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I could either: - Take my lawnmower to a repair shop, and spend several hours and dozens of dollars getting it fixed - Spend an hour or two finding the particular part I needed online, and wait days or weeks and spend a dozen or more dollars to have it shipped - Spend an hour modeling it, printing i...

With the angled door like that what does your build volume look like now? Can you still get the full 6" of y axis movement with a 6" tall object?

Ah, it was you! Thanks!

Ikea is a good idea. I might have the hardware I need already, but I'll keep it in mind as Ikea is only 20 minutes away from me.

If you're worried about getting the bearings too close, extend the rods outside the front or back and put an additional set of bearings out there, and make the table longer.

Interestingly, I thought the heated inside of e chamber would be an important aspect, but is morning I decided to try it out starting out cold. It was 15C to start with, and the bed and head at the usual temperature. Started the print, closed the box, and let it go. When it was finished the interior...

I finally got mine inside an enclosure made out of 4x8 foot sheet of white bathroom tile I was using for a whiteboard. [img]http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll164/stienman/E5137B4C-02FC-4AC8-8C5A-FFC3D4054501-2773-0000012C5E63255A.jpg[/img] There is a box inside the keeps the electronics separate ...

I like the mendel90 because as long as you cut a nd drill the frame correctly, alignment is nearly perfect. Also minimal parts count. I'd like to tinker with a delta, but I don't know that it has any particular advantages. I'm tempted most by machines with the print bed on z, and the print head on x...

That's a good idea.

Nice fix. Now that I've retention end the x axis, I might have to check my z axis at the top as well.

Fiero2M6 wrote:That part is huge. Awesome! I haven't had the guts to try a print that large yet. How long did it take to print?

It took just under three hours. It was a 0.3mm layer height, and only two perimeters. I too was surprised it printed completely, I honestly expected it to fail halfway through.

If you tension the X axis belt enough, you can pull the carriage apart. If you tension the Y axis at all, or use a heated bed, you will warp the bed due to the leverage on the belt standoffs. Noticing my Y axis needed tensioning, I did a look over of the whole machine and noticed the issue. Really t...

Keep in mind that the temperature across the bed is uneven, depending on air currents in the environment, and how you have it mounted and insulated. Always measure the temperature in the same spot, and make sure there aren't any fans or vents blowing air around the room. I set my bed to 70C for ABS,...

Eventually we'll just have them installed on the ceiling with advanced optical image processing. Just put the build plate on your desk anywhere, tell the robot to print, and it'll track the plate and build the object on top of it. It'll stay out of the way when not in use, pressed up against the cei...

You might have made the same mistake I made. The y axis bars go under, not over, the bars on the front and back of the printer. This causes the bed's belt attachment points to be above the belt path, leading to problems as the bed approaches the limits of its travel. The block solution you present w...

It looks like my kids want to be lego minifigures. So I took a few measurements and used openscad to create a lego hand that would be hollow inside so you could wear it like a glove: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31553 Being large, thin walled, and ABS it delaminated in three places during the bu...

I posted a sped up assembly video in my build thread here:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=793

Which should help you understand how it goes together.

Have you tried a different plastic? I had terrible problems with the first plastic I tried, and when I switched to a different batch everything went smoothly. They were both 3mm ABS plastics, but from different companies with different dyes and, I suspect, different composition.

Have you adjusted the current drivers for the motors on the ramps board? They are adjustable, and it's possible that they are set low enough on yours that adding the extra mass of the heated bed causes it to lose steps on quick reverses. Also, try slowing the whole thing down and see if you still sk...

Yes, all of the blue clamp parts are reamed out so the screw passes easily into and through them without screwing it. Otherwise one would not be able to clamp the two parts together once the thread is set in the blue part.

I didn't show that in the video.

Are all your axis calibrated? When you tell Z to go up 10mm, does it actually move exactly 10mm?

I saw that setting, but I'm worried about adding blobs of extra to prints that don't have this issue, or even different parts of the same print. I suppose I may just have to have separate print settings, but I'll try stiffening the whole assembly first.

When I print a model with many small features, the retract happens very frequently, and the filament thins out in the busiest sections of the model. I can see as the frequent retractions occur that the extruder flexes upward away from the x axis base plate. I retract 2mm, then feed 2mm when it gets ...

I'm slowly ramping my speeds up, but so far am not having any problems. Wha speeds have you been able to get up to and get good prints? I'm now going 120mm/s in slic3r, though I don't know if it's actually getting up that fast, perhaps I'm limited by ramps? Would be interested in typical "fast&...

That seems a bit high, and depending on where you're measuring and the room temperature, other parts could be quite a bit warmer. Trying dropping your temperature ten or twenty degrees and work with that for awhile to see how your prints turn out. I'm printing with the tip of the extruder at 200C an...

You need to put a known good thermometer on the hotend, you can't trust the thermistor without some calibration. Is the Teflon tube brittle or less flexible on the black end than the other end? The Teflon will start to degrade at 250C, which is too hot for either PLA or ABS, but if you're using PLA,...