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One possible "repair" is to also just purchase a 12v or 24v heating cartridge (depending on your power supply setup), and drilling then tapping a small hole to secure the cartridge in one of the existing hotend holes intended for the resistors. This obviously does not increase your printab...

Ok, so I finally took the time to at least give the rear mount a solid remesh to make it print whole. You can still faintly see the encaptured nut slots that I edited into a flat surface. It slices solid on Craftware, Cura, and KiSSlicer, so I imagine it should be manifold enough to slice with any s...

Not to be "that guy", but the dark forum theme has been lost during this maintenance. Understood that it is ongoing, as this is the holiday season, just wanted to report it before somebody else, potentially more hostile than myself, goes off about it.

So I posted in a separate topic how I upgraded my Max V2 to an all-metal kit from Matthew (more well-known as travelphotog here at the forums) at 713Maker, but it took me a while to receive some filament to print a mount for my PanelDue 7i that also went in during the upgrade. For those that haven't...

You can't post that without pictures, man. That's just mean. ;) g. Haha, Gene, you are right as always. It was rude of me, I just wanted to have "the perfect setup" before I posted photos, but isn't the whole fun of this community coming along for the journey of the build? With that in mi...

Guys and gals, the V2 all-metal kit is a real treat. She went together so smoothly, with all the nice tight tolerances one could hope for. I went through the extra process of cleaning and coating all the pieces with a clear gloss spray paint, and she is GORGEOUS! Since I was going through an entire ...

The only way I know of, is to open two separate model files (stl or obj) in Cura, after making sure that in the "Machine Settings" menu, you've changed your settings to reflect 2 extruders. Once that has been done, and both models are loaded onto the virtual platform, right-click on the pl...

What is probably happening is that the edge of your nozzle (on the non-business end) is probably getting hung up on the PTFE insert inside the PEEK heatbreak. Try to carefully align the nozzle so the PTFE slides down into the nozzle and you should be golden. EDIT: I also noted you mentioned you need...

Bought

I had something similar happen, but it turns out my heater cartridge was fine, the Thermistor was failing, and so it kept underreporting temps. This eventually would lead to a Decoupled error being thrown and the hotend shutting off. My stupid mistake would be to turn the printer off, turn it back o...

Could be that one or more of your belts are too loose.

A search of google for the error message brought me to a Stackoverflow page regarding MEGA 2560 boards. There are several points mentioned which could possibly be the cause for this message. The following link lists them: https://stackoverflow.com/revisions/7672ccaf-f3c9-4151-8e81-08adcde9fe35/view-...

The fourth to last line of your post is most likely your issue.

Try Arduino 1.6

If the blue knob is melting from the heat, this sounds more like the current setting you are running on your extruder motor is too high. Try checking your configuration.h of your repetier firmware and look for values similar to the ones mentioned by SeeMe team member, Guanu, in an older post here.

Have you made certain that the hotend has no noticeable play in it? For example, while the hotend is cooled down, can you reach up and see if the hotend has any wobble when you jiggle it?

This could be completely off-base, but if you tinned your wire leads before putting them in the terminal block, don't. This limits the amount of surface area that the terminal block is able to make contact with and can cause what you have experienced. This same issue has happened to at least two oth...

FYI - I cleaned up the amount of ooze during the swap considerably by changing the line: G1 E145 F6000 ; Feed 145mm @ 100mm/s to G1 E1425 F6000 ; Feed 142mm @ 100mm/s I'm still playing with the value to get it "perfect" but it's going pretty well so far. I hope you meant to type "142...

I already have a glass+PEI sheet as my primary surface, but there are microbubbles. I was just thinking to lessen the variation during cal and whatnot, has anyone tried applying it wet? The first time I did it I failed miserably so the second time I just applied it dry and squeegeed it as best I ca...

Qdeathstar wrote:i'm printing a violin right now, but i'd love to print a chello, are you printing that one a stock roma's or a taller version.

I print on a /mostly/ stock RoMax v2. I sliced my cello into four 300mm tall pieces for the main body, so that easily fits within the Rostock's build height.

Not trying to start a pi**ing contest, but one of my cello pieces clocks in at about 76 hours of straight printing.

As far as the Z resolution goes, according to the build guide, an M10 x 2 x 200mm Trapezoidal Lead Screw is used to drive the Z-axis. Your Z resolution will be based on this screw amd your motors ability to microstep low enough to achieve micro turns of the Z-screw. In the likely event you were alre...

Is there a model file for that (or the remixed one) ? I'd like to try a remix on it, but I've been using onshape.com and it doesn't load the stl in a way that I can work with it :/ Does an OBJ work? https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bxa2nWsNU1AUSGFvVnhELXVVd1E Thanks for the obj, sadly, both of tho...

Unplug your endstop switch wires from the RAMBo, bring the carriages low on your towers, then try to home, but shut off the machine before it gets to the switches and see if the behavior still occurs on the rise up. If this solves your behavior problem, it means you are experiencing interference fro...

Did you look in my V3 build thread? It actually starts with the RPi and OctoPrint install and then throughout the thread additional info is posted: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=10836 No, I didnt. I used the posted build instructions as that was what was available when I put it...

Everything that I have always read has pointed toward 24v heating for the bed, leading to either dead-time heating or bangbang, just because of what you mentioned, as well as not wanting to overheat the SSR from constant switching.