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Genuine Haydn Huntley mag arms, 304mm - in great shape and perfect for Rostock upgrades. Includes 12 threaded mag balls. I had these on my V2 for about a year and was very happy with them. I recently built a new delta and had to buy longer arms, so these are for sale. $50 shipped USA. Ultibot FSR (f...

So, I hear of people doing this, and say it works very well, but I've yet to find specific examples. PLA is appealing due to low cost and ease of purchasing from multiple vendors. Heat creep seems to be a recurring problem with PLA for me over the years, but its appeal as an inexpensive support mate...

Sorry for the belated reply, gentlemen. Yes, re-tuning my EZR e-steps generally resolved the glaring issues I posted above. I've already run the temperature wizard on some different PETG from what I used above, and will run the flow rate soon. Michael - thanks for your tutorials here over the years,...

Thanks, Xenocrates. Yes, that's what I've done, basically "back to square one." I re-measured the filament, re-cal'd the extruder, and went through his thread. While the X & Y aren't as close to each other as I'd like, they are sufficiently good for now. In the future, I hope to replac...

I'm new to KISS since 1.6.1, and am trying to figure out how to close up the gaps in the top & bottom surfaces. I've tried changing the extrusion multiplier ("flow tweak") from 0.9 - 1.0, the extrusion width 0.60 - 0.66 (0.60 nozzle), and the infill extrusion width from 0.72 - 0.60. Wi...

The question of the correct length of these arms has come up several times here and in other forums over the last 2 years. The Dozuki documentation states they are 290.80, while the official Repetier firmware has always specified 291.06mm. I emailed SMC support, and received the following prompt rep...

You're right - I had forgotten about the bottom holes. I didn't put them in as I intended to be able to store the filament in the same bucket by switching lids, as I mentioned above. I, too, am surprised at the humidity levels they quote, considering they're cycling air through. Their shop must be a...

No, I didn't drill holes in the bottom. During drying, the lid had several holes to allow moisture to escape. Maybe I'm not understanding your intention, but it seems to me by also drilling holes around the bottom would encourage air flow, in which case this system would never dry the filament out. ...

I have used Taulman's bucket idea, and currently have one roll each of T-Lyne and PCTPE in it. OTOH, I haven't printed with either in several months, so I hope they're still good. I used a few different bulbs I had on hand, installed in a small aluminum reflector clamp light from Home Depot. I also ...

I haven't looked into it much, but a quick glance at two of my gcode files implies that it appears if using the dual extrusion wizard.

While I don't pretend to know the exact cause for your issue, I ran into a similar problem recently. All my jobs had been printing well (other than adjusting print quality settings). I modified a job in Simplify3D to have 3 processes instead of one, and all of a sudden it's printing in mid-air. Look...

I've been working with the SeeMeCNC dual extrusion Y, a Max V2 with accelerometer and running master 20170328. All my testing until tonight has been with extruder 0, which is an EZRStruder fed by a geared stepper. Using kraeger's steps elsewhere here, I got a pretty good set of extrudes & retrac...

Thanks, Eric! I was just coming back here to update my post that I had found it, via an M115 command. However, I wouldn't have know about the other locations without your post.

Thanks for the quick reply!

I cannot figure out where in the firmware the printer name (e.g. "Rostock Max V2") is entered. I would like to be able to change it, as I want to make it obvious to myself if I'm running a dev or master version. I see where the version & date are entered, but they're fixed fields. I tr...

**Post deleted** I see there's a Dozuki guide for this now.

While I didn't trim my fan, I did trim two of the little nubs used as screw guides coming up from the bottom of the effector (2 others are visible to the left of the right-side ball joint in this picture. My 713Maker mount has never seemed to fit quite right with the E3D V6, and in fact I added 2 fl...

I've used 3Deez on glass with good luck. It's available on Amazon, and one tub lasts a long time.

Yeah, baby! Nice work!

Thank you, David. I had assumed it was so, but wanted to make sure.

Probably a dumb question, but it just occurred to me: can the Duet wifi accommodate both a PT100 and a thermistor (e.g. from the bed)? I would think so.

Thanks for the information. I likely will just use the E3D version, but I'll keep looking around a bit. I think a big clue is E3D's comment that the Ultimaker 2 uses a PT100 as standard, and the E3D is a direct replacement. As far as the heater block goes, I'm getting the impression that they used t...

I realize higher triangle count = potentially higher quality. What I'm saying is that there's a very good chance that model is far more detailed than the printer is capable of reproducing, or at least what the end-user is capable of discerning. There are likely surfaces which can benefit from a dens...

It seems as the E3D PT100 sensor & board are the most common and readily available combination. However, since the Duet Wifi uses it's own daughter card to interface to a PT100 sensor, there's no use in buying an E3D board. In the same vein, is there a recommendation for a non-E3D PT100 sensor? ...

First off, I'll confess I don't have an answer or suggestion for OctoPrint, but I have to really question such a large STL file, especially on a desktop FFF machine. I've been to a couple classes relating to exporting STLs for printing, and both recommended keeping file size below 18-20 MB. I don't ...

1 is still available.