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yep - that's the silicone- i might have got a little carried away!
A little blob spreads a long way when squished down.

I finally managed to get this issue sorted- upgraded to the ball arms :) i think it was a combination of a little slop, crappy ABS, and slicer settings. In the slicer settings i ended up slowing up the default speed, and bring the perimeter up to 100%. not the speeds are pretty much consistent throu...

Thansk for the replies. i have my suspicions that this silver ABS might be a little more temperamental than others, and not flow as well. Finding a good Filament supplier in New Zealand seems near impossible. I would happily pay a premium for good stuff, but cant find anyone stocking anything half r...

Cheers for the prompt replies. i'm running a e3dv6 with a .6 nozzle, and the extrusion width is set to auto in S3d - so .72 for a .6 nozzle or 120%... i will try pulling this down to 110% percent and see if there is any difference. I dont think there is a "overlap extrusion percentage in simpli...

This has had me chasing my tail for several prints... extrusion settings look good, apart from around holes/ circles, where they always separate as in the picture running at slow speeds 30mms .6 nozzle ABS at 245 using Simplify 3d, but dint think that makes any difference. Any ideas greatly apprecia...

thanks for that- Ill try Tasman machinery.- looks like they sell makerbot for $80nzd per kg. Anyone had any experience with the quality of this? I dont mind paying a premium if its good, but its double the rate of generic stuff floating around on trademe Unfortunately usually its faster & cheape...

You would be very unlucky, or have a very rough anodiser if having the existing natural anodising stripped did anything substantial (or even measurable with a vernier) to the dimensions. the usual process is to soak the anodising overnight in alkaline cleaning solution to soften the existing, then r...

here you go

Make sure you take photos when you try!

to be clear- i used liquid RTV/ silicone sealant and just squished it down on the onyx. there definitely is a gap between the bed and glass, but is seems to work fine. measuring with a thermocouple, it seems no worse as far as cooling towards the edges than it was before. Anyway - rather deal with t...

ill grab some photos when i get a chance. i just used the existing holes in the base that are there for the snowflake. i used longer screws, and the plastic washers off the snowflake to space the bed up (i think I used 2 or 3 each screw) I think this setup nicely gives the onyx bed the ability to mo...

I struggled for months trying to get it calibrated before realising I had the same issue. I ended up removing the snow flake completely, fixed the onyx on spacers through the same holes. Also holding the bed onto the onyx, which was also warped, with 3 big blobs of silicone. Was intended as a tempor...

Maybe try setting your infill angle to 45 degrees?
I have the same results in 1.3, but only using matter slice, not in slic3er

It's working for me, but yes there is a about a 1 mm air gap between the bed and glass around the perimeter. I have held a thermocouple over the silicon blobs, and there is little temperature difference. I did try coating the bed with thermal paste before squishing it down, but I found that the bed ...

I too have been dealing with a warped bed, I had not realised, and have been struggling for months to get it calibrated. As a stop gap measure (which will likely be Permiant) I did the fill owing, and now have it calibrated to about .05mm everywhere out to 255mm dia. I removed the backing snowflake(...

anyone have a source of good quality filament in NZ? i don't mind paying a premium knowing its good quality. so far i have tried a few trade me suppliers, and Sandbrooks -reeltoreal.co.nz but so far none are nearly as strong as the seemecnc filament i have. the best success with locally sourced fila...

yep- seems a very common problem. ended up rolling back to the previous version

Is open fact slowing down to probing speed? Or is it hitting at full speed.
Try increasing the probing distance to say 100mm and see if that works

thanks for that- ive logged the fault, so hopefully they sort it.
i guess i'm either reloading the previous version of mattercontrol or using matterslice in the meantime.
I have to say- its nice how fast matterslice is compared to slic3er...

I made the mistake of hitting update to mattercontrol to 1.4.0.. now slicer seems offsets all prints off the top right of the bed. Printer bed size is set correct at 280x280, circular and printer centre & extruder offset are botth at 0,0. unfortunately i can't counteract the error by offsetting ...

I had the exact issue when i had the retracts set too long- i think the hot material gets pulled back, then squished into the gap discussed above.

Yes yes. I've also changed the macros to come close to the towers. I can tell for sure that the calibration is done the right way according to the manual. Is for sure something with the "missing steps" when I use the macros. making it closer to the towers may be adding to your pain- i wou...

There is NO PROBLEM with using retract with E3D hot ends. Don't spread false information please. Even with no retract, the micro snagging problem I described can take place. 100mm/s retract is way too high even for filaments like ABS. PLA requires a very slow retract (20mm/s) to keep from jamming. ...

Try no retract- e3d don't like much- this will prove if it's the problem.
I added a bolt on mine under the spring on the extruder to tighten it up, and it fixed it for me

Very nice- I like the use of the cap screws rather than bolts - very clean