Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I was struggling with this since I upgraded to the new hotend in oct, eventually i just decided to take it all apart after messing with it, and realized the same thing you did. The bowden tube wasnt fully seating in the heat brake. To fix this, I tried to chamfer the edges and smooth it off to make ...

Start with 1mm @ 20mm/s. I would not exceed 2mm. Wow, surprised i still found this thread without looking at ones ive posted on. Annyway, i figured out why my hotend kept jamming,... The PTFE tube wasnt all the way into the heat break. Ive since tapered the edge on it [ptfe tube] so it will go in b...

6mm retracts on the HE280 and PLA is a recipe for disaster. It may work for a short time, but will eventually jam the hot end. For the purposes of retraction, the HE280 should be treated like an all-metal E3D. Try moving your Z-lift to 4mm. Also make sure you set your Z axis speed to 200mm/sec. Set...

Never hurts to do a manual z height calibration through the interface. settings, all the way to the bottom, advanced, all the way to the bottom again, calibrate or z height or something, home it go to the uhhhh... z height adjustment (not the ZERO) spin the encoder to move the head up/down, get it t...

Thats what I always used with the original PEEK hotend, and it worked good then. Didnt change the settings after putting the HE280 on (besides nozzle size) and it all still prints good. Is it excessive? Probably, maybe, idk. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

Retraction Vertical Lift, is that the Z height it moves when going between sections? If so, I run that at 0, as well as 6mm retract and have 0 stringing, ever. The perimeters help to wipe the nozzle off. After changing the Z hop setting (repetier host's name for it) to anything other than 0, i got s...

Its printing into the air on the first one because its ram jamming the head into the plate, causing the motors to skip steps, ie not move when the board thought they moved.

Figure out why its jamming itself into the plate (gcode/software issue, most likely, 99.99%).

Pretty sure you just enter 3 (or something) to tell it what printer you have, and thats it.

It most likely is 5 by default, which is the V3, which has an inverted Y tower.

I was hoping so, but I think they cannot be reached without lifting the top baseplate, can they? Pull the curved plastic pieces hiding the corner/base of the towers? You should be able to see the stepper right there, and then the output shaft/gear between the two melamine pieces holding the actual ...

Is all that infill shifted itself over/away from the X tower?

It looks like theres some adhesion issues too?

I think these issues are all related to the way the Bowden inserts into the HE280. You have to be very careful to make sure it is pressed all the way in and that the tube is held securely by the PTC fitting. ^^^ Push it in /all/ the way, then pull the black locking piece up by hand or with pliers (...

Xenocrates wrote:That box is likely the mosaic mfg palette

Yup. that is probably most likely it.

Or check the nozzle diameter in your slicer/software settings. The one the V2 comes with is .4mm, the HE280 comes with a .5mm.

Ahh. But you still need to measure out the filament where you want the color change to happen, and be there... watching. As for the melting, ive considered it, Tried it with a lighter once to use up the end of a roll but no dice. I did also see a little jig people had made up with cutouts to help ro...

surely you must still have to pause it, at least for a moment and cut the previous color, otherwise there will be no pressure on the filament in the tube and thus wont extrude (besides any stringing)?

Im only guessing here, but my 2 guesses would be, its over-extruding or its too high. You can make sure its extruding roughly the correct amount by removing the bowden tube from the hot end, snipping the end of the filament off, retracting it (manually) until its flush with the end of the tube. Then...

That is a high quality picture.

Is the nozzle actually moving in that pattern, or is it doing it on its own?

Check the stepper connection on the Z. Check the driver chip, make sure its not getting too hot and shutting down. check the stepper motor, feel it and make sure its not getting too hot and shutting down. (stepper will get hot through normal operation though)

For the software leveling in matter control... I used it numerous times on large prints when I thought my bed wasn't level. (turns out I just didn't calibrate the horiz radius and stuff enough) But anyway, it worked well, the only disadvantage being I had to use matter controller (which I don't care...

You can also use repetier host which allows for curaengine slicer, and does have the ability to edit eeprom with a gui like in matter control. Now, I haven't used octoprint at all (well, I tried it once for like 2 mins), but I use repetier host and server, it still allows you to print remotely, whet...

Ooo I did not see that repo. Thanks!

Solidworks 2017 for the files? Jeeez. At least its got the IGES files.

(wasnt sure where to put this) Does anyone have a full copy of /all/ the CAD files for the v3? Id like to make a different fan shroud, but a large majority of the files seem to be missing from the github repo (https://github.com/seemecnc/Rostock-MAX-v3). Ive opened an issue (https://github.com/seeme...

When I first built mine, it would always overshoot. I took a large fan and blew it on the hotend area to tune it the first time. After that I did a tune again and it worked without overshooting.

(I think this was a suggestion in the V2 instructions too)

For measuring, id resort to video, and then analyzing it with some physics tracking type program. Ive used Tracker before, free, open source, cross platform. http://physlets.org/tracker/ Logger Pro is also another option, except its not free. But, it does have a 30 day demo, it looks like. Doing it ...

ill normally leave 1" minimum, and yeah, more on thicker wires. Or, if its solid and not stranded, even more.
Buuut, if im using the rest of the wire for something else, ill leave as much on the connector side as i can. Its always easier to cut excess off the wire than it is to add more to it.