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Sorry for the delay. I'm glad that sanding isn't needed because I didn't do any of that (and kind of glad it isn't because that would make me second guess my purchase). I have the injection molded carriages, so also a plus according to what you say. So your tip about making sure the towers are squar...

I did not install that HE280 hot end & accel. board kit, I did install an E3D Chimera. Have yet to use it for multiple filament prints (short on time at the moment + too many obligations) but first thing I'd like to try is the nylon and extended heat range printing that come standard with E3D he...

I recently upgraded my hot end, which required I take the printer almost completely apart and put it back together. Since then, after a calibration, I can print once fine. Second and other prints are not so good or worse. The calibration is being lost since the first layer quality is worse on subseq...

Oh man I didn't see that one for $76; I kept finding ones on eBay for like hundreds of dollars. Thanks for that!

I'm having issues finding a decent PSU for a reasonable price. The Mean Wells don't seem to come close to affordable (for a PSU), but I was able to find the one below: https://www.amazon.com/JOYLIT-Switching-Supply-Transformer-Regulated/dp/B0196PXOHU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496504074&s...

Figured it out! On my way to request support, I came across the following link:

https://seemecnc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/a ... working+on

Basically, my Max Z Length was set to 0. By upping it to 150, all of a sudden, my printer started working.

My printer (and software) were working perfectly until recently when I decided to tighten the belts. The first symptom was when trying to calibrate the printer, the "Home" command wasn't working on the printer menu. Then I searched online and in the forums for my specific issue and it seem...

I have been using MatterControl for a while now and although the layer fan is controllable from the "Controls" section of the program, once a print that should be using the fan begins, it never turns on. Which setting should enable the layer fan for different materials? I have tried min fa...

I copied as many as the relevant settings from http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7729 as I could for Cura on both my Mac and Linux machine. Then I tried to print and the hot end and bed would reach temperature but as soon as the movements start, the hot end and bed are set to 0°. Does anyone...

I was wondering if anyone has any tips regarding finishing flexible TPU filament. I have some clear TPU and I want to see if I can make it crystal clear by some kind of sanding or chemical (I have XTC3D but as it is a resin, I'm pretty sure that it will take away the flexible nature of it when harde...

Thanks a lot mhackney and joe! I'll try messing around in the software for now but here is the stuff on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:49276
He has a web tool now for it so I'll definitely check that out!

I printed the attached polar coordinate grid. Most of the print was pretty great (I'm not worried about the little defects) but the inset detail image shows my issue: Between the Z and the Y towers at the edge of the bed, the hot end doesn't appear to be able to reach the bed for the lowest layers. ...

I would like to know if there is way to generate GCODE so that you can control the temperature of the hot end throughout a print. Reason being, I've heard you can color wood filament by increasing the temperature of the hot end. I haven't found anything yet online (maybe I'm not searching with the r...

So I live and Serbia and just spent some time looking for wide Kapton or PET tape for my printer's bed and was unable to find any. However, I was told to check with cell phone/laptop repair shops, which the former has 1cm wide Kapton, which I already have and is not worth the trouble (glue is workin...

Just in case someone has a similar issue (and to close this issue), everything with my build and parts was fine EXCEPT that I had not given the printer head enough cabling from the top. What happened was, as this was my first build, I measured the cabling to the bed but it was still too tight when t...

Oh wow that's cool! I didn't know about using that part, I will go back and measure it again. However, I don't hold out too much hope since all my adjustments yesterday didn't do much. Any other ideas of what to look at after that?

OK, I just measured the bed at 70 degrees as best I could (how does one do this with a caliper? Mine won't fit under the snowflake/base) and got it as close as I could. Then I went through the tower alignment again and did a lot of calibration. I am really good on towers X and Z but Y still has a la...

I searched through the manual and on Google and I can't find what the size of the calibration box is supposed to be. I'm trying to figure out why my prints are not the right size. When I measure the resulting box, what should its dimensions be?

I re-adjusted the printer towers and it's pretty close but I just got a digital caliper and level and can at least now say that it is not completely level so I will try that next. Thanks for the help so far and I will let you know if I need more.

Below are pictures of what it looks like with a square. I guess that would be the problem, right? Is there an "easy" way to adjust the towers? Do I have to suck it up and take off the top part and do it like is in the instructions? X Tower: x-square.jpg Y Tower: y-square.jpg Z Tower: x-squ...

Hello forum, I'm pretty happy with my ROSTOCK Max V2 (and even prouder to have put the thing together) but I can't print anything larger than 1/3 of the diameter of the bed or so because I have this huge arc on my Y tower. This is the biggest issue, even if there are some other smaller things I wish...

Alright, I had to do an entire recalibration. I guess that because I attached the PEEK fan, I must have moved things around. After the recalibration, my print was great. Thanks for your help.

Hello again forum, You guys are great, which is why I keep coming back for help. I printed a calibration box and the PEEK fan housing without any real problems (just a little bit of over-extrusion). After installing the PEEK fan, it runs and I can feel air blowing past the end; however, I cannot get...

OK guys, really sorry to say this but as I was debugging, I saw that that the extruder motor was plugged into the wrong input, just like the manual said NOT to do. Thanks so much for the help and I apologize for my idiocy :-S

Thanks for the suggestions. I just now re-soldered the wires that I soldered before in case they were the cause of the issue (took a couple minutes so I thought whatever). Then I waited for the hot end to get up to 190°C. When I clicked extrude, it still doesn't do anything, so I don't think it is t...