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Still working out some of the caveats with the new repetier firmware. filament was retracted too much and didn't prime quite enough before the print started.

Another part at 100MM/sec 350MM/sec Travel

Here is a sample piece, i belive i printed this at 80mm/sec

Perhaps, but i have been very successful doing it this way.

i measure several spots on the filament, and then average them together to get my results. this probably improves my accuracy.

Sorry guys. I have been busy with my printer. I switched from MARLIN to Repetier firmware, and it broke some things in the firmware that i used, i found workarounds though. I also have been updating my hot end and other things. Biggest things are: I slice with CURA I use a FAN I switched to 3MM Fila...

My cura settings. layer height (.1-.3mm etc.) wall thickness 1.0 bottom/top thickeness 1.2 fill density.. (whatever) Filament diameter (measure your filament diameter after your extruder gears grab it.. ie the diameter in the bowden tube.) packing density (again ABS or PLA.. ABS.. i use .85 PLA.. us...

I dont understand the EZstruder for the rostock max...

the geared version is great, just needs a little tweaking.

3mm filament fixes the downfalls with the original one. i never touch it now. it just WORKS

Im going to post some things in here for those who are loosing hope that they will be able to print well with a rostock MAX.... mine has always pretty much sucked at printing stuff well. Main problems: 1.) filament binding in extruder 2.) Stringing / retraction. 3.) Filament breaking in extruder if ...

Biggest problem with Rostock MAX after owning it for.... well since october 2012. 1.75mm filament. -- Never should have been used. I cant tell you how many times i've had the extruder fold filament inside itself... CONSTANTLY. Maybe if i only printed 20mm/sec it would be reliable. 3MM is WAY better....

share more details of your print!

Temperature

Slicer

Speed

Slicer Settings?

The only time i've broken a peice of glass is by driving the print head into it.

other than that, plain window glass has never failed on me.

I had problems with filament bucking in the beginning. After adjusting the extruder tension correctly, and alignment, i have not had a buckling issue in a long time, after probably 100+ hours of print time or so. but i did have it happen alot in the beginning. it was due to the extruder being to tig...

Also note if your filament is kinking often, your extruder alignment to the bowden tube adapter plate could be off.

Mine was. i ended up having to file down one end of the bowden tube plate to get it to shift over far enough to line up true.

Mine Squeaked too. you can hear it on an early print vid several weeks ago of mine here: (Watch in 1080P) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l25msMed3So&list=UU2kp9KNGq2dkOQUtfqckPPQ&index=2 it was dirty and not quite tight enough. a few of those small gears in my kit were chipped, thus far have...

Fan? I forgot to even get into that problem. to use a fan successfully and reliably, i had to insulate the hot end from the fan, otherwise it would cool off too much. You should be able to print just dandy without a fan for many things, as long as the parts are not super tiny. Lower the temperature ...

As someone who has printed almost 4 spools through his Rostock MAX, and the first to have a functional printer besides the prototypes (as far as i know!) i believe i can offer some input. So i've noticed a few problems when trying to calibrate the bowden extruder. The real problem lies in finding th...