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I use a 330mm diameter x 5mm thick aluminium bed plate with a 300mm diameter AC mains heater on my delta, and that works well. So a 280mm diameter heater should work for you, as long as the bed plate is thick enough to spread the heat well. My delta uses a 24V 5A PSU. With the bed heater being AC m...

Ok. I'll shoot them an email and find out for sure. I already got a response from Keenovo on the custom heat pad. $76 for a 305mm pad with through holes for the screws (and a built in PT-100 sensor). Actually not too bad at all, though it would probably take 6-8 weeks to get. Could probably make do ...

Ok... Realized I screwed up on the size of my stepper motor order. Ones I grabbed through Filastruder were 48mm and the ones I have are 42mm! Doh! Are the ones listed in the Store (for the 3.2) the same size as the ones on the V2? Edit:NVM just realized the 48mm was referring to depth... Ones I orde...

I'd start with the v4 configuration and tweak from there. Also, you're aware that SeeMeCNC offers an aluminum heat bed upgrade for the v3, right? It may fit the v2 as well. You can't beat a 110v AC heater. :) g. Ok. I wasn't sure how close the V4 would be in terms of hardware, but I guess its right...

Ok... So a couple more questions. I thought while I was waiting for parts to arrive, I'd get the DC42 Reprap firmware setup (for the most part) and Ready to go. Here's the page I found with the latest version (as far as I can tell). https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases Do I need a set of ...

Been doing a ton of reading the last few days, and that gave me the final push. So... Thanks, I guess? lol ;) I grabbed a set of 340.5mm Carbon Fiber Ball cup arms from SeeMeCNC. I have my reservations about trying to print large and or do a decent bed probe with Magnetic arms, M Hackney seems to li...

Not sure if this is the best board to ask this question, but I figured it might be the board most likely to get a response. (feel free to move it elsewhere if needed) :) So... I'm looking to do an upgrade to my V2 (July of 2014) Frankenstein and I'm just curious what route would be best long term. M...

That makes a lot of sense and is kind of what I was wondering about. In short, the only really downside for adding longer arms (in my case) would be the loss of z height, which honestly isn't that big of a deal for me. I'm currently at about 355mm total height. I'm looking to add a Volcano block (an...

So... I've got a set of 290mm arms currently on heavily modded V2. With a few planned tweaks, I think I can push my max print are right to 304mm before the arms themselves start to brush the towers/belts. Is there any appreciable reason I would want to upgrade to, say, seemecnc's 340mm carbon fiber ...

What's weird is that I've been using it very successfully with a Geckotek plate for over a year. The coating got worn out so I scraped it off and was going to replace it, but they changed their whole deal to a new material and but a Premium price on it... So I figured I'd go PEI since my new prusa m...

Uggghhh... threw the glass bed on quick and that calibrated fine. Don't tell me the Accelerometer board has a problem with PEI? Worthless if that's the case.

[img]https://pa1.narvii.com/6516/78a57a0aec4 ... c70_hq.gif[/img]

SKIP_M109_IF_WITHIN is set to 5. so I'm really guessing this isn't the case. When it came down from 240 to 220 I want to say it started at around 225. (Can't remember offhand). I've tried manually adding the m109 to the gcode in the slicer and nothing. This is a new out of the blue problem. I've tri...

Weirder yet... Swapped filament to a roll I know I had dialed in well. Had the hotend preheated @ 240. Started the print, which called for a first layer @ 220. The Bed heats and then the printer waits as the hotend reduces the 20 degrees before printing. So... if the hotend is under temp it just sta...

So, My printer started acting goofy tonight. Sliced up a file in Slic3r and shot it off to Octoprint like I've done many times before. The bed heated up to temp and then the print started... before the hotend started heating! I have made some changes to my printer within the last week. I added a tit...

Thanks for the advice! I've got some PETG from maker geeks I've been looking for an excuse to try. Now I have one. :-) I get how the mount attaches to the extruder. I was more curious about how and where the mount attached to the frame. So, basically I would just remove the melamine mount for the EZ...

I got my Gecko Tek plate and after getting used to a few things I'm loving it. It didn't want to stick PLA as nice as tape on glass with no heat and I was getting some warping. It got worse at around 40-45 degrees, but has been bullet proof at 60-65 degrees. Only thing I don't like is that occasiona...

So I'm considering upgrading to a bondtech extruder, but I'm not 100% on what parts I need to get. Which one of these ( http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/extruders/bondtech-qr-175-universal.html ) should I be getting (as far as the cable setup)? What about the adapters and mount? I'll probably print my own...

I'm using 10-15 mm/sec on the retract at 1.7-1.8mm. Also set the priming in cura to 25mm/sec. I just printed a large 15 hour print with several large holes in it and the stringing was super minimal. Some very fine cobwebs, but I could brush them off by hand very easily with no issues. Even better, w...

Well, I'm still dialing it in, but so far I'm through an almost entire roll and still really impressed! I get a bit of light stringing here or there, but it entirely goes away with a light brush of the hand. It's also really tough stuff! Even with 120 grit sandpaper on a 5 inch orbital sander it tak...

We'll see how I like it. I get what your saying, but understand that my glass isn't what I would call flat and seems to warp pretty good at a few spots. putting down a .25mm layer it will touch at some spots and be as much as .35mm thick at others. I'm hoping the geckotek will be a bit flatter than ...

Looked up Die Swell and it makes sense. Think I'm just going to split the difference between measured and stated nozzle width and call it a day. :D On your second point, I know all too well! lol :mrgreen: Too that end, what is typically considered "good enough" when it comes to the auto ca...

Weird. They show up on mine... Oh well, changed the pics to direct links that should work.

Let me know if you still have trouble seeing them and I'll try something else.

Use this guide right here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10081 You almost certainly need to adjust the length of the Diagonal rod in your eeprom settings if it is off by that much. I'd also suggest upgrading to the injection molded carriages and ball cup arms. They're nod needed...

I'm currently running an e3d V6 hotend with a .4mm nozzle, or at least I was till last night (see Here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=11936 ). Up until that major muck up on my part I was noticing that with the .4mm nozzle extruded filament had a measured width of about .46-.47m...

So last night I was happily testing my new Raptor PLA from Maker Geeks and printing away at single wall boxes while trying to nail down the extrusion multiplier. I had it within .05mm of where I wanted it and wait a final tweak in cura 2.5. When I ran the gcode (4-5 minutes or less since the last pr...