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Coming back to this- I'm currently running 713 Maker's basic effector kit (E3D) with trick laser arms and moulded cheapskate bearings. So, I can strap a smart effector on there and get the functionality of mesh bed leveling? but 713 Maker's adapter is not good? Just to be clear, the smart effector y...

great! thank you

Ive had a max v2 for quite some time now (just resurrected it from storage) and I am wondering whether its worth upgrading more vs selling. I've got a lot of good mods on my Max v2 incl trick laser cf arms, 713 maker effector plate, e3d hot end and cheapskate carriages. Bed leveling has been an issu...

Having the seemingly the same issue as you with a stock Rambo board and Octoprint. Did you ever figure this out?

recalibrate each tower as per assembly manual?

After a bad collision and recalibrating my Z height, my printer prints very significantly out of plane like 3 inches over 11. How to rectify this?

Hi all- I've printed some of @626Pilot's 'Lucky Number 7' fan shrouds: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:487768" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but they seem to be made for a different, most likely older, effector plate. Provided you have the same setup as I do, what do you d...

@KAS if I just cut it in half I would need support going all the way up the print- it that what you are suggesting? the 30 degree approach is quite intriguing- I would like to try that some day--- however I went with option 2: vertical, shearing of each small lip portion and re attaching later. Afte...

Hi All- I've got a 3D print to do and I'm wondering how to orient it on the bed on a Rostock Max V2. The outside should smooth if theres a choice (i.e. avoid support on the outside). Screen Shot 2015-09-07 at 2.20.54 PM.png Since the object exceeds the build volume in 2 dimensions it will definitely...

Thanks for the input, guys. @Jimustanguitar I will try the extrusion test. I've done the filament diameter, that is already a part of my basic workflow. But an accurate extrusion length test is predicated on accurate filament diameter I would imagine. @mhackney yes, good point re: S3D forum, most of...

Hello All- I've beed doing some 'torture tests' with PLA in the interest of improving print quality after installing trick laser arms and an e3dv6. I'd like to minimize the blobbing or warts, the stringing, and the inconsistent layer lines seen in the photo below lit chiaroscuro to exaggerate imperf...

I mounted the E3D below the effector platform, like 626pilot, and used his 'lucky number 7' blower fans. Doesn't really feel like I mounted those correctly, but that is beside the point.

Has anyone designed a revised heating fan that will cover all fins when the E3D is mounted above?

Thank you. That's exactly what it was. Swapped it for f2 to verify. Tested it with impromptu continuity tester. Jeff bezos is hustling to send me some more littlefuses tomorrow. Apparently he's got a bunch of stuff and is real dead set of getting me everything I need asap.

I was finishing up some wiring and I soldered a connection to a layer fan...while the machine was on. I know... Arduino blinked out, power supply fan is still on. Did I fried my rambo board? Feeling v stupid right now.

Ok, well I got it taken apart, and the effector platform is still intact. Now, how to mount the e3D...

This is a question I've been searching for and is related enough i think...is there a way to mount the e3D to my existing all stock effector without having to 3D print anything?

Hot knife- yes. This is PLA. It was really stupid of me to leave the printer knowing full well that the bed adhesion was sub optimal. Now I've a good excuse to rig up the E3D tho! I was hoping to print a mount for the e3D. or can I theoretically reuse this one if I can free it that is? I gotta say, ...

This is not fixable. I tried heating it up, prying it off, not happening.

here is another pic. fixable?

geneb wrote:There's nothing fatal going on there. Just remove the layer fans and heat up the hot end. You should be able to pull the blob of plastic off quite easily.

g.

Ok, I will try that. however, it mushroomed out the top too, creating a sort of big plastic rivet.

I had just put on some trick laser arms, and done a few great prints with them. I've had an E3D sitting around too, that I've never hooked up because I've never had a single problem with the stock hotend. until now major bummer, because I'm in the middle of fulfilling some orders for 3D hubs. This s...

I have noticed that vertical banding like that isa due to mechanical defects in the printer path, things like loose cheapskates, loose arms and a loose extruder. I solved most of my problems with my tricklaser arms. what that did is force me to look at all mechanical aspects of the printer. I disco...

Entering the contest? http://www.thingiverse.com/challenges/MakeItFloat/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Ha! No-- that seems like it concerns a different set of problems- displacement, center of gravity, the volume of the water displaced times the density of water times the...

Print went well. Top is a little fuzzy on account of the print head moving off to the side to let the part cool when layer time is under x. How do I keep it from getting stringy in this mode? Horizontal z banding is still more prevalent then I would like. would magnetic ball arms upgrade help solve ...

I've got this sliced up in Netfabb thanks to the guys over at Sketchucation and am printing the hull parts vertically and the top rims horizontally as mentioned. Right now my hull part print time is 11hr. I've started printing one as I write this. I would really appreciate any advice on the various ...