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Some more pictures of progress being made. I have been working on getting the PC put together with a freshly installed Windows XP 32-bit on there to run the Mach3 software, and I have started looking at laying out the enclosure for the power supplies and stepper controllers. I picked up a nice cheap...

While I'm waiting for parts to arrive to complete the next big upgrade steps on our Rostock V3, I picked up this kit for a CNC plasma table that a friend had bought several years ago and never completed. When completed, it's a 4'x3' table with slide-through, so you can cut from a 4'x8' sheet in 3' i...

I ordered the Duet Wifi (which has better specs than the 0.85, not just added wifi, had to search for a bit to find a comparison page) for $170 and a 7" PanelDue for $95, along with an E3D V6 hot end for $75, all from Filastruder. There is a backorder for a week on a few items, I think. From Tr...

To update, one of the ones I printed in PLA has cracked / warped now, which caused it to pop off halfway, making it hang down and snag the part being printed and rip it off the bed. Would not advise printing these out of PLA, and maybe a good improvement would be if they had a way to screw on a reta...

I submitted a ticket to inform them of the issue, but otherwise I think I've got that voltage issue fixed. Upcoming upgrades to order soon (some on backorder for a week or two): Duet Wifi board PanelDue screen E3D V6 hot end and nozzles BerdAir cooling system Possibly look into various TrickLaser up...

Can you show / have you already shown how you adapted the platform to use the E3D V6 hot end? Thanks.

I was able to de-solder the flaky potentiometer that came on the Rostock PSU, and replaced it with another one. For reference, I'm getting an output of 12.82v when I have the potentiometer set to 290 Ohm, I believe (reading 0.29 on 20K setting).

This video shows the sort of behavior going on. In the long term, even though I had it set to 12.8v, it will print a few parts (or just a few minutes sometimes) and suddenly revert to less than 9v. You can see how when I simply poke at it with the wood rod at first, not turning, I get it to change v...

I pulled the PSU this morning, so this evening I will power it up without anything but my volt meter connected, and I will try to get some video of how sensitive the pot is, jumping the voltage around even just from knocking on the case.

I got a few good prints, but my stock power supply that I'm back on has recently decided that it wants to try changing the voltage too. I had a print fail halfway through, it was still traveling the print path but displayed "DEF" on the temps and had given up trying to heat, so the extrude...

I wouldn't know where to adjust the code for what voltage gets sent to the probe board (that fried it, and then came back and messed up the Rambo's I2C it was connected to). I didn't even command it to use any stepper motors or heaters, so those output levels weren't even involved during the time I ...

Found out a local friend has a spare Rambo board, I'll see if swapping to that fixes things. I figure it's more likely the 24v attempt screwed up the I2C on my Rambo board (when my probe board fried), than the odds that the replacement probe board arrived defective. But it's better to test to find o...

Here is the full transcript of what running G29 looks like in the terminal window: ->Communication State: AttemptingToConnect ->M105 <-start ->Communication State: Connected <- ->M115 <-Info:External Reset <- <-Transformation matrix: 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.0...

Got the replacement HE280 board mounted up, and the new BondTech QR extruder, and something is seriously horribly messed up with the probe routine: [youtube]8-Zqducfhho[/youtube] [youtube]https://youtu.be/8-Zqducfhho[/youtube] Add the forum embed feature to the list of stuff I can't get to work this...

We put in a 0.25mm nozzle (package says "E-accexpert") and have been tweaking the settings in Kisslicer, and things are definitely improving. Once we get the QR extruder and something like the Berd Air system for layer cooling, we should have this thing at the top of its game (short of goi...

The Victor 883 motor controller responds to the same input signal as an RC servo. If we could get that output, then I think people would be better off using things like this (and other 24v-rated brushed motor controllers) instead of SSR's, as I have never in my life seen one stick on without some ex...

Hmm, I wonder if there is a way to get the Rambo to output to one of its PWM pins (any to spare?) what value of bed heating power it's trying to do? If so, then I have a 24v 60A Victor 883 robot motor controller whose mosfets are designed just for rapidly switching to control output power. I'd trust...

Turns out it wasn't the fan, but this chip on the accel probe board that sparked up when I had everything hooked to 24v. And I never had it heat the extruder or bed, it just died from the Rambo being fed 24v. So if you wanna save $30, don't hook 24v to the Rambo if you have an accel probe board! [im...

Finally some success! After trying several different settings in MatterControl to make sure my retract was an appropriate amount, height, and speed, I got frustrated and decided to try out KISSlicer. I found where MHackney had posted his settings, and by importing those, I gave it a shot in the dark...

Yeah... that makes sense, 1ohm means it'll pull 1A for every 1v applied, so a limit of 15A means 15V... well, back to the stock 12v we go. Having had the SSR stick and burn the bed on our V2, and it sounds like every single person who has used them has had the same thing happen from time to time... ...

Okay, well the fan noise is terrifying. And I unplugged the hot end, because its little fan hit 88mph and started throwing sparks. But overall things went pretty well. The board lit up and the display showed it was happy, and I connected with USB to the pc and was able to connect in MatterControl, s...

Since my parts were seemingly getting worse and worse about spider-webbing as seen below, I figured I need to at least get one win today. So let's see if this Rostock Max V3 can run on 24v! I popped off the bed, took off the screws to lift the 12v PSU, and transferred the wires to their correspondin...

We ran a 24v PSU off to the side with SSR for the bed on our Rostock Max V2, so I was hoping that it might be possible to keep things more self-contained if it all ran off of the 24v installed where the 12v currently sits. After pulling my hair out over retraction settings leaving spiderwebs and boo...

When upgrading to a 24v power supply, it looks like the Rambo can handle it just like it was 12v. I wonder though, should I decrease the motor power parameters to 50% of their normal levels? Any other changes, or PID temp control tuning sequences to have it do once it's on the new higher voltage?

We printed them out of PLA, and even with print settings that weren't tuned well at the time leaving the parts messy, they cleaned up easy enough and snapped into place. Haven't had any issue with them coming off, and it does feel like the air is blowing in towards the nozzle, much closer than witho...