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Screws are fiddly in my opinion, with the eeprom you mostly use an excell sheet to do the calculations and input to software.

Check that the effector platform connections were not damaged.

Besides that i cannot think of anything.


Btw, i prefer to use the eeprom instead of fiddling with the screws.

Keep us posted.

Our resident Dr Fonzworth should chime in any moment.

Looks awesome!!

Welcome.

Feel free to ask anything.

What do you wish to add to the GUI?

What do you hope to accomplish? There have been modifications to the GUI on the LCD. And you can tweak the firmware to do a bit more calculations. But without investing a significant amount of time in my opinion progress will be a bit slow. And in the end you will only discover that an arduino (8bit...

Luckily for me it started doing it when i inserted it lazily so it was an easy catch.

Your filament has water in it.

Mine did that once when the sd card was not properly inserted.

I have used ookuma filament that was called snow white.

It was white, not sure i can describe the tone of white.


It worked well.


Afaik they ship internationally.

Aflac wrote:So after some judicious multi meter use I discovered I'm an idiot.

This happens to me more than i like to admit.

Oh dear! In matter control you select your model and the layer view and hit generate. The you use the bars on the right and bottom to view the different layers in 2d or 3d as you like. The printer does not even need to be connected. Now you can fiddle with the settings all you want and observe the c...

My psu also does click (24v) i think it is for different power modes or the fan. Has not bothered me so i did not investigate further as it has done it since day one.

Sounds like a relay.

tpo - bottom layers and perimitres is what you should be adjustin, and then infill.

if you modeled it empty then you may need support aswell.

did you have a look at the gcode viewer (layer view) to see it is actually doing what you want?

I have bought A LOT of stuff from dx. It takes about 20-45 days to arrive here. Mostly i have been content. But I have not used them for several years now, they upped the prices after the got very popular. Later i switched to banggood which is basically the same thing as the old dealextreme. Now my ...

you are actually fooling the PID controller by setting the max values after the tuning.

A PID controller theoretically controls how fast the bed heats up, how much it overshoots while heating up and how much it oscillates while holding temperature.

You can set the max output of the pid controller.

If it is set to say 200 then you will not be seeing 12v at the output of the board.

This setting is not particularly usefull when you are powering the bed with 12v but it comes in handy when you have a 20v power supply connected to it.

Check the motors aswell when i first went over my printer after a year i noticed that the motors were loose. Looks like the melamine had compressed and created some slack.

I was thinking of the same thing two days ago. I have a lot of <1Amp stepdown regulators that cost 1 usd each. From what i read (and please do not take my word for it) the fans are the only components that need the 12V. adsjusting fan speed may be a tad tricky, but again a pwm limit coul solve its i...

You fiddled with the motors and they are tight right? Put a little spot of nail varnish/paint between the shaft and gear. That way you can see if there is anything loose. When i had this problem it was my joints binding. (Aluminium joints with axels) i solved that by putting molybdeniumdisulphide ba...