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That is really interesting!

I wondered how it was coming about ;-) What's that extruder? Looking at pictures on their website I cannot figure out which one it is. And why is it wearing a "jacket"? Edit: ================================================ Hmmpf... Just read it's a BMG, just the lever looked longer in you...

My approach was to purchase an access point so the printer would have a dedicated network and thus not have to compete with DHCP (the router assigning IP addresses to devices). Adding an access point is meaningfull if your wifi signal is too low, but that does not seem to be the case here. Adding a...

I shut down Artemis and still got a reply from pinging 10.0.0.232 so it looks like a DHCP issue. However, I don't know which machine is using 10.0.0.232 so I can't change it on that end. Is there a way to set a static IP address on Artemis?. Find these lines in your onfig.g and change them (and unc...

Haha yes, I noticed that too ;-) The instructions are not really incorrect, because it works, doesn't it? But When I was doing this upgrade I found that the arms being so close to the bed were an obstruction for checking out how the print goes, so I thought of bringing them to the above side myself,...

Yes, that basically is it.
If you want to do it precisely, you could try to use this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598993
Still have to try it myself though.

I don't know if it matters much, but I would put those bands on the upper and lower ends instead of in the middle. In the middle they will bend the arms a bit, or you wil have to loosen them that much that it doesn't help reduce the slop anymore.

Mac The Knife wrote:3D Platform must not know, or care about Stratsys's claim,,, They offer optional heated enclosures: https://3dplatform.com/configurator/

With those prices it could well be that they pay for the patent.

There's currently an active patent (Stratasys I think) on heated chambers. You'll never see a commercial offering from any company other than them until that patent expires. Really innovative to use technology from 2 centuries ago to keep a small room warm and out of draft... Stupid USA patenting s...

I received this set in the mail last week: http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/ps_on-kit-assembly/ and started building it into the base of my RMaxV2. May main goal was to be able to shut down after a print, and to create protection against fire. It all fits without problems, next to the bed SSR, 24V PS...

Oops... did not notice the twist until Brian mentioned it...

Yes, I do not see why that would not work. You will probably need a similar construction at the bottom of each tower. That could interfere with how low your carriages can go, and therefore pose a limit to the max printable diameter. But for the rest it looks okay I think.

Temps are: Bed: 110C, hotend: 220C I am not familiar with this brand at all, but I think sticking with this temp and expecting the same results as any other brand is not the way to go. You will need to explore more combinations of temperatures. Your spool could suddenly become a highly recommended ...

I don't think the code will fit a a standard Rambo board like the ones are still uses until today, so No, it wil not. There are rumours about a new 32 bit Rambo, that will probably do have built in calibration, why else create a new board? But on the other hand I saw the popular Duet boards in the p...

Looking at the specifications (and safety warnings!) of this JBWeld product, it would make sense for it to be working great for glueing PEI. However I think I remember more people having tried it. It seems to loosen over time. The 3M glue sheets work fine, just apply dry. Because the glass and the P...

Hi Fellow Traveler (although I am not much of a traveler!) I think the best point of start would be the build manual on the Seeme pages: https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/c/Rev_1 I never read them, but that's just because I have a V2 ;-) I believe these docs are pretty complete and self-explanatory. Consi...

How fast are you retracting?

I would try going significantly lower in temp. The clearity of your printed part makes me think the temp is rather high. Usually the clear filament turns more opaque white'ish after printing. Try a thermocouple to see what temp you are "actually" printing, and calibrate your thermister set...

Depends on what you want really. I am not familiar with the BLTouch, but know that Repetier does not really do any auto calibration (besides the SeeMe branch that only supports the Boink-a-Probe Caliwhacker (not my invention!) ;-) The best way to do calibrations is using the tip of the nozzle as pro...

With the printer turned off, slide each of the carriages slowly up and down the towers. Can you feel some irregularities in how smooth they slide perhaps? To me this looks like something you can't prevent through slicer settings. Is more like a physical problem. The tube and cabling maybe hits somet...

I don't understand why these would be restricted to Haydn Huntley's magnetic rods and ball studs. I think it would not be a lot of work to fit the SeeMe barballs to the carriages. The idea of the tip of your hotend being the probe is appealing. FSR's do that, but introduce some error margin due to b...

Unless you need food safety, use the hardened steel. It has a better heat transfer coefficient (typically, there are so many kinds of steel that I could find you a hardened one with a worse one than a stainless, but E3D wouldn't have done that), and it is more wear resistant and cheaper. Price when...

bvandiepenbos wrote:Atomics carbon fiber petg is what I would recommend also.
You should use a steel nozzle, it is abrasive and will wear out a brass nozzle quickly.

Would you advise hardened steel or stainless steel (which is also very wear resistent probably?)

Is it advised to stick with that measurement, or is it plausible that (Duet auto) calibration changes that slightly. I think I have pretty nice dimensional accuracy right now, but pretty sure my arm length value is not exactly this 291.06mm. I do however feel that I have a rather big deviation durin...

I have seen this multiple times when I was still using the Rambo. I never caught the source of the problem though, it always went away after rebooting again. Did you also do something with the firmware?