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To stop the extruder bouncing you can make three of these:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058541

I really like flying extruders. Much better output than a big long bowden tube.

I set mine to the recommended number (418.5) and it was spot on when I measured it. Note that the titan (as it comes) tends to flatten one side of the filament due to the flat idler bearing, especially when printing PETG. I made this to combat the issue: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2185353 I ...

I'm glad to hear that it's all working for you Knabo! Nice troubleshooting.

Something like this should do the trick:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-Display ... 2194089728

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHHpu62plVY

The behaviour you mention. Ah that one. Yep I'm very familiar with that one. In my case it was because of a combination of: 1) Cheap clone hotend components 2) Long transition zone (distance between heatbreak and heat block) 3) Weak hotend fan 4) Unpolished heat break bore What happens is that the ...

Well there's your problem. See the dark bands in this picture, that are fat on the spoke, and thin on the rim? [img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=14874&t=1[/img] This normally means that you have a cyclical problem with your extruder gear. Looking at this picture: [img]http://forum ...

One thing you can try is to chamfer the outer part of the bowden tube to further seat into the heat-break. When the bowden tube is cut flat it could have a tendency to leave a small gap at the base of the heat-break. Also just cut off that section of the bowden tube to see if it holds better. I've ...

+1 for Geneb's advice. Try this experiment: Unroll a foot or so of solder, and bend it so that the unrolled solder is stuck up at a 45 degree angle to your desk. Now watch the end of the solder. It will slowly creep downwards until after a minute or so, it will be resting on the desk. The same thing ...

I've collated my findings in a new thread here:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,763881

I hope that it helps someone, or maybe you might find it interesting.

More data from a user on facebook with an MKS SBase (32 bit board, 8825 drivers) Left print is printed at 0.202 layer height, right print is at 0.161. 161vs202_layer_height_8825_Andrew.jpg From this I can see: 1) That he's using 20 tooth pulleys, so his steps/mm value is 80 or 160 2) That his ...

Also check the infill/perimeters overlap percentage in your slicer -- a well set up printer doesn't need much more than 0.

If the extrusion rate wasn't right, then you'd get gobby lines all through the print, not just at the ends.

Based on Bruce's last few prints, it looks like the Golden Ratio idea works pretty well. I see only straight lines, with little to no evidence of a Moire pattern. How did you come up with that idea? How does anyone come up with their ideas? In the shower, of course :D It all started with me looking ...

What is your acceleration set to (in firmware and in the slicer)?

Bruceg, Interesting prints. Thanks for doing this. Would you say that the golden ratio print is smoother? btw what steps/mm are you running at the moment? From some of your earlier prints it looks a bit like you're running a steps/mm value of 100 (or 200). Is this correct? It's just that the lines ...

Thanks for doing this test,0110. That's a really good data point.

The next test would be to lower your segments per second value, and see if this changes the pattern.

The Golden Ratio idea is really cool! To reduce these artifacts, I recommend upgrading to 400-step motors (0.9 degrees/step) and upgrading to a 32-bit controller with better drivers. Smoothieboard and Duet both offer that. I've used both, and while they have different step generation algorithms, I ...

Another thing to try is to lower the segments/second rate in your firmware. Halve it and you might see an effect like this:

Interesting. My steps per mm is actually set at 80.7. I calibrated that with a dial indicator (modified it until a Z axis move command equaled the change in reading on the dial). How did you come up with the 0.1618 layer height? I used to set my steps/mm according to what the caliper told me, but ...

I've been doing a LOT of experimentation on this issue. I'm convinced that the vertical lines you see here are not segments, but rather, stepping artefacts from the A4988 driver. 0110-m-p, can you try slicing the attached file in spiral vase mode, no need for top or bottom shells, with a layer ...

Hey Bruceg, I've been investigating this a lot on the other thread, and might have found a way to isolate the stepper noise from the segments. Try printing at 101% of the layer height you are already printing at. So if you print at 0.1mm, try printing with layer height of 0.101. If printing at 0.2 ...

Are you sure they're not 16 tooth pulleys? Looks like you need 100, not 80 as the steps/mm value.

johnoly99 wrote:Ok guys,

The Digi theme is back up. You'll have to go to your user control panel and choose the theme Digi

Aaaahhhh...

That's so much better. Thanks for reinstating this.

Believe it or not, Marlin accepts different steps/mm for different towers. Repetier, in its infinite wisdom, won't let you set individual steps/mm for each tower. The only way I've found is to set the tension such that all the motors move the same amount. Are you sure Marlin has that option? Or ...

hectori, This frustrates me as well. Believe it or not, Marlin accepts different steps/mm for different towers. Repetier, in its infinite wisdom, won't let you set individual steps/mm for each tower. The only way I've found is to set the tension such that all the motors move the same amount. Nice ...