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Earthbound wrote:You might try setting your maximum step rate to a much lower value (I'd suggest 5-10% of whatever it is now), then see what it does. I'm guessing the speed is too high.

I'll check this when I get home tonight. Thanks for the suggestion.

By each individual stepper driver is correct, do you mean that each individual driver is in fact capable of driving the motor, and has the current correctly set? Yes, that is what I mean. The Azteeg boards have the stepper driver circuitry on a separate breakout board. I have an Azteeg X1 that I us...

I've been upgrading my Rostock MAX v2 to handle three extruders and a the Polystroooder tri hotend. Part of that is changing the board to an Azteeg X3 Pro. I have everything put together and wired up. I'm talking to the board just fine, and I can heat up the bed and each hotend. However, I cannot ge...

Excellent! thanks!

Is there a pinout diagram available anywhere for the stock LCD board? I'm getting ready to swap out the RAMBo board for an Azteeg X3 Pro, and I'd like to see if I can get the stock LCD working with it.

That is awesome! you don't have any additional cooling on the board?

What is the wattage of your 24V power supply?

Are you using an SSR for the heated bed?

I'm about to upgrade my Rostock MAX v2 to handle 3 extruders/hotends. Part of the upgrade is to replace the RAMBo with an Azteeg X3 Pro. I'm thinking up upgrading the PSU to a 24V PSU as well. The Azteeg is advertised as allowing a 12V-24V input. Has anyone actually run 24V through an Azteeg X3 Pro?...

What do you want to do that the RAMBo can't?

The RAMBo is a good board for the Rostock MAX as it is. There isn't really a reason to change it unless you are trying to do something that is beyond the capabilities of the board.

Right. Wow. PSU are expensive! Around 200 euros in Europe. What are the thoughts about running 2x 15a in parallel? I've been researching that question since I started this thread. Unsurprisingly, using multiple power supplies isn't as simple as hooking a couple of batteries together. In general, a ...

Agreed. Thanks for posting this. I had missed this thread until yesterday, but I was able to calibrate my printer much better using this method.

Any chance we can get this thread pinned?

My new Rostock is printing reliably now, and I'm ready to start installing the upgrades. I had purchased a Polystrooder Tri Hotend and an Azteeg X3 pro, but I had forgotten to purchase a PSU that can handle the additional power requirements of 3 extruders and hot ends. I'm looking at two different o...

OK, I'm reading in at 10.7 volts. How do I go about getting the bed's voltage output to 11.7?

@Teoman,

What were the part numbers for the two MOSFETs you used on your V2 SSR?

I have read about the weak power issue related to the stock PSU, but I have not heard of it being as bad as what I am seeing. Is wait times of an hour or more for the bed to hit the target heat common? Is an inability for the bed to hit 100C (an advertised temperature) often seen?

My heated bed is taking an extremely long time to heat up - about 60 minutes to get to 80C, and it seems to be incapable of getting up to 100C (it levels out around 92C). I know there are a lot of complaints about the wait time for the bed to heat up, but this seems abnormal. The wires leading to th...

Teoman got it right. Micro fuse F3 was blown. I'm not sure how that happened, I agree with Ben that it shouldn't have blown a fuse. I'll double check my wiring anyway. Would current from the steppers blow that fuse if I were moving them too fast? I've been trying to avoid generating current through ...

Just finished attaching the PEEK fan on chapter 20 in the Rostock MAX assembly instructions. I had put connection points on my wires rather than just soldering them together, since I intend to change out the fans and hotend once I get this printer fully working and I wanted to make it easy to switch...

I have Octoprint on a dedicated pi (model B+) on my Mendel, and it runs fine for pushing gcode and basic machine control. I don't see any noticeable lagging when the camera is on. I don't use any of the slicing features, since I prefer to use Simplify3D. I've just finished building and calibrating m...

teoman wrote:is that 65euros including the PEI?

My pei just cracked, and i need a replacement some time soon.

What was the thickness of your cracking PEI?

I'll have to check out those other boards, thanks!

How often do you need to recalibrate?

Thanks for answering my questions. It sounds like an aluminum plate is worth purchasing, and I'll be paying close attention to MHackney and 626Pilot for updates. Another question: Once I have the second printer up and running, I'm thinking of upgrading to multiple extrusions. I particularly like the...

Nylocke wrote:TrickLaser arms, TrickTrucks, something from E3D (V6 or Legends pack), slightly beefier PSU, Smoothie based board (?), those are the main ones.

Thanks for answering my question. Why need a beefier PSU? How does the current one limit the machine?

KAS wrote:Would like to see "Rostock Pro v1" all metal kit with the typical upgrades people already pay extra for.

What upgrades are people typically paying for? The only one I'm aware of is additional height.