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joe wrote:Dampers can have an effect. If you are getting dust and the motors are twisting you may actually have the belts too tight. This will cause binding and on a delta even one belt binding will cause grief.

If i loosen it anymore it will slip

I would agree with some mechanical play, probably not your settings except for speed. Make sure everything is tight. Make sure your hotend itself doesn't have any play. Print again slow, make your adjustments at that speed, then once you have a good print try speeding it up. What machine do you hav...

I would agree with some mechanical play, probably not your settings except for speed. Make sure everything is tight. Make sure your hotend itself doesn't have any play. Print again slow, make your adjustments at that speed, then once you have a good print try speeding it up. What machine do you hav...

joe wrote:Yup, those are ugly outline perimeters. Did you want me to tell you that you should ask a question?

Hahahah sorry I was so frustrated I forgot to ask. Any ideas on how to fix it?

Printing speed: 3200 min/mm
Outline Underspeed: 50%
Solid Infill Undnerspeed: 45%
Layer Height: 0.2300 mm
Temperature: 210C
Filament type: Pla
Retraction Distance: 5.60 mm
Retraction Speed: 7600.0 mm/min
Slicer: Simplyify3d

Ive tried lowering the fan speed below 10% but it still cools the hotend to below 190c when the target temperature is 205

TL;DR Clicking extruder and I think I am missing something here on calibrating the z-height all around the bed, not just the center. Current Setup: Rostock Max v3 .5mm Stainless Nozzle Firmware 02022017 Cura 2.31 with varying initial heights of .08, .1, .15, .2, .25. Varying Print Speeds from 40mm/...

http://imgur.com/fqGbE9J http://imgur.com/7n3Cz1N http://imgur.com/T0hqlpW Matter control profile "DocumentVersion": 201606271, "ID": "d783eb26-0974-46d6-9ff6-be29a15ea041", "StagedUserSettings": { "travel_speed": "150", "min_fan_speed...

I had tried a paperclip and couldn't seem to push the tab down hard enough. I'll give it another shot for sure, and I'll see if I can find some pin headers laying around. Thanks for the advice! I use a really small screw bit from my Ifixit kit. It's alot easier to push down. Also I know this might ...

geneb wrote:I'm curious to see how long the PLA ones last before starting to deform. I printed 12 of them out of ABS on a 0.4 Volcano, and they look like crap. I suspect it's because I'm expecting too much out of the Volcano.

g.

Yeah Im using an HE280 and they look terrible no matter how I print it.

With the Slic3r slicing engine? That's your problem. Either use one of the other slicers bundled in MatterControl or download the standalone version of Slic3r (which will also give you a lot more options in Expert Mode). MatterControl's Slic3r integration has a bug and they don't seem interested in...

IMBoring25 wrote:Where are you doing your slicing? That looks like the Slic3r-in-MatterControl error.

Yeah I'm slicing in matter control

Does it still print OK? The latest update to OctoPrint now warns when the object is outside the print area. You can disable that in Settings->Features. It gets that size from the Printer Profile, which I just checked and it is set to rectangular. There's also a setting for the position of the origi...

bubbasnow wrote:yea octorpint just pumps the gcode to the machine. so long as the slicer is configured correctly you should be golden.

Is there anyway to like move it to the middle in octoprint?

All of a sudden octopi is placing objects on the out side of the bed [img]http://puu.sh/sTfNN/cdc6c5de3f.png[/img]

Ok it turns out I did a dumb. The switch for the psu to change between 110 and 220 volts wasnt all the way to 110. Major facepalm.

I've got everything plugged correctly but for some reason nothing is powering on. You aren't giving us much information to work with. Start by plugging something else into the wall outlet, just to prove that it's working. Then get out your meter and start testing things. Are the AC input wires at t...

I've got everything plugged correctly but for some reason nothing is powering on.

Got my printer to the point where I can start "auto-calibrating". I altered my configuration.h as follows: -Set the printer as "V3", (5). #define PRINTER 5 -Reversed the proper axis to match V2. // ###### Inverting Axis Settings #elif PRINTER == 5 #define INVERT_X_DIR 1 #define ...

Yeah, my rambo failed due to a bum reset switch, so I swapped over to a Duet, and it worked fine. I never did update to the newest version of it. damn I have gotten the Rambo working again, but with a Duet in the printer, there isn't a reason to really play with it other than my own curiosity. Admi...

fair enough. I went to go port my configs through the online tool, but I was lazy and found it easier to just convert the marlin tables to Repetier compatible, because that was easier to do programmatically. Also, I didn't notice the support for it, and am slightly lost as yet with how to do the co...

fair enough. I went to go port my configs through the online tool, but I was lazy and found it easier to just convert the marlin tables to Repetier compatible, because that was easier to do programmatically. Also, I didn't notice the support for it, and am slightly lost as yet with how to do the co...

Can it be a firmware thing? There is an option in firmware to invert, maybe you changed that by accident? of course this can only be so when the endstop works the wrong way, not if it does not work at al. #define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING true Just checked and it already says true I would try swappin...

DeltaCon wrote:Can it be a firmware thing?
There is an option in firmware to invert, maybe you changed that by accident?
of course this can only be so when the endstop works the wrong way, not if it does not work at al.

#define ENDSTOP_Z_MIN_INVERTING true

Just checked and it already says true

So, first step troubleshooting it beyond "Wiggle the darned thing while watching the status" would be to disconnect the limit entirely, and keep the contacts from touching. If this doesn't show an open condition, it means that there's a short in the wiring somewhere, or a dead input on th...