip removed itself when i tried to reposition some fablam. Think its just the name of the game, when you constantly heat and cool stuff

Right, so i'm tryin to get my printer a smidgeon over 300c. I have an e3d v6, so i bought a PT-100 thermo-something and the booster board from e3d. Go to install it...and i'm lost. Here's what i've done: -I've isolated a 5v, GND and signal connection on the board -Created a breakout cable from 2 ser...

My travel is at about 100 at the moment. I will probably try 250 or 300 on my next print to see what happens.

Ok, so i've tried thoroughly cleaning everything, increasing the z-hop to .1mm, retraction to 12mm, made sure there was a locking clip on the extruder bowden connector, and the only change is that now the plastic is clear instead of black. There's also a LOT of stringiness. Not sure what's going on,...

wow, i wasn't aware that was even a thing. Yeah, i have prints that are getting out to the edge. I'l slow down the travel speeds when the prints are big.

So i'm running into occasional print failures, usually about 4 hours or so into the print on a long print (12hrs or so). According to my hotend, the room i'm operating in is getting up to about 30 degrees c. Would this be enough to cause print failures? If so/not, what can i do to not waste 200g of ...

Ok, i recently switched over to cura from mattercontrol for comfort reasons. I turned on z-hop to .1mm, and moved retraction from .7 to .8. it'll take me a bit to figure out whether it changes anything, but i'll update if print quality improves. Thanks!

The platform is not melting, no. the plastic seems to just be coating the underside of the printer. I have not verified the temps with a meter.

Codon, i had actually already had a dual resistor failure and upgraded to a heater cartridge, which i can only assume was a 40w unit due to the equal performance. I'll look at the e3d wii on the firmware. Gene, not a clue why it popped out, it just looked like the plug of rtv just popped out as one ...

So i wound up having to replace every part of my printer hat touches filament. The extruder was upgraded to a printed unit for tpu, the bowden tube was replaced, and the nozzle was also replaced. So now i am running an e3d v6 on a 3d printed gantry, including an upgrade to the hotend platform with b...

Issue was the PTFE liner. Replaced it, worked for 5 minutes then the hotend melted. Posted a new thread, if you can answer a question about any firmware changes that might be required for an e3d v6 hotend

So, my rostock has been having a blessed week. By blessed, i mean by satan. Started off with TPU not printing due to a worn down PETG tube. Replaced the petg tube, printed an upgraded extruder for tpu, still works like crap. Replaced the PETG section in the hotend, and it worked perfectly! Walked ou...

What temperature are you using to print this stuff with? I would look at replacing the inner liner of the hotend, and putting a new nozzle in. With ABS, you could soak a nozzle in acetone for a while to help clean it, PLA you'd have to burn it out. TPU? I run TPU at 212, at 12mm/s using the Ninjafl...

My printer is no longer printing tpu with the .35mm printhead. I've tried running the "cleaning filament" through my printer, but it just takes so much force that the filament goes anywhere BUT down the tube to the hotend. Any help here? at this point, i'm looking at replacing the nozzle a...

Tried it. Couldn't get the affected side of the bowden tube out of the locking mechanism. Put the clip on both sides, no difference, the tube slides about a half centimeter to a centimeter within the tube, throwing off retraction.

So i'm noticing the bowden tube is slipping on my printer, on the extruder side connector. It moves up about a centimeter with each motion, meaning my retraction isn't actually doing any retracting. Do i need to cut off a small bit of the tube on the affected end, or replace the connector, or what d...

Did PID tune, did not replace, but did re-insert thermistor. I'll take a look and see if that's the case.

I was on the reprap forum, they were thinking it could be an airleak between the peek and metal bits, so i'll probably just print a holder and swap for a v6.

yes. Some filament is even pulled from packaging

So i have a rostock max v2. I managed to blow out both of the resistors a month or so ago, so i upgraded to a single 40w ceramic heater. Well, since then, i have been running into quality issues, specifically all of the filament i use bubbles. TPU is the worst, i've noticed at 12mm/s, quality is ok,...