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I am in process of building a solid aluminum bed, for higher temps and more controlled surface temperature, I will supply power from an external supply, to handle the current. It will have two sets of the standard heaters (8) per set and two thermistors. Does anybody have a procedure to connect the ...

Hi All Setting up my test station to test the 300C hot end, using a Smoothieboard. i will be pushing the board using relays to power an all aluminum bed plate, It will have two zones controlled with two thermistors, each zone I estimate will draw about 14 A and about 85 watts. I.m starting out a lit...

Your work shows years of machining and CAD experience, very awesome. I am starting to think about an external power supply brick with a regular power supply rather than a nerfed PC power supply (says ATX right on the box). One thing I am learning over a long time is that 3D printing is not for the ...

Hi All Finally finished the parts for the hotend, now I am setting up a Smoothieboard to test this piece.

Jack
draw-tech

I tend to agree with bot, simple mods like bringing the filament closer to the drive gear for the flexible filaments can all be done to the EZStruder. Can someone explain what is gained with this metal extruder over the EZStruder? Hi Eaglezsoar My reason for the all metal extruder is to stop the fl...

Hi BTP Funny you should mention spring tension. I have been using my extruder and working great,______ Until i tried to print some T-glase, it started to slip. It did not take much movement of the spring to increase the pressure on the idler bearing. So I added a .05 thick disk under the spring, and...

A very nice looking engine Jack. Doing it in plastic first is a great use of your printer. Hi Eaglezsoar Yea it fun, but it got me itchy to start machining the real one. I have well over a year in the design of that motor. If you log on to that site, http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/forum.ph...

Hi all I Designed this model engine a couple of years ago, This is about a 1/4 scale, working model, made totally from bar stock. Build.jpg I have started to machine the real motor, but decided to make it in plastic first. DSCN1557.JPG DSCN1559.JPG DSCN1562.JPG If any machinists out there, you may w...

Hey BTP Looks great, looks like it may act as a good heat sink. Hey Neptune I am in process of pricing with my CNC shop, if I can produce them without loosing money I will. BY the way it works great, start the filament through the PTEF tube on the top, make contact with the hobbed gear, and crank aw...

Hi all
Finished major parts, now to make the rest of parts, and next the Test setup. Jack

Hi all
Here's a pdf file where you can write down special settings that you may have for your projects. I will try to put into
Excell, so info can be entered by your computer.

Jack
Draw-Tech

And heck, even the hotend of a makerbot replicator costs more than this would, even with the economies of scale makerbutt has, and can't do the temps this calls for. Admittedly, I went for an E3D hotend to get high temperatures, rather than making my own, because I liked what I saw, and didn't figu...

That is a good point. Going hotter would probably add to the transparency as well. It's by far the clearest material I've used, but maintaining as much optical clarity as you can will make keeping moisture out of the filament critical and depend on thickness and style and percentage of infill. The ...

Hi IMBoring25
Is the print transparent or translucent ?
Jack

Kit level printers are fine if built for the purpose. I have made polycarbonate prints with my Mendel through an E3D v6. I'm running it a little cooler than you list there, so I haven't even had to go to a thermocouple yet. Even the RepRapPro quick set hot end should be capable at this point. Hi im...

Great potential. I like the way this group thinks. One thing to keep in mind most thermistors go up to 300°C. Beyond that you'll be switching to a thermocouple. I not sure what other changes that would entail but I'm sure someone on here is better versed in this area. Hi dryho Did some research on ...

Thanks Guys Had a bad feeling about Teflon due to the toxic fumes on over temperature, Has anybody tried high temp graphite, it will take temps to 426 C, I don't know if it will rub away from the filament. People I guess need this temp for the new flex material. High Temperature Conductive Graphite ...

Hi all Started on a hotend that can go over 300 c, I have got a Smoothieboard, and in process of setting up a head assembly to see what this will take. I have a 40mm fan, and have built in louvers to help to direct the cooling of ceramic, and aluminum holder, (upper hotend piece), and a deflector to...

Hi All Haven't used any flex material yet, mostly print with ABS. This extruder is set for 1.75 mm filament, but could be made to accept 3.0 mm. As for the hot end, working on it, (close) If any of you guys want the drawings, dope me a PM, I'll work up a package of pdf files. By the way it works! Wh...

DSCN1444.JPG DSCN1393.JPG Hi all I did have a lot of problems with the extruder, bearing twisting against the filament, causing the filament to hit the edge of the hobbed gear, eating away at the filament plugging the gear to failure. This is my version. an all metal extruder. I to added a piece of...

Thanks egalezsoar
It helps to have a machine shop in your garage, and about 60 years in the design & fabrication business. Using it for the first
time today. Works great. The temp on the extruder hobbed gear about 35 C while the screws in the aluminum about 28 C.
Jack
draw-tech

Hey All Thanks for the response. I did intend to use the highest melt temp. Where did you get the cartridges Eric ? I also aluminumized the extruder. with heat sinks to. Jack draw-tech Nice design on the extruder. Is that a single piece of PTFE tube from PTC past hob and into lever? What did you do...

Hey All
Thanks for the response. I did intend to use the highest melt temp. Where did you get the cartridges Eric ?
I also aluminumized the extruder. with heat sinks to.
Jack
draw-tech

This is my version of a quick removal hotend, for repairs. Heaters are soldered into brass bus bars, and connected at top with set screw clamps. Two fans,tricklaser, and thermistor,have connectors, Bus bars are covered with Teflon tubing and silicone in place after soldering. Hotend all aluminum, to...

Hi dajay23D Still running at below 39C no fan just tie warped to the motor, front and rear. I also noticed the red lever deflecting, maybe make one of aluminum, may help to cool the bearing. I have noticed that the hobbed gear runs only about 3 degrees C lower than the rear or front of the motor. Ta...