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Perhaps I'm still barking up the wrong tree, but 25% fan speed seems to be the magic number where the bed temp remains relatively constant. Higher than this and it drops pretty fast.

-Brian

THanks, let me ask another question or two to follow up 1. since the hot end temp reading seems steady, and it is the bed temp that drops with the fans on, do I assume it is the bed thermister that is bad? I can test both still, but it seems to me the issue is the bed temp dropping and then causing ...

Well the print completed with no 'def', but it looks like garbage without the layer fan on. trying again with the layer fan on, but I can already see the temp dropping. I went in and turned the fan off on the little LCD, and the bed temp instantly started to come back. What gives here? I've got tons...

I read a lot of the great background here on the 'def' problem with the temperature reading. I checked some things out per the past experience, but so far I do not think I have the same problem. Here is what happens. I have been printing an object that has 9 parts. I have printed 3 of the parts with...

Thanks guys....looks like it will be a bit before I can mess with this further. Life is taking over at the moment. I do notice that after fixing that one solder joint and tightening the lugs at the power supply it heats a bit faster, but does not get any hotter. Maybe that means the voltage really i...

If I check the voltage at the power supply end while heating, I get 12.0V +/- 0.1 V. I don't see a difference if I get the tiny bare section of wire (so tiny I have a hard time getting my lead on it) just after the crimp type connector. At the bed end, I get the same voltage at the bare wire before ...

The LED appears to be on continuously. I am using Matter Control, and can't seem to find where to generate a graph. I thought that was the recommended software by SeeMeCnC. I have not tried driving directly from the PS. I'm starting to wonder....do I need it to get any hotter? I print in PLA, ABS, a...

OK, so I found a spec online for a similar power supply of 15 in-lb, and I did get a little tighter getting there. I fired it up again, and got up to about 91.3, but then it couldn't stay there. It dropped back down to about 88 and sat there. I just have the printer sitting alone, not connected to a...

I checked the voltage....12V at the terminal and at the bed.

Is there a torque spec on the screw connections? I have a torque screw driver so I can set that properly if I know what the target is.

-Brian

Hey all. I've got a bone stock Rostock V3. The bed tops out at about 87C. I did see it briefly reach 89, but then it could not be maintained there. I checked the following things out: Solder connections at the board - I fixed one that looked gnarly Tightness of the connectors on the power supply ( I...

Sorry for the delayed response. Thank you! This worked beautifully. In the end, I figured out that what happened was I downloaded the new firmware, but we have the old arms. So the arm length was for the new spring loaded carriages. Feel like I should have seen that coming.

-Brian

I've got my Rostock set up (well, my brother's), and printing away. I notice something though. Whatever I print is about 5% smaller than it should be in the X and Y directions. The Z height, thickness of the part off the bed, is always right. But the part will be around 5% shorter and narrower in th...

Jim,

We are near Crown Point. My bro actually drove to Goshen to pick the machine up. The bigger the world gets, the smaller it is sometimes....

Brian

Hello all! I have been surrounded by 3d printers! Most of my close friends have one, and my brother just bought one too. All Rostocks. My bro's is the current edition. We put it together last week and it is still kicking our butts. But we are hopeful we will get it figured out. You'll probably see h...