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Dang. I just did this. Took me two days to figure out what was wrong - belt tightness? Nope. Skate wheels? Nope. Levelled platform, many times. Nope. STILL F'N LEANING. Found this thread. E Motor wire was running parallel to one of the end stop cables (part of a new rewire). Tore it out and routed i...

jesse wrote:Anyone interested in selling their geared extruder from the original Rostock Max kit?

Curious as to what you want it for, I had a terrible time with it. What's it worth to you? I have one I wouldn't cry to see go.

M303 P1 S200 seems to do nothing. The other two commands work as expected. Any ideas on what the problem is? I can heat the second extruder manually in Repetier fine. But I can't get the autotune to work. :( Edit: Using the EEPROM in Repetier Host I changed the Ext2 Heat Manager from 0 to 1 and this...

Thanks for posting - just got my Chimera and this is the same setup I envisioned. Good to have confirmation of it actually working before I rip out my old setup.

The problem with adjusting the end stops is that they only take effect when you home. So, if you find that one position is a little high, you have to adjust the end stop, re-home, and then go back to the position. If you were able to adjust the bed, then you'd move to the desired position and no fu...

If you're going to use OctoPrint, do not use it on a Pi, it's too slow and will cause blobbing if your STL has a lot of facets. Best to use a BeagleBoneBlack at least. I know everyone loves to pile on, but I still don't understand geneb's position on the whole Repetier-Server thing. Okay, I get the...

I suspect the move is the desire to disassociate entirely from Repetier and his MakerBot-like behavior. g. I can't agree with Gene more emphatically on this point. We in the OSS supporting realm need to shut down these two faced M-th-- F---ers as quick as possible. There's no point in supporting a ...

Oly & JJ happen to be in my office. And we'd say under 10 minutes at 24V. The resistance increases as the temperature increases. So heating will always slow down some as it gets hotter. Under 10 minutes to what temperature? Is it safe to assume that there has been no testing done on the perform...

I have been using Inventor for it. I forgot about it, been so busy lately. I might be able to get it over to 360, would be way more beneficial so I don't have to restart to work on it. Yeah, 360 can import Inventor projects, so it should be a quick transition. 360 doesn't have all the same tools as...

The Rambo can handle 24V, but not the current associated with 24V to the heated bed (around 21A). So no matter what an SSR is needed whether you run 24V to the bed and 12V to the Rambo through a regulator or just run straight 24V with and SSR between the board and the bed. Okay, that makes sense ab...

jesse wrote:I put a piece of Styrofoam 1 inch on the bed and it reaches 100 C in about 10 minutes. You can also use a towel or a pot holder.

That's not a bad idea - so you put it on, heat the bed, take it off run the print? I'ma gunna hafta try that!

The "real" solution is to switch to 24v. I've regularly printed at 110C, and it only takes 3 or 4 minutes to get there on an R2 bed. That's sort of what I suspected. Do you see any benefit with the "24v" V3 over the V2? Are you running 24V into RAMBo or using the SSR method? Can...

What are your operating temps? How long to get up to temp? Are you putting the paper on top of the glass?!?! What are you using to glue the ABS down? I seem to be having quite the time with curling, can't get anything to print flat. Contrast to the MB-Replicator which I don't have issues with (some ...

Oh yeah I'd like to get access to this! I already did this assembly in Sketchup. Sketchup sucks, way less accurate. I'd rather have it in Fusion 360, but I'm lazy and don't want to redo it all. I wanna do some changes before I laser cut my V2.x upgrade from V1. :D If you guys are using Fusion 360 (a...

Just to mirror what Eaglezsoar said:

Doesn't matter what thermistor you use, assuming it's got a reference on the thermistor table and as you reference it in the firmware, and reflash the RAMBo.

Yuppp. I've done the same thing (more than once) in the past. Two rows of blocks = wrong orientation. It's a super easy mistake to make!

I'd agree with you if somehow they would block your ability to access the designs, but if you have a commercial account and cancel it, your account is still active - nothing is stopping you from downloading them in any format 360 can export in. You just can't use it to model things. Just like nothin...

So I'm trying to print ABS after a long period of PLA only. I build a tent around the printer, but it seems like 90c is the usable max the Onyx is able to reach, and it takes it's sweet time to get there. I had in the past upgraded the power supply from the ATX one, and did notice a speed increase i...

I used to hate Inventor and my first go with FreeCAD was a disaster. It was AutoCAD all the way. Then, at a new job, the guy on the desk next to me (their modeller) was running Creo, nee Pro-E or Pro Engineer from PTC. At $7000 a seat and Windows only, there was no way. But he was the Parametric ev...

I realize I'm a little late to the party in this thread, but I just wanted to pipe in my $0.05 (we don't have pennies in Canada): I started with sketchup. Was great to dive in to 3D design with nobody but Google to teach me. Quickly found limitations, but for simple objects it does work great and in...

My primary reason behind using 12mm is to allow pocketing the tab spaces instead of cutting slots all the way through. Combine that with counter-sunk screws and you'd end up with a very nice looking surface. You could even go so far as to glue it AND screw it and cover the screw holes with wood plu...

No, I'd cut single plates that had a wider diameter to incorporated both sets of extrusion. Probably way overkill. But when has that ever stopped anyone?

They would be in the same positions, but offset radius so they don't interfere with the cheapskate movement. I thought about rotating them, but I figured it would cause too many poles in the way when trying to access the build plate.

Funny you should mention the effects of movement on the structure of the printer - I've been pondering redesigning the horizontal plates so that they incorporate a second set of extrusions. I have a stack of Misumi 2020 and 2040 begging to be awesomeified (that's totally a real word). My thought is ...

If it was ME, I'd make the big horizontal parts out of 12mm Baltic Birch and just pocket them on the back side to allow the tabs from the vertical parts to fit properly. It would look amazing after being stained & varnished. g. Yeah, I've seen you mention that change before - I even went as far...