Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I am glad to see someone, anyone, is defending what is right and just in this world. To see other people claim that anyone, regardless of circumstances, can pull themselves up by their bootstraps or some such nonsense is irritating. The ramblings of old, white men who had all of the advantages of so...

Yeah, this is making me feel very uncomfortable reading all of this. I have the sense that a lot of you do not know what it is like to live with a low-paying job, and how impossible it is to "just get yourself educated and get a better job." To be frank, I'm really embarrassed to be among...

KAS wrote:Thats total Frame, slide and barrel.

Yea, I used to have a G19 and it was the midsize 9mm. Just a "hand scale" estimate would put the slide and barrel at way more mass than the frame when field stripped, at least a third more.

I went ahead and made up a second one with the "Windex trick", using the .030" material from Amazon, matte side up. I CNC'd the circle on my mill. This glass has PEI on one side, Kapton on the other. Looks like Kapton is "sooo last year" at this point, so it'll probably be ...

In addition to sanding, you also want to clean the surface of the PEI with isopropyl alcohol and don't touch it with your fingers after cleaning! Definitely! I have alcohol wipes that I run over the sheet with right before a print (before heating) and I also plan on cleaning it extra good after I s...

Sanding makes a big difference. Proper first layer also makes a very big difference. 125% width - are you talking about 125% extrusion multiplier or 125% extrusion width stacked at 100%? If you're over extruding on the first layer, you'll have issues. If you want a .2mm thick layer you should get a...

I'm having a bit of trouble with the PEI surface and my ABS. I use MG-94 ABS pellets that I extrude myself from a Filastruder. The PEI I purchased was the .03 inch sheet and I attached it with the tape as per the instructions from the stickied thread. I put the matte side up and I have attached it d...

Hi, I'm looking for a way to just get the part of the extruder in between the nozzle and the insulator. I'm looking to see if I can find an someone's extra I could buy or a 3rd party one that is compatible. I don't want to have to buy a whole new extruder kit. If anyone has an extra one, I could pa...

E3D just introduced the E3D-Lite6 model of hotend for £21.50 (~$24). It supports 1.75mm bowden and direct and fits in any E3Dv6 mount. It supports up to 245 deg C print temps as well. Perhaps it's time for SeeMeCNC to drop the inferior PEEK hotend for this should the price allow for it? This one can...

If you need a coating on it then it is not really doing its purpose. I agree, that's why I am wondering if a coating is necessary. I cannot accept that some people are using Buildtak without knowing more facts. Everyone on other forums I've heard use it loves it. mhackney wrote a review about a yea...

Again, I'm going to harp on using dead time control for the default method from the factory manual, but no one seems to use it other than me. PID tuning takes a long time and is not optimal for our use case. Dead time control can be programmed into the firmware from the factory (or download, in our ...

The end code should be something more like this (I removed useless stuff): M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G28 ;home everything M84 ;steppers off This is what I use: M104 S0 ; turn off temperature M140 S0 ; turn off bed temperature M107 ; Turn off fan G92...

626Pilot wrote:I was talking about the amber stuff on the print surface.

Oh, heh, no. I have a copper heat spreader plate below the glass that gives a 2-3 deg C even heat surface over the whole bed. I use hairspray for adhesion, although it's not working as well lately due to some extrusion issues.

What extruder design are you using? Or did you buy a commercial one? I'm using a Filastruder+Filawinder combo, but I've only made a few kilos of my own stuff so far, all sans colorant. The silver stuff was Hatchbox, which I used extensively and never had trouble prior to this. I'm still working on ...

Not all filament is created equal. Just because it requires a higher print temp doesn't mean its shit. No, I've tried a variety of temperatures now from 215-240 on that stuff and it simply isn't good quality. I don't know if it is due to material or poor diameter tolarace, but it isn't working very...

626Pilot wrote:Q*Bert will be happy about that video. Is that polyetherimide?

Nope, MG94 ABS I extruded myself.

McSlappy wrote:Sounds pretty quiet - you have dampers on that?

Yea, I have the Trick Laser ones made from cork-like materials.

JFettig wrote:Your nozzle temp is way too low to print that fast. You need around 240-250 for that material printing that fast

240-250 for 70mm/s? No way. I've been using 220 for a very long time at that speed and it works AOK unless the filament is shit.

You should just use dead time control , it's easier, faster to tune, and just as good as PID. I honestly don't even know why the Rostock manual even recommends PID tuning any longer. Dead time is incredibly easy! Heck, with most hotends you can use 2-3 seconds for the dead time number and you're goo...

Out of curiosity, what was your nozzle temp and print speed on the silver part? I was printing at 70mm/s with 220-230 deg C (I tested a few settings) and it was horrible no matter what. I didn't have this type of trouble with the last Hatchbox ABS I used, but that was white and this was silver. I h...

Nylocke wrote:210 print speed... whaaa...

I posted a video in another thread, although it still has a bit to upload and process.

I guess an Arduio Mega 2560 compatible board is perfectly fine for fast print rates :)

I guess I was wrong above about 150mm/s print speed being the max for decent FDM printing.

Well, I did it at ~20mm/s for the first layer, 70mm/s for a few more layers, 140mm/s for yet some more, and then finished the last 85% of the print at 210mm/s. I increased the hotend temp by 20 deg C to 240 deg C to avoid extrusion issues, and it worked pretty well! I was using virgin MG94 ABS extru...

Well, the problem was solved, it turns out the filament I was using was, for some reason, extremely bad. It was Hatchbox Silver ABS and I realized after a while (and switching to vigin MG94 ABS extruded on my own) that it was very bad quality ABS that was causing the issues for some reason. I don't ...

Edit : Solved below. It wasn't the settings at all. So I switched to the volumetric method for extrusion because I plan on building a filament diameter measuring device to install on the input to the printer. Using volumetric would make it easier to send the printer the proper commands to adjust ba...

>400mm/s I just have to say that while I watch my printer head move at 175mm/s for travel moves I cannot possibly imagine a printer extruding plastic properly at 400mm/s so that it actually sticks to anything and looks good. I would guess that extrusion machines are limited, physically, to a certain...